[ImperialCrown]

Welcome to Allpar. A 4.86v signal at the TIP sensor is almost 5.0v. Is this with the engine off (no vacuum)? Does the signal voltage drop with the engine idling?
The vacuum hoses can be routed wrong. Follow the P1188.pdf attached. See the Possible Causes. Perform the solenoid tests. The solenoids are all the same. If you have a suspect TIP sol, try to swap wires & hoses to an adjacent sol?

 

[ImperialCrown]

I knew that the vacuum hoses could be swapped around. They may be color coded with a paint dot, if the dot is still visible. It would make sense to key the connectors, although electrically the solenoids are the same, each has its own Mopar part number.

I was glad to see that the TIP sensor changed voltage with & without vacuum. You may not see much of a variance from 2 volts with the engine revving in the driveway. You should see a wider spread with the engine under load (like power braking).

See if the solenoids are able to hold & release vacuum with & without 12v applied.
Follow the test starting with #3. We already know that the fault is consistent with boost.
The cat must not be restricted as exhaust back-pressure can generate this fault. A pressure sensor can screw in where the upstream O2 sensor is to measure back-pressure.
Make sure that the turbo hoses & joints are leak-free. They may be original?
A handheld vacuum pump can run the solenoid tests.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Always diagnose first. I would avoid the temptation of ordering parts until we find out what it needs. Finding the cause comes first.

I have found evap (vapor) hoses dry rotted & split (leak). Engine compartment hoses with an oil leaks can soften & swell (leak). If you have an underhood diagram of hose routing, follow it from the tank to purge valve.
Turbo engines make a lot of heat also.
Start with the simple stuff.