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Discussion Starter #1
Have a 2003 Town and country and looks like I'm ready to put a 3rd water pump on it. It only has 82,000 miles. The last pump has probably only been on 2 years or 30,000ish miles. It was from NAPA, I think at the time they didn't have a lifetime warrenty one.

what brand water pump are you guys buying and which one(s) are best for long life?

Thanks.
 

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Moparaholic
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Have a 2003 Town and country and looks like I'm ready to put a 3rd water pump on it. It only has 82,000 miles. The last pump has probably only been on 2 years or 30,000ish miles. It was from NAPA, I think at the time they didn't have a lifetime warrenty one.

what brand water pump are you guys buying and which one(s) are best for long life?

Thanks.
If youve gone through that much Heck Id consider a factory. I don't hear of too awful many factory ones failing as prematurely as urs did.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If youve gone through that much Heck Id consider a factory. I don't hear of too awful many factory ones failing as prematurely as urs did.
Thanks for the reply. I took a closer look tonight. The antifreeze is actually coming from the steel lines that go back to the rear heater. These look like they go from the rear of the engine down right behind the front wheels and then go to hose. They've rusted thru right in front of the hoses and is dripping pretty good. Since they're pretty rusty I'll probably need to replace the whole unit. I'm sure the dealer is the only place for these. I'm afraid if I cut them and fill in the gap with hose they'll rust thru somewhere else.

How hard are they to replace??? Doesn't look too bad but I wonder if I can get it out without being on a lift. ??

Thanks again.
 

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There have been a few posts on this in the minivan forum, I did not pay too much attention since I live where there's not much rust.

I do know there are three things people have done:
1) Some did install a bypass hose and did away with the rear heat.
2) There is an improved dealer part out there.
3) Dorman has a replacement, go to www.Dorman.com and enter your van's info and look up the HVAC heater hose assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There have been a few posts on this in the minivan forum, I did not pay too much attention since I live where there's not much rust.

I do know there are three things people have done:
1) Some did install a bypass hose and did away with the rear heat.
2) There is an improved dealer part out there.
3) Dorman has a replacement, go to www.Dorman.com and enter your van's info and look up the HVAC heater hose assembly.
Thanks again.

It looks like the latest dealer part is better (stainless maybe) but its $180-200. Ouch. Can't do that, not this time of year. Are there any alternatives out there? Hoses and fittings? Dorman was about $80 but said they don't carry that part anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
WELL,
This water pump only lasted 23000 miles and it is seaping pretty good. at least the pulley mount didn't break off like the napa one..

Anyone have any luck with other brands of water pumps? Is the Bosch pump any good?

I also suspect the metal inlet pipe/tube is also rusted thru. Rock auto has good prices on the Dorman inlet tube. how hard are those to replace?

Thanks.
 

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I'm runnng a Bosch water pump in my turbo now, been fine for 2 years and about 6k miles.
 

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To OP. Be sure to thoroughly flush your cooling system and replace with good quality anti-freeze. Normally a WP should go much longer than 23,000 miles, but if the anti-freeze is old, that could be contributing to the short life of these pumps that you are experiencing.
 

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Or incorrect belt tension, or a misaligned pulley, which can chew up the bearing and/or seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
replaced the belt and tensioner (preventative) with last new pump. Will look at alignment too, may be reason for the napa pump pully brakets to break off. Antifreeze is "mostly new". didn't actually "flush" it out. Doesn't explain why the OE pump went out about 50-60k unless something was really out of line from the factory.. .

on our old 1994 with a 3.3l i replaced the pump at least 2 times, maybe 3 and about 3 tensioners too.
 

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Virginia Gentleman
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FWIW - I had a waterpump fail in less than a year after I had it replaced on a 93 Aerostar 3.0L. It was more or less a catastrophic failure - coolant was flowing out - not weeping. Sometimes you just get a bad part. The van was still on the good replacement when I traded it in a few years later.
 

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Use the orange HOAT antifreeze in vehicles that call for it.
Do not mix green and orange antifreeze. The green antifreeze is pretty much obsolete with today's high aluminum content engines.
The newer HOATs can last 5 yrs/100K miles and really add to the years that cooling system components can last.
http://www.underhoodservice.com/issue/article.aspx?contentid=46495
 

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KOG
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I've been running Auto Zone, Advance and O'Reilly stuff. Replace at 100K as routine. No problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ordered a new Bosch (debated about a Gates brand) water pump and while I'm at it a new lower inlet tube as the original is quite rusty.

How do the inlet tubes install? Never did get a book for the van .. probably should.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Remove windsheild wiper/windshield wiper tray for access. The revised Chrysler tubes are made out of Aluminum and worht the extra money.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
actually I was talking about the big tube that the lower rad hose attaches too under the front end of the engine.

"fixed" the heater tubes you're talking about a couple years ago with hoses. Would use the alum. ones next time if i need it.

THanks.
 

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It press into place with an o-ring and is retained by the one mounting bolt. There are two different tubes. One std and one for an engine with an oil cooler.
 
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