Cass, run the vehicle until the tank is nearly empty. Pull the fuel pump relay and try to start the engine to deplete any fuel pressure in the lines. On this vehicle, you may be able to loosen two bolts for the straps in the center of the vehicle which will lower the tank enough so that you can unsnap the fuel line connectors from the top of the pump. I assume you are familiar with the quick disconnect fittings. The fuel lines will be plastic and the tank is plastic (HDPE). You are going to need a special tool to remove the plastic locking nut. Maybe AutoZone has it on their loan-a-tool program, or you can just buy one from Amazon, E-Bay, or possibly your local parts store. On some of these vans, it is possible to support the tank while you remove the 2 strap bolts, lower the tank, remove the locking nut, and swap out the fuel pump module without removing the tank.
2002 T&C Fuel Pump Replacement
I'm in the middle of a major 10-year preventative maintenance program on my 2002 T&C with 70,000 miles. I've already replaced the serpentine belt tensioner, belt, idler pulley, water pump, shocks, struts, wires, plugs and other maintenance stuff. I've had a few fuel pumps quit on me on 10-year old Mopars, so a new fuel pump is in order (please don't tell me to wait until the old pump quits). I'm not a youngster, and don'r relish the thought of lying under the car and wrestling with a rather large fuel tank, so I went to a local garage (good reputation) to inquire about a fuel pump replacement. They said they wanted $750 and refused to install the Denso pump that I already purchased. That's really high, so I decided to do it myself. I've done fuel pumps on a bunch of Mopars, but never a minivan. Is there anything special I should know about the job? Anything that's radically different on the minivans? Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
