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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
darkcougarkat said:
I was fortunate to get a complete wiring harness from a 89 omni, I need to replace the fuel tank anyways due to some heavy rust so im just going to get the 89 tank to go with it.

Its actually coming together quite well, I just have not put alot of time into it lately
Update:

Completed the dash wiring, I left most of the stuff unmounted until i actually get a battery on it.. just on the off chance i messed something up.

It looks like I just need to swap out the fuel tank and run the power wires and the backend should be done. I think beyond that i just have heater hoses and it should be just about ready to go. my goal is to have it up by the end of the month.. at least at this point im on track for it. just need to wait a few more days for the fuel tank to come in

*edit: scratch that, i forgot i needed a new EGR tube and looking at it rear E-brake cabling...damn new england sometimes with its plentiful rust abilities..
 

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darkcougarkat said:
Update:

Completed the dash wiring, I left most of the stuff unmounted until i actually get a battery on it.. just on the off chance i messed something up.

It looks like I just need to swap out the fuel tank and run the power wires and the backend should be done. I think beyond that i just have heater hoses and it should be just about ready to go. my goal is to have it up by the end of the month.. at least at this point im on track for it. just need to wait a few more days for the fuel tank to come in

*edit: scratch that, i forgot i needed a new EGR tube and looking at it rear E-brake cabling...damn new england sometimes with its plentiful rust abilities..
Youll need to run a return fuel line from the fuel pressure regulator on the engine to the fuel pump return fitting on the tank. Depending on the pump and tank type, the return line might go right into the pump, or it might go to a fitting on the sending unit. Check out the LeBaron to see how they did it. My 87 LeBaron had the return going into the sender unit fitting and it just passed through to a reservoir cup that the fuel pump pickup sock rested in.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Quick update while i breathe clean air for a while...

Happily i finished up the wiring and lines and after about 25 mins of priming the oil pump, I am very happy to say it fired up quite nicely!

It took a few extra days due to the new fuel tank not being the exact same size, after a "adjustment" to the edges to fit we are good to go.

I'll have pics once i clean up everything, with parts everywhere and the like.. it looks quite awful.

Thank you all for your input on this, I may have other questions as i finish reassembly of everything but i really do appreciate it
 

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Awesome! Congrats on a job well done.
 

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To All: Many of you have responded to my posts on various subjects, but this is the first I have seen dealing with a situation I am working with.

I was glad to see this post on a transplant similar to my situation. I have a question or two.

First, if the 2.2 Holley carb and manifold is mounted on the 2.5 engine, will the pedal linkage line up correctly?? Bolt up correctly??

I have been trying to put a 2.2 into each of my two Caravans. But cannot find the 2.2 with the carburetor. If I can find the carb setup and manifold, what else will I need??

Wiring harness from the donor vehicle. That special air cleaner assembly?? Engine computer?

Looking forward to your replies, as I am anxious to get done before the band weather REALLY sets in. Thanks very much. Oh, I have access to many 2.2 FI and 2.5 FI engines in AZ, where I am for the next several weeks.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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The 2.5L was always EFI. The head ports are a different shape than the carburetted head ports to make room for the injector spray. The throttle body cable may reach a carburetor, but EFI runs so much better than a carburetor. I would wany yo keep the EFI.
You may still need a carburetted donor vehicle for throttle hardware, linkage, fuel lines and wiring, etc. and it is a violation of federal EPA/state emissions rules here to perform tampering like this.
 

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ImperialCrown said:
The 2.5L was always EFI. The head ports are a different shape than the carburetted head ports to make room for the injector spray. The throttle body cable may reach a carburetor, but EFI runs so much better than a carburetor. I would wany yo keep the EFI.
You may still need a carburetted donor vehicle for throttle hardware, linkage, fuel lines and wiring, etc. and it is a violation of federal EPA/state emissions rules here to perform tampering like this.
I am not aware that the 2.2 carb manifold won't mat with the 2.5 head.2.2 and 2.5 heads are exactly the same ( I thought ). There is a user in this form who has done this successfully.

It seems all Chrysler vehicles of the 80's are getting extreme;ly hard to find. I live in the West and they are as rare as hen's teeth. It's getting hard to find 2.5 FI cars anymore. Making the transition from a 2.6 to a 2.5 is a major project. That would be my preference, but oh, the work and the hunt for stuff.

I shall try and write to the poster about his 2.2 intake carbed to a 2.5 car. Also, a Forum leader here said it can work. More research needed. Thanks, Imperial!
 

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The manifolds will bolt on as the stud spacings are the same, it's just that the port shapes are different.
It may run OK as long as there are no vacuum leaks, it just may not mate up very well port-wise.
 

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ImperialCrown said:
The manifolds will bolt on as the stud spacings are the same, it's just that the port shapes are different.
It may run OK as long as there are no vacuum leaks, it just may not mate up very well port-wise.
OK, thank for the explanation. I'll let you know what happens!
 
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