[KOG]

Don't know if it'll work on an 02, but on the 95 and earlier you can replace the pump without removing the tank. Remove screws from filler neck, lower right side of tank enough to get to pump, support tank at that level with a board and you've got it. There is a siphon line on earlier models, yours should have one as well, use this to drain tank before removing tank straps. This job is MUCH easier with a lift.

 

[John Wood]

On my Gen III (1996), it was only necessary to loosen all the strap bolts, support the tank, and remove the bolts on the strap side near the center of the vehicle. Then the fuel lines unsnap from the top of the pump (plus the electrical connector) and you can get the tool in there to unscrew the locking nut. Note the position of the pickup sock and place the new pump in the same way (I think there is an alignment notch). Pressing down the pump and starting the nut, square, can be a challenge on the re-install. I never had to completely take the tank out, but may have removed the filler neck (support) screws to help get the tank low enough.

I was able to rig a way to pump out all the old gas because I still had a pump that would run if I banged on it. It required a jumper in the relay socket after I had secured a section of gas line from the pump to a 5 gallon gas can.

 

[cass]

Thanks to KOG and John Wood for their comments. I may be a glutton for punishment, but I always remove the fuel tank for a pump replacement because I like to clean it, inside and out, and work comfortably on the bench (comfort is important at my age). I usually have no trouble supporting and dropping the tank with a trolley jack and rolling it away from the car. The fuel filler pipe is connected to the tank through a 6" rubber hose attached with screw clamps at each end. The hose connects to a snout that's an integral part of the plastic tank, so there aren't any bolts to remove. For some reason, the manual says that it's very important to remove the upper screw clamp when dropping the tank so that the tank comes out with the hose still attached - can't figure that one out. On my 2002, it seems that just dropping the pump side of the tank would be difficult due to the large muffler heat shield that extends downward next to the tank, and the short rubber hose connecting it to the filler pipe. Both of these would limit the distance the right side of the tank could pivot downward. Also, it looks like it would be difficult (i.e. impossible) to remove the hose, due to it's short length, without dropping the tank.

 

[John Wood]

Try checking for quick disconnect fittings (up high) on the small plastic vent lines that go from the filler neck to the top of the tank. I think these are similar to the plastic gas line "quick snap lock" fittings. They may require pulling a plastic tab out (perpendicular to the line), before you can seperate the lines. These disconnects should be on the upward rise of the tubes as they approach the filler tube. After the screws are removed behind the gas cap filler door and the gas cap removed, you can begin lowering the tank and the filler tube with the vent lines. Unfortunately, there is a metal brace that goes between the two vent tubes, so they must be disconnected in order to drop the entire tank with the filler tube and vent lines attached. Pay attention to how the tubes route around that brace so you will get them back the same way.

It may be that you need to begin lowering the tank before you can gain access to the vent tube disconnects.

Again, I'm dealing with a Gen III and you have a Gen IV. I believe they are close to the same when it comes to the plastic (HDPE) gas tank R&R.