· Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
More likely it is an open blower resistor. The rotary blower speed switches are usually pretty durable.
ImperialCrown said:It would be best to diagnose this when it isn't blowing cool.
Yep, I will try... but so far I've been on the road and/or busy with duties when it happens.
Any fault codes?
With this car, my understanding is that I have to flip the ignition from OFF to RUN three times within five seconds to show the codes. Most of the time that doesn't do anything... but once in a while I briefly see the text 'done' - so I guess that means no, no fault codes.
When I had my 02' it did the same thing. I took the control apart, and noticed the knobs where very loose, I went ahead and cleaned the contacts, put it back together, made sure the knobs where snug and the A/C worked as it should.Christopher said:I have a problem similar to the second one mentioned with my Stratus. Cold air will start/stop for no apparent reason. I have found that setting the selector to 'defrost' causes cold air to be produced. Often I can switch back to the regular AC setting and it will work fine. That is becoming less reliable and I seem to have to leave it on the 'defrost' setting for longer periods of time.
I've been told in my case it is probably the head unit, but I haven't taken the time to get it fixed.
hmmm...How do you get the control out?Jaime said:When I had my 02' it did the same thing. I took the control apart, and noticed the knobs where very loose, I went ahead and cleaned the contacts, put it back together, made sure the knobs where snug and the A/C worked as it should.
The wood bezel just snaps in place, just need pull around the edges. Once it is out, there are 4 screws that hold the control to the bezel, once that is off I think(been some time ago) thee are 3 screws that hold the control together, once those are off, then you will need to pull the knobs off, then pry the control apart. You then will see the inside. Mine was very dirty, so cleaned with eletrical clear spray and the use Dieo Electric greese on the contact points.Christopher said:hmmm...How do you get the control out?
Did that yesterday, following the instructions posted earlier. (The faux wood panel needs to be pulled really hard!) Mine had what looked like an overabundance of dielectric grease and some minor tarnishing on the metal. I removed a lot of the grease and spruced up the contacts and the wire connector pins. The fact that several things were not working correctly made me suspect that one or two important contacts were affected, but nothing was broken or worn. I got it all back together, and it's working so far. We'll have to see if my 'fix' sticks.If the HVAC control panel has intermittents, you might try removing it to look for bad connections, broken circuit board solder joints (on the larger pins), tarnished switch contacts...