[Doug D]

Vehicles are not made to just sit.

Personally I would change the oil & filter. Drain the old coolant, flush the cooling system and put in fresh HOAT coolant. Thoroughly check all belts, hoses, wiring for traces of rodents. Mice love wiring. Check and replace the wiper blades. More than likely the rubber blades are shot. Check the tires for dry rot. If they have dry rot, I recommend replacing them even if the tread is good. If you're not sure, have a tire shop or trusted mechanic give them a look over. Have the battery/charging system checked for good voltage and CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) - Advance Auto and AutoZone will do this for no charge. Recommend replacing plugs/wires and air filter. Check the PCV valve for proper operation.

I'd also put the vehicle on jackstands, remove the wheels and give the brake pads/rotors are good look. Make sure the pads have good meat. At ~85K miles it could be at the end of the OEM brake life or they were just changed 20K-30K miles ago. Safety first.

P0455 - Large vapor leak in the evaporative emmisions system . You'll need to thoroughly check all the evap hoses and canister for leaks

P1494 - Leak detection pump pressure switch or mechanical fault

 

[ImperialCrown]

P1494 does not automatically mean that the LDP has failed. I have found the manifold vacuum supply to it can be insufficient to it because of a cracked rubber hose, etc causing a vacuum leak that can prevent the switch from closing.
The evap leak can also be from cracked, dry rotted rubber emission hoses. Look at your underhood vacuum diagram for system hose routing information and component location. The hose tends to crack at the ends, but not always.
A good visual inspection from front to rear can usually find the problem. The smoke machine can find the ones that are less obvious.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Evap code could just be a loose or defective gas cap.

 

[peterjon1]

A transmission fluid (ATF+4) and filter change couldn't hurt.

 

[marcpilot1]

Man, ya'll know ur stuff! I went out there and checked the wipers first since its dark now. Sure enough, the right one has 3 or 4 long pieces of rubber flopping back and forth with what's left of that wiper. And the left one fell off! So those will get replaced tomorrow in case it rains soon. I guess I'll be doing every single thing else to it ya'll mentioned as well. Including the tranny drain and new filter. Ya nailed the wiper so you gotta be right about the other things in my opinion. Ok, takes care of maintenance issues. Now, can INSTALL get some stuff from Stratus'es or Sebrings to upgrade the boring dash and interior. Radio is like new and sounds fine but its a cassette. No trip computer or nothing else "cool or fancy' in the car. Maybe leather seats from a Stratus will fit? Maybe a six disc cd from a 300m and maybe a auto rearview from a Sebring? Its just so blah in the cab. Oh yea, do u know where that cannister is too? Alright, I got a days workon it tomorrow. Then hopefully I'll have some ideas for the upgrades. Can't thank ya'll enough for this forum. Really. Thanks a lot!

 

[ImperialCrown]

Stratus, Cirrus and Sebring were a different car (JA/JX body). You probably want to look for the LH-body cars like Concorde, 300M and LHS. Even a premium Intrepid would have leather and EVIC/OTIS, etc.
The charcoal canister is in the back on top of the tank. You should have an underhood vacuum diagram of the car showing the component locations and the vacuum/evaporative emission lines.
As Bob stated, the gas cap is the first thing to try for an evaporative emissions leak if it hasn't already been replaced. The fuel vapor recovery system needs to be a closed system with no leaks to the outside air.
The fears about the 2.7L timing chain/water pump failure means that coolant could leak into the oil pan on these. This repair may already have been done if the front of the engine looks like it has been apart before.
Watch for sludge formation from mixing oil/coolant or moisture/rust on the dipstick and under the oil filler cap. The PCV rubber hoses may also have softened/collapsed and rotted. Replace them for strong PCV action.

 

[marcpilot1]

Ok, very extremely informative information. Wow. Now, I have time right now to do these things you advised and after today I will more than likely be right back his evening with couple questions. I will find the charcoal cannister and follow any hoses or rubber and inspect for dry rotting and stuff. The gas cap is fine in my opinion. It looks as new as when car was bought. But never know. I will check a diff cap and see. The pcv valve hoses? This is dumb as can be I'm sure but I wish I knew where tha pcv was and what it looks like. How's that for dumb? Anyway, thanks so much. Am going to work now on as much stuff as I can and will be back periodically and this evening with at least one more question for sure. tHANK YOU very much, Marc-

 

[TWX]

A failed gas cap will not look failed, only a pressure test can tell for sure. They're cheap, and if it's any way questionable, just replace it...

 

[dak4x4]

What kind of oil did you use? I'd only put pure synthetic in 2.7's since they had issues with sludgeing up. The sitting for 2 years is not what to be concerned about since sludge is not made in an idle engine... enjoy the car nevertheless towing insurance is not a bad idea.

 

[marcpilot1]

Yea, towing insurance! Ha! You're exactly right when it comes to these motors. I dont know why I even bought this car. I guess cuz it was cheap and I actually liked the way it drove and the space inside and the looks aren't too too bad. So, I took the 2.7 ltr gamble. You said what kind of oil did I use and to tell you the truth, I haven't changed it yet. Obviously 100% synthetic oil is gonna have to be thrown in there. But what id love to know is- what kind of oil and filter, how often do I change oil after that. And one more very important question, engine flush. Can i flush this motor and should I flush the motor? If so, what type of flush is best for this 2.7? Thanks so much for all ya'lls help!

 

[B10alia]

+1 on keeping on the oil change. I go with 6k on synthetic with just a filter change and top-up at 3k. Overkill, yes, but I still have factory crosshatch on an 18-year-old motor. Changing the oil frequently is good advice for any motor, and where the 2.7 has some sludging issues, it's even better advice. For its displacement, the 2.7 was a very powerful motor, and if you take care of it, it will last you a long time.
EDIT: MAKE SURE ONLY ATF+4 is used in the transmission! Dex/Merc with additives is NOT ACCEPTABLE, and you will ruin your transmission by using the wrong fluid.

 

[marcpilot1]

Yea, gotcha on that transmission atf+4. Thank you very much for that little piece of $3000 information. Def don't wanna tear up tranny by simply using wrong fluid. If its gonna tear up id rather it be because I was having fun driving the crap out of it. But nah, I'm going to do the replacement of trans filter and fluid. So thanks for bringing that up. Now, the synthetic is the ONLY oil you can use in these 2.7's right? Right. So which brand of synthetic and which brand of filter should these 2.7's use? Oh yea, I took the pcv valve off and I shake it and it rattles back n forth. It don't seem like its springing so to speak. And there was oil around the pcv valve. Just a film of it. No big big mess. But def a 2 inch film around where that 90 degree little insert hose goes around the pcv valve. And there gunk in the little 90degree hose. I cleaned the gunk out and cleaned gunk off and around the 84 k miles pcv valve. From there the hose splits into about 3 ways. One to the antifreeze plastic resevoir, one to down under motor somewhere and one short one to valve cover I think. But there's a tube size cannister that all these hoses go to. Does anyone know what that çannister metal looking thing is? From pcv valve to it, then from it to anti freeze resovoir, another going somewhere under motor and third one îs a short one to what looks like a valve cover. Any info woûld help. Any explaining to me, the green horn, would help too. Thanks ya'll very much! Marc-

 

[ImperialCrown]

This may be shown on your underhood vacuum diagram label as the PCV heater, it helps PCV operation in colder weather and helps to prevent condensation freeze-ups. If you have gunk in the hoses and oil films around them, replace the PCV and any overly soft or hard rubber breather/vacuum hoses. A PCV rattle is no longer a valid PCV test.
Sludge formation can damage the engine.

 

[marcpilot1]

Yes, I understand. The label under doesn't tell what that metal piece is that all those hoses go into or leave from. Whichever way I'm supposed to describe it. But you say its a PCV valve heater piece huh? Ok! I love it! That totally makes sense. Yea, it uses the heat from the engine somehow and sends that heat through those 3 or 4 hoses to warm up the PCV valve maybe. Yea! I get it, its a pcv heater piece. I assume. Now, I got a better looking PCV valve out of one of the 8 or so you pull it intrepids down at the salvage yard. I might just buy a new one even though the one I found looks better. Ok, this vip. Next to the 200 0intrepid in the yard was a 300m. It has the overhead info system. Whatever u call it. Will it go into my 2000 base intrepid?? Oh, and the 2004 passenger rear door, will that go on my 2000 intrepid? Last question for now is, does anyone know what the best solution is for dirty or stained carpet? Like rent gro store carpet cleaner and use attachment for car or buy that can of carpet stuff with that hard bristle top on it maybe? Go to a pro? Alright, that's enough for now I'm sure. THANK YOU SO MUCH for the hèlp with the pcv info! Very much, Marc-

 

[ImperialCrown]

A good used PCV should be fine. Rinse out the valve with carb/throttle body solvent followed by a blast of air.
A good PCV suck/engine health test would be to have the engine idling and then to remove the breather hose from the air cleaner. With a business card held flat against the end of the hose, it should suck flat onto the hose end with the negative pressure (vacuum) inside the engine crankcase and stay there.
If the PCV flow (vacuum draw) can't keep up with the engine (ring/valve) blowby at idle, then the positive pressure inside the engine crankcase will not allow the card to stick to the end of the hose when you place it there and it may actually push the card off. You might see blowby 'mist' exiting the end of the breather hose. This would be an excessive blowby situation.
Synthetic engine oil may be recommended by some people, but it is not a factory requirement. Depending on engine health now and in the future, you might want to consider a synthetic or synthetic blend. If the engine is in good shape mechanically, a good oil meeting MS-9214 as stated in the owners manual is recommended by Chrysler. A premium grade oil and a premium oil filter should be used at every change.
If you find yourself a factory service manual, it will offer you a lot of education on this car. Did the car come with an owners manual or do any of the junkers still have one?
The salvage yard should have an interchange reference guide like Hollander's or the Motor's crash book, that would tell you which other 2nd generation LH-body rear doors might fit on the Intrepid. An internet search may also give you a cross-reference to go by.
An EVIC may also require the wiring and a premium BCM, if yours is a base BCM. Certain sensors may also be needed if yours is lacking them. Again, a factory service manual with wiring diagrams would help here. There may also be a tutorial on adding this feature.
As for the carpet, I usually wait for a warm summer day to pull the seats and seat belt bolts out of a car. You can then pull out the carpet and soap and rinse it with a high-pressure hose. It is amazing what will come out of the carpet fibers with a blast of warm water. Then let it dry in the sun. If the jute backing can be removed from the carpet, do so, it is best to keep this dry as it can develop 'fishy wet dog' odors when damp.

 

[dak4x4]

Since the 2.7 has a history of death by sludge, you would want to use only synthetic oil even though the factory does not specify it. As to synthetic blends, you get only 10 to 30% synthetic in the bottle, not good enough if your trying to save an engine....

 

[marcpilot1]

So much education. Thanks too! Ok, an owners manual is pertinent and if I can find a cheap chilton or Haynes manual I'll grab that as well. Yea, ur right, it'll save questions and educate me to this exact car. Hey, that carpet trick is extremely helpful. Oh! The PCV valve I got from pep boys was identical looking to the one that was in there. BUT, when screwing it in, the female part cracked at the very tip top and is an inch long. I didn't realize before why the top of the part you screw it into had this dark silicone looking stuff on it. But it was because it was cracked before and someone repaired it. And its part of the whole round cover. The plenum or whatever you call that cover piece. So now I'm really screwed and don't know what to do. Jb weld? More of that dark silicone looking stuff? Sucks cuz its all one piece. Is that why I'm getting p1494 and p0455 maybe? Its running fine I guess, for now, but this is a big problem! I assume. Thanks for any guidance again,Marc-