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2005 pt cruiser 2.4L Turbo GT cranks, no start...changed valve gasket + 4 plugs & gaskets

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2005 pt cruiser 2.4L Turbo GT cranks, no start...changed valve gasket + 4 plugs & gaskets
cranks, but seems not getting gas. I put a hose to gas cap, turn key to get 12v to fuel pump it seems to cycle on 3-4secs ok
so i guess i shud buy a fuel pump and see if i can install it easy place & bypass old one where ever it is? sfsabean gee mail
any help much appreciated need to get running so i can apply for job. thx in adv steve
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. . . .2005 pt cruiser 2.4L Turbo GT cranks, no start...changed valve gasket + 4 plugs & gaskets
cranks, but seems not getting gas. I put a hose to gas cap, turn key to get 12v to fuel pump it seems to cycle on 3-4secs ok
so i guess i shud buy a fuel pump and see if i can install it easy place & bypass old one where ever it is? sfsabean gee mail . . . .
Do not start replacing parts randomly until you have diagnosed and determined the reason for the NO START condition. Was the engine running before the valve cover / camshaft cover gasket replacement? If YES then recheck all your work. You have created an electrical problem which is keeping the engine from starting.

If you replaced the valve cover / camshaft cover gasket you had to remove the upper intake manifold, throttle body and other devices to gain access. Are all electrical connectors attached firmly to respective sensors and with no broken wires?

If no broken wiring and all sensors have attached wiring connectors, try this test. Loosen and remove the throttle body inlet air tube. Put a 5 second squirt of starting fluid into the throttle body inlet. Loosely reattach throttle body air tube inlet. Attempt to start the engine.

If the engine starts, runs a few seconds and then dies, you have determined that the problem is with fuel delivery to the engine. The engine has spark and is timed correctly since it will run on starting fluid. Report your findings. See attached image.

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How is the fuel pressure in the lines & rail? If you hear the pump prime in the back on key-on, it may be OK.
Safely measure the fuel pressure. If the fuel injectors aren't squirting, you still won't get fuel.
Does it briefly fire up with a shot of solvent/cleaner in the throttle body?
Did the ign coil & cam sensor connectors get mistakenly swapped?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank you very much, my car sat for 2yrs, so thought it would start like always, i am old school...dribble gas above carburator. so was discouraged to spray into throttle body. i am sure i did it b4, but for some reason youtube had me replace gasket [ i thought it looked pretty good, so pulled S.plugs and they were corroded fr 0.05 to 0.08 so good i replaced them]
tomorrow i will gap between hose[air] n Throttle.body to sray some gas...and see if get a start or momentary start. I sure appreciate you'll helping me. I will let you know
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How is the fuel pressure in the lines & rail? If you hear the pump prime in the back on key-on, it may be OK.
Safely measure the fuel pressure. If the fuel injectors aren't squirting, you still won't get fuel.
Does it briefly fire up with a shot of solvent/cleaner in the throttle body?
Did the ign coil & cam sensor connectors get mistakenly swapped?
i dont have a guage to measure
i did measure low ohms ignition coils center to right pin & centre to left pin both same few ohms
is it easy to test/see fuel injectors squirting?
thank-you
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
sorry late getting back, i was running on little sleep
i'm waiting for ride to get throttle spray to ensure ignition HV to plug & spark to gap a fire/turnover
presently puzzling is key 3x spits out 627, 481, 480, 685 & 562 while OBD2 displays 481, U1100, 480, 700, U1100, 481, 480 & 562

so my best guess is that my hose to ear only suggested 12v to fuel pump ok and some logic worked to time-out this V aft. a few sec's
does this also suggest my fuel pump relay received the key on [ 12v to relay coil ] and the contacts send 12v to pump = relay also fer sure good?
leaving me with f.pumping too little or no fuel [U1100-no fuel level data] looks other codes are resultants?


i wish i didnt have to crawl under and try figure out how to remove/replace pump but if ness will do
 

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There is a lot of seemingly unrelated electrical issues going on. Double check your work. Make sure that the wiring harness isn't pinched or disconnected in the engine compartment.
Check all fuses & make sure that all is good.

Did you mean fault code U110C instead of U1100? Even with no fuel level signal, the pump should still pump.
There is too much here wrong to be a coincidence. Charge the battery. Look for something related to the work that was done.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thx for reply, i did look U1100 and U110C did give no fuel level bus/data msg i believe yes same
i am shaky senior and think the cable going across valve cover could be wrong place as wifey nagged ... did you take pic's so you can put stuffs back...so her fault b/c i dont listen
it seems an odd stretch but dont think i missed/left any cables/connectors not connected

can i pour some gas in a little spray bottle to give throttle body a couple shots...see if engine turnover?
i dont think my 05 turbo has valve for fuel pressure either
your dgm above does show fuel pump relay coil [run/start a21] received 12v & sent 12v to fuel pump module motor[which i heard at the gasCap]

i guess U110C instrument cluster above your diagram is the main or biggest problem no or little fuel pressure & this is probably in the gas tank maybe this is the
frCableWithOrangeWireToIgnitionCoil.jpg
and i have it wrong somehow?

thx for pics' and help much appreciated
steve
thx everbody yer too kind
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
it's cool to see below:
Fuel pumps
A Body: Duster, Valiant, Dart, etc

i grewup S'Side PEI, on budd had a duster demon, another slant6 valiant & another a Dart which i think they reintroduced recently. And Demon with the extra crate of goodies might be the fastest stock car ever. me i had a gremlin, woe stop laughing it was pretty pepee. 304
wife threatened to divorce if i didnt shave Zappa off my face and wants to scrap my pt but i do love it chrome in n out is very cool...ld'd leather all toys...and moves out nice too.
 

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Back in post #3, I had asked about the possibility of the 3-wire ignition coil connector being mistakenly swapped with the 3-wire camshaft position sensor.
This is really easy to do because both will reach either component and both connectors are the same exact part number.
The only way to tell for sure is by checking the wire colors (see below).
Please don't ask me how I found out about this. ;)
Rectangle Pink Violet Font Magenta

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i was cheering for you to be right
the camPos sensor is a few inches fr cable [ i never touched it

the ignition coil i broke taking off ... so it matched going back on lol
the conductors match also centre grn / orange otherside blu/tan other other-side blk/wh


so sad
 

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. . . .is this the sphinkter pressure valve? . . . .
This line with green cap is the access port for the evaporative fuel vapor system. You use this port to introduce smoke into the system to check for leaks. See attached image.

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Did you perform the test in post #2, dated Jan 18, 2023? This request outlined a procedure for injecting starting fluid into the throttle body to determine if the engine will run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This line with green cap is the access port for the evaporative fuel vapor system. You use this port to introduce smoke into the system to check for leaks. See attached image.

View attachment 92639

Did you perform the test in post #2, dated Jan 18, 2023? This request outlined a procedure for injecting starting fluid into the throttle body to determine if the engine will run.
i am waiting for some from daughter next time she visits but wonder can i put some gas in spray bottle and spray a couple shots n try turn over
 

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Just use caution around flammables. Any unexpected spark or backfire can fireball.
A couple of tablespoons should get it to fire-up briefly? No Jay Lenos please.
Erase the codes and see what comes back. There is too much wrong for just a fuel pump problem.
You may have introduced an ASD relay fault (P0685) if you were testing/jumping it with the key-on.
The hi/low radiator fan relay codes (P0480/P0481) aren't right. Are they new?
There are also fault codes in the TCM (P0700) that we don't yet know what they are.
Too much unrelated stuff is usually from something stupid happening to the wiring harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
wow a few codes in cpu made the car not even crank...crap cpu
ok so i cleared them - sprayed gas in body with throttle open...crank but not turn over
try again wife start while i Leno spary with fingers open throttle...no turn over

had her turn key, i hear fuel pump motor...so back to original
the scanner P0562 odd is odometer key 3x ... done is so quick, i dont think it is reading but whatever
i am in better spirits, w/o any spirits to celebrate or anything to celebrate YET

so i guess now i can assume the ignition isnt firing fumes/gas
i shud pull i plugwire, screwdriver in plugwire, screwdriver near ground to see an arc? if i shake n touch driver direct on ground ????? danger to car ?????
dont care me any more

happy Friday Yah'll
 

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You need the basic four components for an engine to start. AIR, FUEL, COMPRESSION and SPARK. First thing it sounds like you need to check is spark. And it needs to be a nice, blue/white color. Yellow/Orange means it's weak and WILL NOT fire off.
 

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Since you didn’t mention it sounding funny when cranking or backfiring with the gas I think it’s unlikely the timing belt went. I’d concentrate on ignition, like the crank sensor.
 
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