2005 pt cruiser 2.4L Turbo GT cranks, no start...changed valve gasket + 4 plugs & gaskets
cranks, but seems not getting gas. I put a hose to gas cap, turn key to get 12v to fuel pump it seems to cycle on 3-4secs ok
so i guess i shud buy a fuel pump and see if i can install it easy place & bypass old one where ever it is? sfsabean gee mail
any help much appreciated need to get running so i can apply for job. thx in adv steve
You should try my wife after I explain the orange yeller spark lite n ignition is weak fail replace. She says battery. Any way I sent text p/u ignition Coil. I am listening to Johnny Cash and he told me to mix another Cesar drink. I will be back asap afterwards replace ignition. Happy Friday n enjoy my Caesar Drink: wifey as I can have beer if n I want 🎱
Check grounds on the left strut tower for corrosion. These have been know to cause a myriad of issues as this is a major ground point for the PCM. Might be beneficial to check all of the engine compartment ground points.
replaced ignition coil...same crank, no try start at all
i ran 6guage fr batt -ve to gnd chassis
i peaked peep hole belt is moving and if just one pop sound after cranking up 10sec's is bad timing i dont know? it isnt backfire which is biggest indicator
my batt is crap i know
but i have an old charger trickle / 10 A / 20A pwr boost jump both of these are so so
but i have a new $200 SLA battery charger/air compressor that allows the starter to crank n crank
as for the above dgm ign.coil
i have it correctly as original = as per your diagram
someone mentioned crank sensor
i mentioned i didnt need to remove the connector and know i didnt
but any measurements with my meter? continuity or voltages?
i cleared any codes and now no codes butt the no turn over is starting to eat my lunch grrr
i shud put fire insurance on and spray gas throttle and pour bunch gas in easy access 1 & 4 plugs, blow it up and get my part$ money back...oh yeah you rite $500 deductable
so i mentioned i had a crappyTire charger was good to start my beerHolder mower
i also have a new sealed Lead acid [ SLA ] charger box sd 1000cca for misLead $ales
reality is 600 crank amps 1st crank & discharge rapidly / crank.
as a know-it-all tech [ old school radio TV ] i assumed par'll battery, SLA charger & electric charger with who knows how much ripple[ac component] possible trigger error codes...
...with just the fully charged portableSLA charger on my weak battery measure 10.6vdc
i pulled +ve off batt. & conn direct to charger
i cranked n cranked to view video of my 12v drop to 7v
stop crank 7v back to 12v - meaning cca = poopies
...well my pellet gun isnt big enough to get my pea brain in oneshot & couldnt find my wire brush to scrape the egg off my face. I am so very sorry to not listen to you all re battery. Even my wife said just b4 i was sent to bed, i needed a new battery
i'll get a boost and see if i can get past this, what shudda been step one. i must also measure current draw no key / nothing on, my guess should be mA.
not enough, i'm still dry
i put a dip stick shop towel down the hole [ removed plug ]
key to activate pump, ck'd for fun
key to crank, blew my test jig out of hole...but still no fuel
maybe i'll retest with weight to keep stick/straw in hole
any step by step conditions for fuel out of tank, into sparkplug cavity?'
blkDgm shows fuel tank - canister - purge solenoid - throttle body
and - air & #3 SoL & purge again
now i assume all need 12v and / 5v logic/cpu computer
if anybody has detailed this in their manual, think i can have a fighting chance
or if yer richer than fuel, drive/fly up n fix in min's for the pleasure of embarrassing me, i'll fill the tub wt beer n whiskey=boilerMakers
i'm not sure pump is pumping, only that it must have power to pump b/c i can hear it activate pump[motor] and timeout whether it actually pumps fuel out i dont know are the injectors top left corner 2, 3, 1 and are they aka solenoids? maybe i could swap #3 with #1 or #2 ? sorry to torment everybody, i only changed brakes b4 n it took abnormal time to do simple i appreciate the help - steve
Those 3 control solenoids shouldn't prevent the car from starting.
The fuel pressure can be tested with an 'in-line' adapter between the fuel hose & the fuel rail.
A local auto parts store may have a kit for loan?