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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Noticing a slight vibration at highway speed, mostly around 50 - 55 MPH, then seems to dissipate around 60 - 70 MPH, appears to be coming from the drive train, somewhere, replaced the universal joints (appeared original, 160,00 miles), but it is still there. Inspected the driveshaft where it connects to the rear axle, did not notice any play, but do appear to notice some play where the driveshaft / yoke goes into the transmission, not a lot of play, but figuring I should not notice any. Not sure why this happened to this 47,000 + mile transmission, but it does appear to have some play. It appears the tail piece on the transmission is replaceable, curious as to whether there are bushing(s) or bearing(s) in the tailpiece and if they are easily replaceable, and if play is common in a 32R transmission. The old 32R transmission I replaced several months back appeared to have some play in the tail piece as well.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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The shake may not be from 'play', but from binding needle bearings inside the u-joint. The really only effective way to check for this is to mark the rear yoke to the prop shaft (to reassemble it the same way it was).
Chock the wheels & remove the prop shaft from the vehicle. Have a drain pan under the tailshaft housing to catch any spill. If the vehicle is parked level, it should be much, if at all.

Articulate both the u-joints N-S & E-W to check for any binding or hard spots. A small square counter-weight may be spot welded to the tube. Make sure that they are there. Check the tube for any dents or damage.
Grease fittings or not still can fail. It's important not to mix grease types.


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The universal joints are brand new, MOOG, actually replaced then twice, both new, thinking I may have not installed them right the first time (needle out of place) .... when I replaced the old u-joints I did not see any obvious signs of damage, maybe slightly evenly wore around the stubs where the needles ride, hard to tell, and hard to tell if they were original, the clips made me think so, but hard to imagine getting 160,000 miles out of the originals u-joints especially if they were non-greaseable .... now, go to parts guy sold me the wrong u-joints, so I had to go get the correct ones, and not sure I may have mixed up the driveshaft front to rear, but I don't think I did, it appears as if the front to rear of the driveshaft is the same and inter-changeable, but not sure when the driveshaft is balanced if the yoke is attached or not, therefore front to back may matter .... there definitely does appear to be slight play where the yoke enters the rear of the transmission.

The vibration seems to have come from nowhere .... what happened was I went to the neighborhood tire place to swap my 2 front tires onto some Dodge chrome rims I got from pull a part several weeks back, and told the to balance the tires, afterwards I was catching a vibration, I eventually removed the tires and took them to NTB, said they were way out of balance, apparently the yahoos never balanced the tires, or whatever. So I couldn't tell if the u-joints were bad or not, and drove the van to Flint and back with that vibration, twice, second time after the tires were balanced correctly.

I was going to swap the driveshaft from my '02, just to see if it was the driveshaft, but the mounting to the rear axle is different.
 

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Noticing a slight vibration at highway speed, mostly around 50 - 55 MPH, then seems to dissipate around 60 - 70 MPH, appears to be coming from the drive train, somewhere, replaced the universal joints (appeared original, 160,00 miles), but it is still there. Inspected the driveshaft where it connects to the rear axle, did not notice any play, but do appear to notice some play where the driveshaft / yoke goes into the transmission, not a lot of play, but figuring I should not notice any. Not sure why this happened to this 47,000 + mile transmission, but it does appear to have some play. It appears the tail piece on the transmission is replaceable, curious as to whether there are bushing(s) or bearing(s) in the tailpiece and if they are easily replaceable, and if play is common in a 32R transmission. The old 32R transmission I replaced several months back appeared to have some play in the tail piece as well.

Any help would be appreciated.
Most likely it will have a bushing in there but if the seal is not leaking the bushing is not that bad. Even new ones seem to have some play.

If that vibration is more like a resonance, stick a pry bar in the trans mount and pry up with care. If the mount hasn't been replaced you will likely have quite a bit of movement that can lead to resonance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Most likely it will have a bushing in there but if the seal is not leaking the bushing is not that bad. Even new ones seem to have some play.

If that vibration is more like a resonance, stick a pry bar in the trans mount and pry up with care. If the mount hasn't been replaced you will likely have quite a bit of movement that can lead to resonance.
It does not appear the seal is leaking, and I replaced that seal several months back when I installed the transmission, I also replaced the transmission mount at that time as well, but I am guessing the engine mounts are original, not sure if that would resonate ... when I move the tail piece it does seem to move quite a bit, but then I have nothing to base that amount of movement on, not sure if that movement is from the engine mounts being worn.
 

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Disconnect the propeller shaft from the rear yoke, turn it 180º & reattach it.

If that wasn't it:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Disconnect the propeller shaft from the rear yoke, turn it 180º & reattach it.

If that wasn't it:
Thanks, I'll try that first, if not that, my mechanic friend it can be out 180 at the front too, so I'll try that second, if not that, I stopped by a shop to check / balance the shaft, but they are 3 - 4 days out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Disconnect the propeller shaft from the rear yoke, turn it 180º & reattach it.

If that wasn't it:
Removed the driveshaft to have it balanced, apparently it is somehow bent / damaged and unable to be balanced and needs to be re-tubed, how comfortable would you be having a driveshft re-tubed ?

Personally I have a phobia of things that spin really fast flying apart ...
 

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A driveshaft rebuilder should be able to do a competent job. They have the materials & tools to do a proper rebuild. Driveshafts come in all different shapes & sizes, so an old-school, conventional shaft, like yours should be no problem.
Look up a local shop and give them a call.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
A driveshaft rebuilder should be able to do a competent job. They have the materials & tools to do a proper rebuild. Driveshafts come in all different shapes & sizes, so an old-school, conventional shaft, like yours should be no problem.
Look up a local shop and give them a call.
The shop I had try to balance the driveshaft is going to re-tube it for me, actually, I picked up another driveshaft off an '03 from Pull A Part for $21.00 so the van will not be out of commission for several days, they are going to re-tube that one.
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I did flip the driveshaft 180 at the rear, and it did vibrate less, figuring that was good, I flipped it 180 at the front, didn't notice much of a difference, so then I flipped it 180 at the rear again, to try that combination, not much of a difference, so I flipped it back at the rear again.

Then, I went and snagged the driveshaft off the 47,000 mile van (pictured on left next to the current driveshaft), figuring OEM non welded would be better than welded.
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but didn't notice until I went to install the u-joints that it had a crack in it, wasn't expecting that.
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that's when I went to Pull A Part ... in the mean time, since the yoke was removed from the current driveshaft when they tried to balance it, figured I would flip the driveshaft front to rear, hard pressed to feel a vibration that way, go figure, but when I flipped it 180 at the rear for even less, very noticeable vibration, so then I flipped it back .... so here we are, another long drawn out drama ... pick up the re-tubed driveshaft next week. ...

Apparently, the current driveshaft is supposedly not original to the van, because the current driveshaft u-joints all have inner clips, the original u-joints call for outer clips in the front, and outer and inner clips in the rear ... so go to parts guy did sell me the correct u-joints, originally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Picked up the re-tubed driveshaft earlier today, the place went ahead and gave me new end pieces, no charge ... $250 total, not too bad, IMO. I thought they welded the driveshaft by hand, but it looks as if they ran it through a machine ..... now to install it.
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... are you supposed to paint this thing ? I wasn't planning in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Installed the re-tubed driveshaft yesterday evening .... had a very noticeable vibration afterwards, then I remembered to flip the driveshaft at the rear axle, so I did .... vibrating less, but it is still vibrating none the less, most noticeable between 45 - 55 MPH, at other speeds can not even really notice a vibration, pretty sure it is in the drive train, somewhere .... if I get a chance I will flip the driveshaft front to back, and see if that makes a difference ... wonder if they balanced the shaft properly, or if there is an issue someplace else, wonder if it can be the front engine mounts causing a resonance ?

On a more positive note ... was tightening the last of the 4 bolts that hold in place the clamps for the rear universal joint when I felt it SNAP, broke the bolt going into the rear axle, or, at least partially broke the bolt .... was able to un-thread and remove the bolt, intact, when is the first and last time in history that ever happened ? At least to me anyhow ....
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... luckily there was a Home Depot open until 10 o'clock so I was able to pick up a few 3/4" - 1/4"- 28 bolts ... but I would rather have the OEM bolts, does anybody happen to know the part number for these bolts or where I can find them ?

I really need to address my phobia of spinning things flying apart .. I am quite sure that 1/4" bolt did not need to be that tight ....
 

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Mopar part # is 6029562. Dorman also makes a strap kit.
Replace all 4. Torque to 170 in-lbs (19 Nm).
 
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