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You should always get code 55 at the end, also ("End of Message").
 

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Rob, what Bob L. is saying (I think) is.... you didnt include a code "55" when you told the guys your codes. "55" reports "end of codes" or "no more codes" by not including that, it sounds like you may have counted the codes wrong.

Bob had also asked, and it seems it was missed...... "How does the car turn over?"
Does it crank "fast" like there is no compression and the engine is just freely spinning, or does the engine crank and youre expecting it to fire at any second?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well, it seems that my fault codes must have been wrong because I checked them 3x and came up with a total different series of codes. This was my output - 12,35,21,23,55. I did this on 6/16, 6/17 , 6/18 and had the same fault codes.I also took the distributor cap off and cranked the engine and the rotor button did move. I also took the timing belt cover off to see if the belt was broken ( curious ) and it wasn't. I guess I will order a new hall effect and see what happens. Thanks for everyone's help. I really do appreciate it alot, Rob.
 

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Do one other thing first.

Check the ground cables - there are three. One is at the cylinder head, driver's side front. One is at the driver's side rear corner of the block - it's a ground lug held by a bolt. This is a sensor ground and can often break. The third is a braided ground strap from firewall to the intake manifold on the passenger side. This grounds the fuel injection and could cause a no-start. Make sure they're solid and not intermittent.

If those are all good, then replace the Hall effect.
 
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