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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all.

Just bought this, and it's just got a big ding in the tailgate.

It's a tad grunty. Frankly, useless, apart from towing, or going off-road. There's nowhere in this country that I can drive this thing so fast.

Too nice to go bush, so fix and sell.

Apparently though, it's doing what my Cruiser does, and won't always react to the key - Cruiser only half unlocks the tailgate, (BTW - it's in a pile of bits at the panelshop, being repainted - thanks State Insurance), but the Cherokee has some weird intermittent issue with either the key, or the ignition barrel.

Cruiser, I car probably fix - might be moisture or lack of lubrication, but I am nervous about the Cherokee being odd.

Is it possible that there is some rear impact damage going on that's set some kind of safety switch into terror mode, or could it simply be a bad ignition switch barrel - i.e. worn contacts?

Any thoughts, please.
 

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Aside from the Airbag system, there is no impact safety sensor that would affect the ignition switch.
I would begin by investigating possible key, key cylinder or ignition switch wear or damage in the steering column?
Do you hear a single relay 'click' consistently when the key is turned to the 'start' position?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi people,

Thought I'd put this up a few days ago, but must have done something wrong...

Typical.

Just bought a 2003 WJ, 4.7 Overland High Output. 144000 miles on the clock. In theory, good for 128 mph, but won't be trying that...

Got it cheapish, as there's a big ding in the tailgate, but the guy delivered it from way down the line, and it cost him more in damage to his car transporter's tyres than he charged me to bring it 440 miles to me. Then he had to drive home...

His tyre cost him $480, fitted. And his girlfriend was in the truck with him - can't imagine that she was overly impressed, especially as she didn't want the Jeep sold.

All legal, and, even though I've only driven it about 10 miles - had issues getting insurance done because phone kept crapping out, and don't even ask about the net. Technology. Hah!

Give me a rock, some string and some wire. That used to be my toolkit.

Engine in Jeep is beautiful, but I take note what I've read about the trans, so will get it serviced quickly. No rust, except in window outer dew wipe weatherstrips, and they've been ordered.
Are there any sites that forum members would recommend for parts, from tiny to more substantial?

Use to be a Toyota man, but the later ones are not my friends. Have worked on Range Rovers in the past - never again, sorry.

I'm told that in the WJ V8 that they're a 5/6 speed auto, with 2 separate second ratios - one for accelerating, and a different one for downshift.

Anyway, it's way cooler that a Mazda 2 or a Camry with 500000m on the clock. THAT sounded like an angle grinder in the end.

Any hints that will help me to get this really nice vehicle into a state to avoid future complications?

I want to keep it for a long time.

Obviously, regular servicing, but anything else preventative that I can do at home?

BTW: The '05 Cruiser Classic 2.4i auto is still doing the half unlock tailgate thing with the remote - open the car with the remote, start it, then idiot-light comes on saying tailgate not shut. I switch off, go and check, and it's loose but I cant open it without putting the key in, and then shutting it again.

Would it be worth it worth stripping out the tailgate and doing a lube on the control rods, or whatever?

There's no moving part on the exterior handle, nor does their appear to be any sort of pressure switch/sensor - not a major, but annoying...

Thanks for your comprehensive advice on all my issues.

Cheers, Andy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Aside from the Airbag system, there is no impact safety sensor that would affect the ignition switch.
I would begin by investigating possible key, key cylinder or ignition switch wear or damage in the steering column?
Do you hear a single relay 'click' consistently when the key is turned to the 'start' position?
Hi there,

Thanks for your response.

Once again, I managed to post everything in the wrong place - please put that down to me living upside-down at the bottom of the planet.

The Moderators are going to get sick of me very soon, as it seems I can't follow simple instructions...

Weirdly, another new battery in the unlock remote seems to have fixed that particular issue - so far, anyway.

Runs sweet, pulls to the left a bit, (it's RHD territory down here), but today has been bonkers, and I never got to check the tyre pressures.

Another job for tomorrow.

I'm impressed by the amount of spare parts available online - some are just stupid price-wise, yet others are a fair deal.

So thanks again - I'm off to the PT Cruiser department to see if I can work out this half-unlocking tailgate.

Cheers, Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hard to believe,

But I just scored a complete tailgate, in the correct colour, fitted, for basically US$200 in NZ$ equivalent.

Some fool let the registration lapse on a really low-mileage Overland, and while it would have been possible to get it back on the road, it costs moonbeams just for the paperwork, then they rip the car to bits and tell you why they need to charge thousands to reassemble it.

All because someone didn't pay attention - the rego can be put on hold for NOTHING.

My Dad's 72 Chev has been on hold for 30 years, and simply needs to run through it's roadworthy test, and bingo, you're legal for about $150.00.

And then probably an episode of Vice-Grip Garage, but it drove into the shed...

Wake up people in NZ!!!

Of course, this is to my advantage in this instance.

I hate to gloat, but I really want to.

Night all.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So,

The tailgate thing happened. Mighty happy with that.

However, just did another 700km plus round trip to Auckland today, with no issues in the JGC, until it developed some sort of death wobble that wouldn't allow me to drive at over 70km/h, (40 mph).

Nothing vibrating on the trip south, but heading home, I had to pull off the side of the expressway, and I thought I was about to lose the front driveshaft, or at least a wheel. Seriously brutal shaking.

Nothing obviously wrong, except r/h front wheel much hotter to touch. I thought maybe jammed brake caliper, stuffed wheel-bearing or some hideous CV/Cardan joint thing - on the one time I only had a 3/8" drive socket set in the car. And 160km left to travel home.

Given the weekend traffic, and no exit ramps for a hell of a distance, I nursed it until I could get onto a back road, and kept it under 50km/h.

Eventually had no choice but to speed up because even on the back roads, I was holding everyone up.

80, 90, !00 - eventually 120km/h.

What the hell?

It's sweet-as again, so I think I need an align and balance, and go from there.

Sorry people, but this is very weird.

BTW - are the XJ Cherokee V6s any good? I've nen told they're both awful, and also that they're great. No wonder I live in a permanent state of confusion....

Cheers, Andy

Andy
 

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Death wobble can happen for any number of reasons, it is usually set off by some imperfection in the road, not because you are going a certain speed. Though the speed you are going when you hit the imperfections does matter.

It’s time to inspect the whole front end. Shocks, steering stabilizer, tires, any slop in any front end components, then a good alignment.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Death wobble can happen for any number of reasons, it is usually set of by some imperfection in the road, not because you are going a certain speed. Though the speed you are going when you hit the imperfections does matter.

It’s time to inspect the whole front end. Shocks, steering stabilizer, tires, any slip in any front end components, then a good alignment.

Yes, gotcha.

I was kinda do it the other way around - figured align and balance, then get the bad news.

Shocks are new, but non-standard and adjustable, and I think the car is riding just slightly higher than stock.

Man, all I want is a daily driver, and this can be used for towing. It's Quadratrac, which has it's pluses and minuses, but that wobbly poopies is not allowed.

I can just afford to have the suspension rebuilt, just hope it's not necessary.

Especially when it just always wants to GO! It's such a sweet engine and trans, and the body is rust-free.

I have to say, I have honestly never owned a faster car - which isn't good, if the wheels are all pointing everywhere away from each other.

Just did all the tyre pressures again, and passed a BMW X5 going uphill at 140km/h. On half pedal. Love this engine.

Still handling like a bag of dirt.

Parked up now.

Alignment and so on booked for next week.

Time to break out the bike.

I might lose enough weight pedalling to score a few more acceleration points.

Seriously, though, it doesn't feel safe to drive, and I'm not going to put anyone else at risk until it's fixed.

Hope $2K will cover it...

Thanks people.

Andy
 

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Definitely an assessment first. Changing ride height will also change steering, suspension and driveshaft geometry. If there is no other compensation done other than raising the vehicle, it can cause problems. The violent side-to side oscillation may be from this.
There is also a steering damper (looks like a horizontal shock absorber) in the steering linkage to dampen this 'death wobble'. It can leak out fluid and lose its ability to perform.
The old V6 XJ was a carburetted GM 2.8L engine. I felt that the AMC in-line 4.0L H.O. was a better engine.
Early ones had the Renix (Renault-Bendix) EFI. It was OK, but could be difficult to diagnose and get parts for.
The newer XJ had the Chryslerized EFI, which was more serviceable, if necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Question - was the AMC in-line 4.0 litre HO the same as the Chrysler 245 "hemi" engine sold down here in the Valiants and Chargers?

Came out ias 245 and 265 CID versions, and the fastest pushrod 6 sold for ages - Aussie Highway Patrol used 'em, and they didn't stuff around...

Cheers, Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi,

Thanks for clarifying that.

The "hemi" 6 wasn't even a true hemi, was it?

I'll read the links you kindly sent me, and I guess that all will be revealed!

Wasn't AMC Rambler at some earlier time?

I had several Toyotas, 2T 1600cc and 3T 1800cc, and I think they WERE genuine hemis.

I know the 383 Chrysler Newport was described as a "wedge", so that's out.

What about the Jeep 4.7 HO V8? Apparently SOHC, so it would be close, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

It's no biggie - just curious.

Thanks and take care,

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Many thanks again, Valiant '67.

Just want to make an observation: I have had some seriously crap service from various "professionals" in relation to advice on what can and can't be fixed, and the ONLY ones who have ever done a good job swear by the forums.

The rest of them say that the forums are populated by unqualified fools, but when I can lift the hood on my car and show them, (for example), the FACTORY emission control circuit diagram, then they start rabbiting on about it being misprinted, or whatever, and so on.

How can it take a week to diagnose and replace an indicator switch on a Mazda Familia? Apparently the warehouse kept "sending the wrong parts"..

How about "you kept ordering the wrong parts"???

Got annoyed, paid $150 to get the car back because herself needed it for night shift at the hospital - still no indicators.

What am I paying for, I asked?

"Labour and diagnostics".

Ended up replacing the hazard light flasher unit, cost $15.00 all up. Less than an hour's work, all thanks to some Mazda forum.

Forums good, auto electricians not so much.

I'm lucky in that I have a really cool mechanic, but he's so in demand that you go on his waiting list. And, hardy-har-har, the business next to his charges twice as much for labour, and their parting words to their customers, after they've been paid, are inevitably "Sell it - it's not going to last".

Keep it up, amazing people!

Cheers. Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok,

Just spent 8.5 hours travelling in the '03 JGC Overland HO, (WJ- I'm too tired to recall), 6.5 hours of the trip with a trailer/caravan/mobile home or whatever they're called.

Very messed up day, and I won't get into that, but the GC handled so much better with the weight on the back - it even steered better, so I will still get it aligned and balanced, but I suspect that the rear control arm bushings are screwed.

Once the load was off the drawbar, it went back to handling like poopies, and I had to concentrate hard to keep it from wandering from a straight line.

The other weird thing is that it used no more gas towing the weight - how can that be?

Take care people, Andy
 
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