2003 300M 3.5 vin "G", the engine will stall at hwy speeds, PRNDL and odometer displays go out for a few seconds and then come back on with a "no bus" error message. After a few seconds, the odometer comes back on and the "no bus" message goes away. When trying to restart, the starter dosen't seem to stay engaged and will stutter like relay is being turned on and off. Will also act up after a short 10 minute stop after driving. Engine will crank normally sometimes but will also stutter like described above but and will not fire. After 10-15 minute cool down with the hood open the engine will usually start and run fine again. Both issues are intermittent. Trying to find diagnostic info on the web is frustrating at best. Best I can decipher, I may have a crank sensor failing. Anybody have a similar problem?
2003 300M intermittent stall/no start
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
I would suspect the crank sensor, except the crank sensor failing would not cause the no bus message.
The no bus message means the computers aren't talking to each other and could be a wiring problem or possibly even a failure (like a bad solder joint) in the instrument cluster.
The no bus message means the computers aren't talking to each other and could be a wiring problem or possibly even a failure (like a bad solder joint) in the instrument cluster.
1974 Plymouth Valiant - 2013 Dodge Dart - 2013 Chrysler 300C
Joined
·
38,062 Posts
I assumed the no bus condition was the error code.
First thing I'd do is unplug the computer, check for dirt / clean the connections, put on fresh dielectric grease, and reinsert. Actually I'd unplug and reinsert four or five times.
As old relative Joe Stelzer used to say, "90% of failures are just dirt."
(Not really true with modern electrics, which are usually pretty well sealed, but it still happens that dirt and corrosion cause bad connections.)
First thing I'd do is unplug the computer, check for dirt / clean the connections, put on fresh dielectric grease, and reinsert. Actually I'd unplug and reinsert four or five times.
As old relative Joe Stelzer used to say, "90% of failures are just dirt."
(Not really true with modern electrics, which are usually pretty well sealed, but it still happens that dirt and corrosion cause bad connections.)
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
·
22,977 Posts
U-codes (communication faults) may not be present in the PCM, but can show up in other modules that may require a special code reader/scan tool.
I have Torque Pro on my phone, I used that to scan for codes immediately after the engine stalled but there were no codes present. I will go through and recheck my connections/grounds and wiggle test my harnesses. The PCM connectors are all clean and tight, I'll keep digging.
Joined
·
32,915 Posts
People here have mentioned that this problem can be caused by an intermittent connection (solder joint) in the cluster in just the right place.
Stick with the basics first. Battery age, condition, connections last cleaned and tightened including the jump post connections. Many electrical gremlins can be cured on LH cars with this simple proceedure first.
Crank sensors have been known to fail without setting codes but the combo of your gremlins points to power/ground distribution.
FWIW if you do change the crank sensor OEM is the way to go. Aftermarket/offshore sensors tend to fail in less than a year...
Crank sensors have been known to fail without setting codes but the combo of your gremlins points to power/ground distribution.
FWIW if you do change the crank sensor OEM is the way to go. Aftermarket/offshore sensors tend to fail in less than a year...
Went through and checked my power and ground connections, the only thing I found was a slightly loose negative battery cable. I tightened that and started the engine. With the engine running, I went around and tugged on the connectors and moved the harnesses around to see if I had a bad connection or wire somewhere but didn't find anything. I tapped on the cluster too but nothing happened. The problem hasn't occurred in the last couple days of driving so I'm going to replace the crank sensor and just monitor things.
Got an oem crank sensor from the dealer, only $38 bucks, not too bad. It even says "made in the USA" on the package. Gonna start with the sensor and see what happens, the "no bus" only happend one time and it was only for a few seconds so I guess I'll have to wait until it starts happening more often to diagnose it.
Joined
·
119 Posts
Is there anything else not working on the 300M outside of the engine compartment? I know of 3 Jeeps that had instrument panel codes like that, which was caused by a bad door control module. When the door control module failed, it would cause problems on the bus; simply unplugging it fixed the problem. I agree that loss of the crank sensor would not disturb the bus.
I read somewhere that if a crank sensor shorts internally, it can pull the 5v reference low and cause a stall and no bus message. I replaced the sensor a couple weeks ago and so far the problem has not happened again. To answer your first question, the engine is from a 300m, but it's not actually in a 300m anymore....its not even in a Chrysler anymore....tlewis said:
After I built a custom cold air intake:
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Join the discussion
