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Discussion Starter #1
I have just bought a 2005 Touring Edition that is currently not running. I was told that he was sitting at a stop sign and it just quit. It would turn over but not fire. He thinks that it is the timing belt. If it is the timing belt and it just quit running at the stop sign. What are the odds that it didnt mess up the valves? just a thought. I bought the car for 350 bucks. I hope I got a good deal.
 

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Welcome to Allpar.
ENGINE DESCRIPTION
The 2.4 Liter (148 cu. in.) in-line four cylinder engine is a double over head camshaft with hydraulic lifters and four valve per cylinder design. The engine is free-wheeling; meaning it has provisions for piston-to-valve clearance. However valve-to-valve interference can occur, if camshaft are rotated independently.

There should be a small plastic cap that you can remove from the center of the upper black plastic timing belt cover. You can get a visual confirmation that the belt and cam sprockets are turning while a helper cranks it over and go from there.
These are valve-to-valve interference engines and valve hits are rare, but still theoretically possible. Valve-to-piston hits aren't possible in the 2.4L.
If valves have bent, the compression may sound weak and uneven while cranking. A compression test may confirm this.
Always replace the water pump and idler pulley that ride on the belt, just so you don't have to do it again later. It is difficult in a driveway the first time. You will need a service manual, tools, crankshaft pulley puller, floor jack, jack stands and a nice day to do it.
 

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Buying a non running 01 PT Cruiser for $350 appears to be an interesting gamble. If you your self make the timing belt repairs you may have a steal. If you have to have others make the repair your still better off than a $1500-$2K purchase but only if other maintenance items have been addressed by the PO.

I picked up a 01 for the wife from a bum who did not make any maintenace efforts. Altho I make the repairs it's been a fair trade off with the mileage we've gotten out it thusfar. However, I have put alot of parts into her PT battlewagon.

I have gotten bogus diagnostics from the Ft Lauderale dealer, (after the purchase), initially and have never returned. I use the vehiicles self-diagnostics and the local parts shops which now offer OBD2 scanners for free hoping you'll buy parts from them and have done well ro keep the battlewagon running.

The rebuild advice from IC is good. Pay special attention to the crankpulley removal if you've never done the operation before.

Good luck with your repairs.

Mr2Tim
SupercharZed ToyZ RacZing
A Toyota Race Team since 1986
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just had the Cruiser towed over to a friends house. He is a real mechanic and willing to do the job for me at a greatly reduced rate. I should know more on what it is going to cost in the next few days. Ill keep everyone posted on how it is going. and i get a few pics here and there.
 

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Update. He had a good chance to look at it. said the belt was broken and there was no other damage with the valves or head. But there was something that he called a wishbone or something like that. It has to do with reverse and forward ????? both of those needed replaced as well. But he is doing the entire job parts included for 475.00.. sounded good to me. so after all said and done ill have right at a grand in the car. im excited.
 

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$475 for the timing belt alone would be a good price.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ITS ALIVE !!!! all is good the timing belt is fixes and its running great. thats the good news. the bad news. after pulling a vacume on the AC. and chrging the system. the fan isnt coming on when the AC is on. it will come on when the engine gets hot enough and needs the fan to run for cooling. Im thinking of a relay or something. Ill get out there in the morning and look at it a little more. But its running and i have less then 1,000 bucks in it so far.
 

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Is the compressor coming on? Check fuses?
There is an inline High-side A/C pressure transducer that signals the PCM when to turn the condenser/radiator fan on and off. These may or may not set a fault code (any 'ck eng' light)?
They get 5 volts in, ground and a variable (0.5-4.5v) signal out depending on pressure.
 
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