2.5l 4cyl non turbo
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Not to my knowledge. I believe the 2.5's were all fuel injected throttle Body's. You can however replace the throttle body with a carb. I don't know all the details but you'll need a intake and distributer from a carbeurated 2.2. I'm not 100% sure about exactly which ones you'll need but I'm sure some one on here will chime in with the correct information.
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All Chrysler products since 1973 have had electronic ignition. You would have to adapt a distributor from another 4-cylinder, if possible, for breaker point ignition.
Are you participating in some kind of racing that demands this inferior setup?
Are you participating in some kind of racing that demands this inferior setup?
That's true for the US versions. I believe the Mexican versions were MPI.
As to the original post - no, there were not any 2.5L 4 cylinder engines with a points ignition system.
Like Bob posted, why would you want such an antiquated set up?
The reason that I asked the questions about the point system and the different sensors ( fault codes ) is because since I have had this car, I've had starting issues and was trying to find a solution to my problems. Just racing basic circle track aspahlt racing. Thanks for all your help.
Why not just trouble shoot the problems? What sort of problems are you having?
Bob Lincoln is well versed in problems related to the 2.2/2.5's and can probably assist you a great deal.
I know some basics, but Bob has a lot more knowledge. It's been a while since I worked on or diagnosed anything on a 2.5. My vehicles have bigger engines - a 5.7L Hemi and a 3.5L V6.
Bob Lincoln is well versed in problems related to the 2.2/2.5's and can probably assist you a great deal.
I know some basics, but Bob has a lot more knowledge. It's been a while since I worked on or diagnosed anything on a 2.5. My vehicles have bigger engines - a 5.7L Hemi and a 3.5L V6.
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What kind of problems are you having? I race oval track on dirt for the past 3 years now. 2.5L with a A523 trans. Car runs great and runs right with the best running Cavaliers at my track. We are only allowed to have Single Cam and 8 valve Engines.
RE: ffstro
What kind of problems are you having? I race oval track on dirt for the past 3 years now. 2.5L with a A523 trans.
It seems to be all electrically related for some reason. Once I replace an item something else goes wrong with the car. At first, I thought I had run out of gas but was told that the fuel pump in the tank was bad and needed to be replaced so I added a inline electronic fuel pump to bypass the one in the tank. Had no fire, then I replaced the fuel filter, coil,plugs, plug wires, relay switches, and battery but still nothing. Then was told it was a starter relay so I replaced it, no fire. I'm just running out of suggestions to what it could be. I'm really thinking about adding " insurance " to my race car and letting it burn to the car but I have over $2500 in the car now and all of that would be a loss!
What kind of problems are you having? I race oval track on dirt for the past 3 years now. 2.5L with a A523 trans.
It seems to be all electrically related for some reason. Once I replace an item something else goes wrong with the car. At first, I thought I had run out of gas but was told that the fuel pump in the tank was bad and needed to be replaced so I added a inline electronic fuel pump to bypass the one in the tank. Had no fire, then I replaced the fuel filter, coil,plugs, plug wires, relay switches, and battery but still nothing. Then was told it was a starter relay so I replaced it, no fire. I'm just running out of suggestions to what it could be. I'm really thinking about adding " insurance " to my race car and letting it burn to the car but I have over $2500 in the car now and all of that would be a loss!
Stop throwing money around! Breathe.... in. Good. Now out. In.... out. SLLOWWLLY. You need to go through this in order. 1st things 1st. Do you have spark?
Thanks for the gesture! 1) No spark.
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OK. Check fault codes first, and tell us what you get. And does it crank normally?
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Bob, you got this one, and to Rob Burns, welcome to the forum, now is a great time to actually learn how to trouble-shoot vice listen to the competition for advice.
Power to distributor, if not, backtrack, if yes, no spark means bad hall effect in the distributor, or coil, so verify your changed coil is good, but sounds like it may be the hall effect.
Power to distributor, if not, backtrack, if yes, no spark means bad hall effect in the distributor, or coil, so verify your changed coil is good, but sounds like it may be the hall effect.
I
[quote name='Rob Burns' timestamp='1342138476' post='11277574']
Thanks for the gesture! 1) No spark.
[/quote]
For the record, my fifty cents is on bad hall effect. Best of luck Rob!
[quote name='Rob Burns' timestamp='1342138476' post='11277574']
Thanks for the gesture! 1) No spark.
[/quote]
I have to go to work, wont be home until sometime after 8AM tomorrow. You've found a great bunch. Guru's..... they will have you straightened out in no time.
For the record, my fifty cents is on bad hall effect. Best of luck Rob!
It might. I didn't pick up on that at first, but that is a very good point. I know the in-tank fuel pumps are expensive compared to a generic in-line pump, but I think his problem may be with the fuel pump/ASD relay.
I really don't think it's the hall effect. I've never known one to fail so bad you couldn't at least start the engine. They usually just overheat to the point they fail. Once the hall effect cools down (about 15 min), the engine will fire right back up. At least, that's been my experience.
Thank you all the for the suggestion on the hall effect! First off, I did exactly what Bob suggested and my results were on the code faults a 33. Which by my ( new book ) is a air conditioning cutout relay circuit fault. Can someone else tell me what they have for a code 33 ? And it does crank normally. Still no spark, but I have fuel were I didn't before after I changed the line. Thanks everyone for your help, Rob.
Just for the record, I've replaced the ASD/ fuel pump relay and have no problem getting fuel to the throttle body.
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What year car is this? Do you have a relay box, or metal-can relays mounted to the fenderwell?
You can jumper the ASD relay to force the ignition and fuel pump to stay on, just for testing purposes.
You can jumper the ASD relay to force the ignition and fuel pump to stay on, just for testing purposes.
Hi Bob, It's a 90' . I have seperate relay switches under the hood by the drivers side strut. No box or metal-can relays. When I first start the car the fuel pump kicks on immediately. The second time I crank the car it also kicks on but on the third try I have nothing. That's why I ran a electronic fuel pump.
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OK, that's an indication that the ASD relay is definitely opening. It gives you two tries, and if it doesn't see a signal from the Hall effect pickup in the distributor, it won't run the fuel pump again until it does see a signal (or if you turn key to OFF and start the cycle again).
You can remove that add-on fuel pump, it was not the cause.
Two likely causes - timing belt has broken, or Hall effect pickup is bad. You can take the cap off the distributor and crank the engine, see if the rotor turns. If it does, replace the Hall effect pickup. If it doesn't turn, it's the timing belt. But check the round connector on its wiring harness first, make sure connection is clean and snug.
You may have counted the pulses wrong in getting that code 33. Sometimes it can be difficult to judge the length of the pause between codes and between the two digits of the code. Normally you get code 55 at the end, and often code 12 to begin with.
You can remove that add-on fuel pump, it was not the cause.
Two likely causes - timing belt has broken, or Hall effect pickup is bad. You can take the cap off the distributor and crank the engine, see if the rotor turns. If it does, replace the Hall effect pickup. If it doesn't turn, it's the timing belt. But check the round connector on its wiring harness first, make sure connection is clean and snug.
You may have counted the pulses wrong in getting that code 33. Sometimes it can be difficult to judge the length of the pause between codes and between the two digits of the code. Normally you get code 55 at the end, and often code 12 to begin with.
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