2004 Chrysler Concorde LXi
Howdy guys,
It's been a while since I've been on the site. I posted a question about the infinity sound system a while back for this same car. This is a bit of an update and a question.
I have 2 questions;
First,we found out why the front speakers weren't working they aren't there. So we purchased new speakers. WHen we went to install them we found the speaker wires had been twisted together,hence we found that the amp is shot going to the front. The question is; can we buy any amp to replace it and hook the signal from the radio to the amp of our choice, or do we need to locate a chrylser amp for it????? We'd like to just purchase an amp of our choice but didn't know if it would work for the system.
Question # 2. we keep gettting the same O2 senor code with the check engine light and all 4 O2 sensors have been replaced. Mass airflow sensor has been cleaned, new gas cap, and new plugs. We were told that opening up the exhuast would probably help. What sugestions do you guys have for installing a performance exhaust on this car???? Can we modify the system with a header and a few high flow Cat's and install the O2 sensors in front of and behind the cats as it would be on the stock system??? Just curious. We are thinking that we have a bad cat in the right bank and if we're going to spend the money why not upgrade the exhaust system.
Thanks guys and hope to hear from you soon,
Vince
517-442-7764
It's been a while since I've been on the site. I posted a question about the infinity sound system a while back for this same car. This is a bit of an update and a question.
I have 2 questions;
First,we found out why the front speakers weren't working they aren't there. So we purchased new speakers. WHen we went to install them we found the speaker wires had been twisted together,hence we found that the amp is shot going to the front. The question is; can we buy any amp to replace it and hook the signal from the radio to the amp of our choice, or do we need to locate a chrylser amp for it????? We'd like to just purchase an amp of our choice but didn't know if it would work for the system.
Question # 2. we keep gettting the same O2 senor code with the check engine light and all 4 O2 sensors have been replaced. Mass airflow sensor has been cleaned, new gas cap, and new plugs. We were told that opening up the exhuast would probably help. What sugestions do you guys have for installing a performance exhaust on this car???? Can we modify the system with a header and a few high flow Cat's and install the O2 sensors in front of and behind the cats as it would be on the stock system??? Just curious. We are thinking that we have a bad cat in the right bank and if we're going to spend the money why not upgrade the exhaust system.
Thanks guys and hope to hear from you soon,
Vince
517-442-7764
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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17,286 Posts
Have you tried the amp since discovering the wires twisted together? Many of these output IC's have an 'over-current protection', where they will shut down to avoid damaging themselves. You may have to cycle the power (pull amp fuse or connector) to reset the protection mode.
I wouldn't tamper with the exhaust. Diagnose the O2 'P' fault code. I suggest factory O2 sensors as I have had issues with aftermarket O2's in the past.
I wouldn't tamper with the exhaust. Diagnose the O2 'P' fault code. I suggest factory O2 sensors as I have had issues with aftermarket O2's in the past.
We will give it a shot and see if pulling the fuse resets the amp. However I thought when they went into protect mode you didn't get any sound at all. this has all kinds of static and noise. But we will give it a shot.
As for the O2 sensor yes its the front on bank 2. I'll have to get in contact with Dad to give you the code. All 4 O2 sensors have been replaced with in the last 2 weeks, because we'd fix one and then it would give a code for another and so on. Then it gave spark plug codes too. So we replaced all of those as well. We never did get a code for the Mass airflow sensor, but we pulled it apart and it was filthy, terribly filthy, so we cleaned the snot out of that. I am trying to remember if Dad had picked up a K&N Air filter or not for it. I'll have to ask.
The reason we are asking about changing the exhaust is because it is awfully small in some sections. It gets as small as 1 3/4 at one point. Seems to me that it is choked down an awful lot. Has no room to breath.
Every car we get we end up re-engineering it. So we were looking for some advice in that reguard. Is there a specific reason you wouldn't change the exhuast? We want to make sure we don't end up doing damage. I know you guys know an awful lot about these cars, so just curious if anyone has done anything of the sort.
One example of what we've done:
For instance Dad purchased a 1998 Mustang 3.8L V-6 5 speed new in 98'. (I know it's a Ford but....) The first thing we did was bring it home and re-engineer the car. Got rid of the junk Goodyear tires, put Yokohama's on it (he actually went right to the shop and got the tires put on before he made it home with the car). Added a diablo chip and under drive pulley kit, put a swirl block on the throttle body, put in sport springs, airbag suspension for better handling, performance exhuast, Steeda shifter, upgraded the plugs and wires, K&N Air filter, dumped the oil and replaced with Mobil 1 0W40 Full Synthetic, dumped the rear end oil and replaced with performance synthetics, dumped the trans oil and replaced with synthetics, did a slipcoat treatment on all as well, it now has 231,500 miles on it and it will still smoke a Mustang GT. And we've never done the heads or heads Gaskets on it. As you probably know, you unsually have to do heads or at the very least head gaskets between 125,000 and 150,000 on the Ford 3.8L. (We did the heads twice on the 1991 Cougar we had. Note we didn't re-engineer that car until after the second set of heads. Then it ran better than it had ever run and we sold it at 206,000 miles.)
So again just curious, I'll get the code it keeps tripping and hopefully have it posted here soon.
Thanks Guys,
Vince
517-442-7764
As for the O2 sensor yes its the front on bank 2. I'll have to get in contact with Dad to give you the code. All 4 O2 sensors have been replaced with in the last 2 weeks, because we'd fix one and then it would give a code for another and so on. Then it gave spark plug codes too. So we replaced all of those as well. We never did get a code for the Mass airflow sensor, but we pulled it apart and it was filthy, terribly filthy, so we cleaned the snot out of that. I am trying to remember if Dad had picked up a K&N Air filter or not for it. I'll have to ask.
The reason we are asking about changing the exhaust is because it is awfully small in some sections. It gets as small as 1 3/4 at one point. Seems to me that it is choked down an awful lot. Has no room to breath.
Every car we get we end up re-engineering it. So we were looking for some advice in that reguard. Is there a specific reason you wouldn't change the exhuast? We want to make sure we don't end up doing damage. I know you guys know an awful lot about these cars, so just curious if anyone has done anything of the sort.
One example of what we've done:
For instance Dad purchased a 1998 Mustang 3.8L V-6 5 speed new in 98'. (I know it's a Ford but....) The first thing we did was bring it home and re-engineer the car. Got rid of the junk Goodyear tires, put Yokohama's on it (he actually went right to the shop and got the tires put on before he made it home with the car). Added a diablo chip and under drive pulley kit, put a swirl block on the throttle body, put in sport springs, airbag suspension for better handling, performance exhuast, Steeda shifter, upgraded the plugs and wires, K&N Air filter, dumped the oil and replaced with Mobil 1 0W40 Full Synthetic, dumped the rear end oil and replaced with performance synthetics, dumped the trans oil and replaced with synthetics, did a slipcoat treatment on all as well, it now has 231,500 miles on it and it will still smoke a Mustang GT. And we've never done the heads or heads Gaskets on it. As you probably know, you unsually have to do heads or at the very least head gaskets between 125,000 and 150,000 on the Ford 3.8L. (We did the heads twice on the 1991 Cougar we had. Note we didn't re-engineer that car until after the second set of heads. Then it ran better than it had ever run and we sold it at 206,000 miles.)
So again just curious, I'll get the code it keeps tripping and hopefully have it posted here soon.
Thanks Guys,
Vince
517-442-7764
Actually talking with Dad right now. He says that the code is 420 Cat efficiency???? No longer giving O2 code. Dad contacted Chrysler to see if they will replace the cat. So it under review.
Dad went with performance exhuast anyway. This is what he did: Start at the front twin resonators, replaced with a y pipe 2" to single 2 1/2" into the muffler, out of the muffler 2 1/2" pipe to a 2 1/2" inlet glass pack, and out 2 1/2" to a stainless tip. Sounds stock actually so he says.
So far all codes have stayed off, and he's getting 32 mpg average. only have acouple 100 miles so far from doing the exhuast.
Dad went with performance exhuast anyway. This is what he did: Start at the front twin resonators, replaced with a y pipe 2" to single 2 1/2" into the muffler, out of the muffler 2 1/2" pipe to a 2 1/2" inlet glass pack, and out 2 1/2" to a stainless tip. Sounds stock actually so he says.
So far all codes have stayed off, and he's getting 32 mpg average. only have acouple 100 miles so far from doing the exhuast.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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17,286 Posts
Cat emission warranty is 8/80. As long as you are under 80,000 miles, you should be OK. The dealer would determine if the cat is bad. Don't erase the P0420 code as they will need it present in order to help you.
They may have misgivings on warranty coverage if they see a funky exhaust underneath, so I would hold off with any modifications until after the cats are addressed.
The amp may have further problems like broken solder joints if you are getting static and crackles. They may have twisted the front spkr wires together in order to keep it quiet.
They may have misgivings on warranty coverage if they see a funky exhaust underneath, so I would hold off with any modifications until after the cats are addressed.
The amp may have further problems like broken solder joints if you are getting static and crackles. They may have twisted the front spkr wires together in order to keep it quiet.
Exhaust is already done. Had it done yesterday. Dad took it to the dealer and they are looking into it. They gave Dad the info on contacting Chrysler about covering it. He has 88,000 miles on it dealer said chrysler may replace it and again gave him the info on whom to contact.
Having trouble locating the amp Dad has the trunk apart and doesn't see it he picked up an amp today at the junk yard to see if it will work they said if it doesn't to just bring it back. I was told these were located in the trunk.
let me know.
Vince
517-442-7764
Having trouble locating the amp Dad has the trunk apart and doesn't see it he picked up an amp today at the junk yard to see if it will work they said if it doesn't to just bring it back. I was told these were located in the trunk.
let me know.
Vince
517-442-7764
Hey guys,
Found it. It is located in the dash in the right front fender area. I went over to Dads to help him out. The amp he got from the junk yard won't work it is not the same hook up. However I took it all apart and he is going to go to the junk yard to match one up. Found that only the left front channel is bad. Guessing its the amp if not it must be the radio its self.
As for the exhaust it is very smooth and quiet considering. However once the glasspack is burned in that may be a different story.
So to any one out there looking for the location of the amp on an 04 Concorde LXi it's in the dash behind the glove box and into the fender area. One nut comes off the bottom and you can pull it right out. After of course you remove 20 some screws to take the glove box and trim out.
Vince
Found it. It is located in the dash in the right front fender area. I went over to Dads to help him out. The amp he got from the junk yard won't work it is not the same hook up. However I took it all apart and he is going to go to the junk yard to match one up. Found that only the left front channel is bad. Guessing its the amp if not it must be the radio its self.
As for the exhaust it is very smooth and quiet considering. However once the glasspack is burned in that may be a different story.
So to any one out there looking for the location of the amp on an 04 Concorde LXi it's in the dash behind the glove box and into the fender area. One nut comes off the bottom and you can pull it right out. After of course you remove 20 some screws to take the glove box and trim out.
Vince
Hey Guy's
Yanked a 325 watt amp out of an 04 300M. the plugs are tyhe same. I pulled a bunch of the wiring harness out too. I installed the amp under the front passenger seat, made a wire harness extention for the one set of wires, was able to un-tape a bunch of the other harness and add some wire to it to make it long enough to go under the seat. Sound system sounds great. Dad is very happy.
Vince
Yanked a 325 watt amp out of an 04 300M. the plugs are tyhe same. I pulled a bunch of the wiring harness out too. I installed the amp under the front passenger seat, made a wire harness extention for the one set of wires, was able to un-tape a bunch of the other harness and add some wire to it to make it long enough to go under the seat. Sound system sounds great. Dad is very happy.
Vince
Joined
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5 Posts
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