[sfsabean]

pulled a plug set on rad cap the spark was about 3 - 4mm best guess it was closer to orange yellow than blue white
i can send video email/text to whomever

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Let's get back to the basics here.
You say the car sat for 2 years.
You are getting an odd assortment of codes.
You are getting weak spark.

Charge the battery fully and do a load test. I'll bet the battery is no good - enough to crank but not provide good spark.

 

[sfsabean]

You should try my wife after I explain the orange yeller spark lite n ignition is weak fail replace. She says battery. Any way I sent text p/u ignition Coil. I am listening to Johnny Cash and he told me to mix another Cesar drink. I will be back asap afterwards replace ignition. Happy Friday n enjoy my Caesar Drink: wifey as I can have beer if n I want 🎱

 

[ImperialCrown]

Was there any fuel 'wetness' on the spark plug tip?
Can you see the timing belt turning the cams by peeking through the peep hole on the timing belt cover?

 

[Gerry G]

Check grounds on the left strut tower for corrosion. These have been know to cause a myriad of issues as this is a major ground point for the PCM. Might be beneficial to check all of the engine compartment ground points.

 

[sfsabean]

replaced ignition coil...same crank, no try start at all
i ran 6guage fr batt -ve to gnd chassis
i peaked peep hole belt is moving and if just one pop sound after cranking up 10sec's is bad timing i dont know? it isnt backfire which is biggest indicator

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Charge and load-test the battery.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Plug wire routing & firing order OK?

 

[sfsabean]

my batt is crap i know
but i have an old charger trickle / 10 A / 20A pwr boost jump both of these are so so
but i have a new $200 SLA battery charger/air compressor that allows the starter to crank n crank

as for the above dgm ign.coil
i have it correctly as original = as per your diagram

someone mentioned crank sensor
i mentioned i didnt need to remove the connector and know i didnt
but any measurements with my meter? continuity or voltages?

i cleared any codes and now no codes butt the no turn over is starting to eat my lunch grrr
i shud put fire insurance on and spray gas throttle and pour bunch gas in easy access 1 & 4 plugs, blow it up and get my part$ money back...oh yeah you rite $500 deductable

 

[ImperialCrown]

 

[sfsabean]

battery?

 

[sfsabean]

so i mentioned i had a crappyTire charger was good to start my beerHolder mower
i also have a new sealed Lead acid [ SLA ] charger box sd 1000cca for misLead $ales
reality is 600 crank amps 1st crank & discharge rapidly / crank.

as a know-it-all tech [ old school radio TV ] i assumed par'll battery, SLA charger & electric charger with who knows how much ripple[ac component] possible trigger error codes...
...with just the fully charged portableSLA charger on my weak battery measure 10.6vdc

i pulled +ve off batt. & conn direct to charger
i cranked n cranked to view video of my 12v drop to 7v
stop crank 7v back to 12v - meaning cca = poopies

...well my pellet gun isnt big enough to get my pea brain in oneshot & couldnt find my wire brush to scrape the egg off my face. I am so very sorry to not listen to you all re battery. Even my wife said just b4 i was sent to bed, i needed a new battery

i'll get a boost and see if i can get past this, what shudda been step one. i must also measure current draw no key / nothing on, my guess should be mA.

 

[chuzz]

How many beers did you have before that last post? LOL

 

[sfsabean]

not enough, i'm still dry
i put a dip stick shop towel down the hole [ removed plug ]
key to activate pump, ck'd for fun
key to crank, blew my test jig out of hole...but still no fuel
maybe i'll retest with weight to keep stick/straw in hole

any step by step conditions for fuel out of tank, into sparkplug cavity?'
blkDgm shows fuel tank - canister - purge solenoid - throttle body
and - air & #3 SoL & purge again
now i assume all need 12v and / 5v logic/cpu computer
if anybody has detailed this in their manual, think i can have a fighting chance
or if yer richer than fuel, drive/fly up n fix in min's for the pleasure of embarrassing me, i'll fill the tub wt beer n whiskey=boilerMakers

 

[valiant67]

I am not sure I follow what you are saying or trying to do. If your point is the fuel pump is pumping fuel, but the cylinders are dry of gasoline, then the injectors are not firing.

 

[sfsabean]

i'm not sure pump is pumping, only that it must have power to pump b/c i can hear it activate pump[motor] and timeout whether it actually pumps fuel out i dont know are the injectors top left corner 2, 3, 1 and are they aka solenoids? maybe i could swap #3 with #1 or #2 ? sorry to torment everybody, i only changed brakes b4 n it took abnormal time to do simple i appreciate the help - steve

 

[sfsabean]

re solenoid
i guess #3
and i should see 12v somewhere w.r.t gnd
and if wife cranks i can listen screwdvr my ear for switching
but that's as far as i can think ?

 

[sfsabean]

wish there was a fuel pressure test
the right side of the fuel injector rod - appears capped so no fitting
the left side not sure i only see a couple connectors 2.4L turbo

 

[ImperialCrown]

Those 3 control solenoids shouldn't prevent the car from starting.
The fuel pressure can be tested with an 'in-line' adapter between the fuel hose & the fuel rail.
A local auto parts store may have a kit for loan?

 

[sfsabean]

i pulled the fuel rod x4 injector coils 11 ohms ok
i did run no leak fr any injector
i did start to watch all shoot fuel [ i think good amount pressure ] in sequence

but if critical 50-60psi i'll try borrow guage
i was pleased to see fuel thou...thx for pushing me