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2005 pt cruiser 2.4L Turbo GT cranks, no start...changed valve gasket + 4 plugs & gaskets

1338 Views 53 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  sfsabean
2005 pt cruiser 2.4L Turbo GT cranks, no start...changed valve gasket + 4 plugs & gaskets
cranks, but seems not getting gas. I put a hose to gas cap, turn key to get 12v to fuel pump it seems to cycle on 3-4secs ok
so i guess i shud buy a fuel pump and see if i can install it easy place & bypass old one where ever it is? sfsabean gee mail
any help much appreciated need to get running so i can apply for job. thx in adv steve
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Let's get back to the basics here.
You say the car sat for 2 years.
You are getting an odd assortment of codes.
You are getting weak spark.

Charge the battery fully and do a load test. I'll bet the battery is no good - enough to crank but not provide good spark.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
You should try my wife after I explain the orange yeller spark lite n ignition is weak fail replace. She says battery. Any way I sent text p/u ignition Coil. I am listening to Johnny Cash and he told me to mix another Cesar drink. I will be back asap afterwards replace ignition. Happy Friday n enjoy my Caesar Drink: wifey as I can have beer if n I want 🎱
 

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Was there any fuel 'wetness' on the spark plug tip?
Can you see the timing belt turning the cams by peeking through the peep hole on the timing belt cover?
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
replaced ignition coil...same crank, no try start at all
i ran 6guage fr batt -ve to gnd chassis
i peaked peep hole belt is moving and if just one pop sound after cranking up 10sec's is bad timing i dont know? it isnt backfire which is biggest indicator
 

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Charge and load-test the battery.
 

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Plug wire routing & firing order OK?
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
my batt is crap i know
but i have an old charger trickle / 10 A / 20A pwr boost jump both of these are so so
but i have a new $200 SLA battery charger/air compressor that allows the starter to crank n crank

as for the above dgm ign.coil
i have it correctly as original = as per your diagram

someone mentioned crank sensor
i mentioned i didnt need to remove the connector and know i didnt
but any measurements with my meter? continuity or voltages?

i cleared any codes and now no codes butt the no turn over is starting to eat my lunch grrr
i shud put fire insurance on and spray gas throttle and pour bunch gas in easy access 1 & 4 plugs, blow it up and get my part$ money back...oh yeah you rite $500 deductable
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
so i mentioned i had a crappyTire charger was good to start my beerHolder mower
i also have a new sealed Lead acid [ SLA ] charger box sd 1000cca for misLead $ales
reality is 600 crank amps 1st crank & discharge rapidly / crank.

as a know-it-all tech [ old school radio TV ] i assumed par'll battery, SLA charger & electric charger with who knows how much ripple[ac component] possible trigger error codes...
...with just the fully charged portableSLA charger on my weak battery measure 10.6vdc

i pulled +ve off batt. & conn direct to charger
i cranked n cranked to view video of my 12v drop to 7v
stop crank 7v back to 12v - meaning cca = poopies

...well my pellet gun isnt big enough to get my pea brain in oneshot & couldnt find my wire brush to scrape the egg off my face. I am so very sorry to not listen to you all re battery. Even my wife said just b4 i was sent to bed, i needed a new battery

i'll get a boost and see if i can get past this, what shudda been step one. i must also measure current draw no key / nothing on, my guess should be mA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
not enough, i'm still dry
i put a dip stick shop towel down the hole [ removed plug ]
key to activate pump, ck'd for fun
key to crank, blew my test jig out of hole...but still no fuel
maybe i'll retest with weight to keep stick/straw in hole

any step by step conditions for fuel out of tank, into sparkplug cavity?'
blkDgm shows fuel tank - canister - purge solenoid - throttle body
and - air & #3 SoL & purge again
now i assume all need 12v and / 5v logic/cpu computer
if anybody has detailed this in their manual, think i can have a fighting chance
or if yer richer than fuel, drive/fly up n fix in min's for the pleasure of embarrassing me, i'll fill the tub wt beer n whiskey=boilerMakers
 

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I am not sure I follow what you are saying or trying to do. If your point is the fuel pump is pumping fuel, but the cylinders are dry of gasoline, then the injectors are not firing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
i'm not sure pump is pumping, only that it must have power to pump b/c i can hear it activate pump[motor] and timeout whether it actually pumps fuel out i dont know are the injectors top left corner 2, 3, 1 and are they aka solenoids? maybe i could swap #3 with #1 or #2 ? sorry to torment everybody, i only changed brakes b4 n it took abnormal time to do simple i appreciate the help - steve
 

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Those 3 control solenoids shouldn't prevent the car from starting.
The fuel pressure can be tested with an 'in-line' adapter between the fuel hose & the fuel rail.
A local auto parts store may have a kit for loan?
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
i pulled the fuel rod x4 injector coils 11 ohms ok
i did run no leak fr any injector
i did start to watch all shoot fuel [ i think good amount pressure ] in sequence

but if critical 50-60psi i'll try borrow guage
i was pleased to see fuel thou...thx for pushing me
 
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