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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2003 town and country 3.3 v6 flex fuel 2 wheel drive trys to start up, sometimes it runs for few seconds and dies. Just replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and had the starter tested. It's getting fuel from the fuel filter but not at the fuel rail except every once in a while it gets a small amount than back to nothing. Was told my van don't have a serviceable regulator its part of the fuel filter. Any suggestions of what it could be? What all to try next?
 

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The regulator is in the tank, according to rockauto.com's part listing. $87 to $107, approximately. Test fuel pressure to see if it's OK and consistent.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Also using the key to get codes, only getting code for the battery being unhooked during last 50 start ups.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The regulator is in the tank, according to rockauto.com's part listing. $87 to $107, approximately. Test fuel pressure to see if it's OK and consistent.
Thanks, autozone is the one who told me my regulator is nonservicable part because its part of the fuel filter. We just replaced the fuel filter right after replacing the fuel pump.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Welcome to Allpar. I agree with diagnosing this before replacing anything. A fuel pressure gauge would be helpful for this. If you jump the pump, it should put out 58 + or - 5 psi.
If the fuel pump was just replaced, then the regulator should be brand new and still under warranty.
Make sure that there isn't any other reason for low/no fuel pressure at the rail.
The regulator can be serviced as Mopar part# 5016846AE.
An example:
http://www.eastcoastmoparts.com/oe-mopar/5016846ae
 

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How much gasoline is in the fuel tank? When you replace a fuel pump module, there is a plastic cup that is part of the fuel pump assembly. This holds about 1 quart of fuel and helps the pump prime and provide liquid fuel to the fuel rail. With a new pump this is empty and the fuel level in the tank needs to be sufficient ( at least 4 - 5 gallons) so the pump will prime. Also the vehicle needs to be level so the pump will prime properly.

Also with replacing a fuel pump module assembly, the fuel lines and fuel rail will have air trapped in them. The 1 - 2 second pump prime that occurs when the ignition switch is turned to RUN is not sufficient to purge this air.

If you have a fuel pressure gauge with the special connector that attaches to the fuel rail, use that to connect to the fuel rail and place the other end of the hose in an empty fuel container. Remove the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center and jump the appropriate connector to power the fuel pump for about 30 seconds. That should prime the fuel system and purge air from the system such that you only have liquid fuel in the fuel rail. Reassemble everything properly and the engine should start immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's sitting at almost a half tank of gas.a lot of gas is coming out at the fuel filter. Don't have tool to check pressure at moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Gas is not getting out this part of fuel line connected to the block and fuel line.what is this part called? Guy at autozone wasn't sure what it is and kept trying to sale me another fuel filter that I already bought from them.
 

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Is that the plastic fuel line (jumper) that goes between the metal passenger-side fuel line to the fuel rail on the engine under the hood?
Can you blow air through it? They rarely clog.
It is shown as item # 6 on figure 14-460 here:
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Chrysler_Service_Parts_Catalog/CD4/02-05/03rs.PDF
The latest Mopar part # for this jumper is 4809304AH. It wouldn't usually be available from a big-box auto parts store generically.
I see it available online if you Google 'Mopar part 4809304AH'.
 

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Sorry if this is useless info. Hunting around on the web. You are not alone on this problem. One person had access to an air compressor. Line hooked up. The went to the fuel rail side and blew air into the end and it opened up the line.

The line is supposed to have spring loaded internals. They used the compressor to blow into the line. How? They didn't explain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is that the plastic fuel line (jumper) that goes between the metal passenger-side fuel line to the fuel rail on the engine under the hood?
Can you blow air through it? They rarely clog.
It is shown as item # 6 on figure 14-460 here:
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Chrysler_Service_Parts_Catalog/CD4/02-05/03rs.PDF
The latest Mopar part # for this jumper is 4809304AH. It wouldn't usually be available from a big-box auto parts store generically.
I see it available online if you Google 'Mopar part 4809304AH'.
Yes that's the part. Thanks. Autozone sold us a fuel line repair kit but it ended up being little big. Using the fuel line repair kit the van still isn't staying run now that it's getting gas to the engine. I'm not sure if its just because we need to get the exact part instead of using the fuel line repair kit or if something else could be the problem. Also, no there wasn't no fuel coming out the one end of it nor was air.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Did the repair kit include a new 5/16" rubber fuel hose as well as the connector ends? Are you now able to blow through the fuel lines and hoses?
If you believe that you have a blockage as the reason that you aren't getting fuel up front, you need to find and fix the blockage. If there are other issues, we can find and fix them after we know that the lines and hoses are clear.
Be careful working around gasoline, especially gasoline under pressure.
Since this is a Flex Fuel vehicle, it is important to use only parts with Flex Fuel ratings. The factory used green-colored parts to indicate that they were 'Flex Fuel only'. Some rubber parts don't stand up well with high ethanol (E85) content. The Flex Fuel fuel pump has a different part number than the non-FF fuel pump.
 
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