[msg123456]

Hi all,

Just wondered if anyone else had run into this problem.

All of my doors open with my remote except the drivers side door.

Looking on the internet, some people have had trouble with the actuator but thought I would see what else people had run into.

Thanks for any advice.

Max.

 

[ImperialCrown]

By 'driver's side', you mean the drivers door or the left rear door? An Or/Bk and DB/Wt wire pulse the drivers door lock open or closed. If you have power here when actuating the power lock, the latch assembly is probably failed.

 

[msg123456]

Thanks Imperial Crown..It is the drivers door.

I will have a look at that when I get it apart..

 

[msg123456]

Wierd, now discovered both rear windows will not operate. Not sure if they are on same circuit. Checked fuses and all seem ok. Broken wire somewhere?

 

[ImperialCrown]

Power windows and locks are on separate circuits. It could possibly be broken wires, especially where they flex between the drivers door and body. You may want to find a wiring diagram.

 

[msg123456]

Thanks Imperial,

Get really cold winters in the Yukon so the wires may have broken. I guess there are no readers out there that can isolate the problem for me?

 

[ImperialCrown]

You need to diagnose some things first. Is there power and ground to the drivers lock actuator and window motors? You may be able to check for rear window switch power/ground at the drivers door master switch when you do the drivers door power lock.

 

[msg123456]

Thanks again Imperial,

I was going to purchase a service manual and wondered if I need just the book named Service manual or all four that are listed on this ebay listing?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2004-Chrysler-Sebring-Dodge-Stratus-Sedan-Convertible-Service-Manual-Set-/321093290545?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item4ac2a6ca31&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_939

 

[ImperialCrown]

All would be useful, but the wiring diagrams are in the one marked 'Service Manual'. If the power locks got into a BCM problem the Body Diagnostic Procedures book would help somewhat but without the scan tool (DRB III or equivalent), you wouldn't get too far. The p/windows don't go through the BCM.
Check your main local library's search website for the service manual (2001-2006 JR should be similar) or they may have Mitchell or Motor manuals with the wiring diagrams for routing, connector locations and wire colors.

 

[msg123456]

Thanks, so a DRB III scan tool would be worth to purchase you think? Oh, they are expensive though aren't they..

 

[ImperialCrown]

Very expensive. Don't go there yet.
Get the wiring diagram and remove the door trim panel (the service manual will cover that too) to test for p/lock voltage at the latch and p/window voltage at the master switch.

 

[msg123456]

Thanks again Imperial, appreciate it. Will keep you posted after I have a look at it. have to wait for it to warm up a bit here first...

 

[msg123456]

Took the boot off between the door and the body and found two broken wires and a number of wires with cracked insulation. Now the challenge is getting the wires in a position to repair them. Has anyone ever removed the two wire harnesses that connect to the body? I have a picture to attach but not sure how to attach to my message.

Thanks,

Max

 

[msg123456]

Got the wires connected up. Turned out to be three wires broken, and probably 4 or 5 wires that were cracked so I taped them up. Everything working again luckily.

Now just have to figure out how to get the rubber boot back on. Does anyone have any tricks for getting the boot back on the body side?

Thanks again for all of your help Imperial. Really appreciate it.

Max

 

[ImperialCrown]

Some silicone spray should lube the rubber grommet enough to slip it back into the door jamb hole.
I have had mixed luck with repairing door harness wires as the wires tend to keep breaking.
The problem with soldering the splice is that the solder stiffens that portion of the wire and the splice will keep breaking at the point just before the solder joint.
The door harness body-side connector should be under the dash, next to the fuse block. Unplugging it will give you more room to work with the harness. You may wind up replacing wires instead of doing splice repairs for a more permanent fix. You want the harness to flex uniformly and not 'knee', as that will break wires again. Wrapping the harness in tape and convolute tubing will help to distribute the bending forces across a wide area of the harness from the opening and closing of the door.

 

[msg123456]

Thanks Imperial,

Are you talking about replacing the wires from the door jamb to the switches in the door? I am not sure how to get the connector off of the plastic piece that mounts under the rubber grommet?

 

[msg123456]

Took the boot off between the door and the body and found two broken wires and a number of wires with cracked insulation. Now the challenge is getting the wires in a position to repair them. Has anyone ever removed the two wire harnesses that connect to the body? I have a picture to attach but not sure how to attach to my message.

Thanks,

Max

Hi there, I made a mistake by removing the black connector that the rubber grommet mounts onto. I got the rubber grommet back on but now it does not seal to the body. Must have damaged the tabs or something on it. I guess I could add some sealant to it rather than trying to replace it.