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I have a 2006 PT Cruiser with 103k miles. I purchased the vehicle from the previous owner well over a year ago. The previous owner was religious about maintenance and most of the 40k he put on the vehicle were highway miles.

The other day I repaired some issues with the vehicle. My Ex put sugar in the gas tank after a fight we had and I pulled the tank, cleaned it, inspected it and replaced the fuel pump.
Also, while troubleshooting a rough-idle condition, I pulled the intake manifold off and checked the spark plugs. I found a leaking valve cover gasket, replaced it and all 4 plugs. While the plugs were out I cleaned out the plug tubes (2 were filled with oil from the leaking gasket).

Once the job was complete, I started the vehicle and revved it to clean out the oil/cleaner mixture that was in the combustion chamber. As expected, the MIL came on and the codes showing were a C-4 misfire and a B1/S2 O2 code. Both expected because of the contaminants in the combustion chamber. I cleared the codes and took it for a test drive long enough to complete the I/M Readiness monitors with no issues.

Shortly after completing the test drive, I took my grandmother on a drive with the car (it's going to her) and the MIL came on and the trans went into limp-mode.

Scanned the code when I got home and it was a P0700 MIL request from the TCM. Unfortunately my scanner is VAG specific and can't read the Chrysler TCM. I cleared the code, checked the fluid level, checked the harness connectors at the transmission (just in case, even though I hadn't messed with them) and took it for another test drive.

The transmission seemed to be shifting smoothly, but since I was paying attention I noticed some odd qualities to the shifts. The shift from 1st to 2nd seemed to lag a little bit, but there was no increase in revs or hard shift like you would see in a failing shift solenoid. I also noticed a shudder under hard acceleration (akin to a resonant shake like when a tire is out of balance). Other than that, the car ran well. My grandmother drove it today and it went back into limp mode.

I am attempting to find someone local who has a scanner I can borrow to scan the TCM, but I figured I'd share this issue here to see if anyone could shed light on common Auto Trans issues with these cars.

The Transmission was serviced at about 75k miles (right before I purchased the car). It has given no issues in the time I have owned it until now.
My first impression from the way the vehicle is acting is a failing Torque Converter, or possibly a failing pump.

Any input would be much appreciated.

Regards.
 

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Unfortunately without scanning the transmission codes, there’s not much that can be done. How old is the fluid? Was ATF4 always used in the car?
 
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The fluid is a little over 2 years old. (About 25k miles) and yes, ATF+4 is what was used.
 

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Many auto parts stores are able to pull codes from the tcm.

If the trans was serviced before you bought the car, how are you able to note atf+4 was used?
 

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Many auto parts stores are able to pull codes from the tcm.

If the trans was serviced before you bought the car, how are you able to note atf+4 was used?
The mechanic who serviced the vehicle is a good friend of mine.

The problem with Auto Stores is that the ones that can scan are too far away to drive to in limp mode and clearing the DTCs prior to going is counterproductive. Not to mention that there is a good chance to damage the transmission further by operating it.

If I can't find someone nearby that I can use their scanner, I will purchase a new scanner that can read Trans codes.
 

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Reason I asked about the atf+4 is that if atf+4 was not used transmission issues may crop up 1-2 years later.
 

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I have driven vehicles in 'limp-in' about 50 miles (round trip) to the shop and back before. The rpms are up there around 3000-3200 @ 55-60 mph, but well below redline. Engine temperature stayed normal.
As long as there are no hydraulic or mechanical issues with it using 2nd gear, it should not damage the transaxle.
At what shift or gear does it enter limp-in? If the torque converter clutch is not engaging when warm at about 45 mph, it will turn on the 'ck eng' light, but it shouldn't go into limp-in.
 

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Welcome to the forum :)

Why don't you try resetting the PCM and TIPM, it won't cost you anything except a little bit of time.

Disconnect the battery, and touch both cable ends together for at least 90 seconds. Leave battery disconnected.

Then disconnect the PCM and leave it disconnected for at least 1 hour:



After 1 hour is up, reconnect the PCM connectors, paying particular attention to the NOTE: in the above pic.

Then reconnect the battery.

Then do a Quick Learn for the transmission. Normally the Quick Learn requires a trip to the dealership or access to a DRBIII scan tool:



But this process has also been known to help, it's from PTCL:



 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have driven vehicles in 'limp-in' about 50 miles (round trip) to the shop and back before. The rpms are up there around 3000-3200 @ 55-60 mph, but well below redline. Engine temperature stayed normal.
As long as there are no hydraulic or mechanical issues with it using 2nd gear, it should not damage the transaxle.
At what shift or gear does it enter limp-in? If the torque converter clutch is not engaging when warm at about 45 mph, it will turn on the 'ck eng' light, but it shouldn't go into limp-in.
The MIL lit shortly after starting the car and driving it. The shift from 1st to 2nd is my best guess. I believe NAPA does code scanning, so I will be taking it tomorrow morning to have it scanned for codes. I have also driven vehicles in "limp mode" for periods of time with no issues, but I won't take the chance unless it is absolutely necessary.

I've ordered an inexpensive scanner that reads multiple modules from most manufacturers. I don't have the means, at this moment, to buy a good bi-directional scanner, but it is on my list of things to get in the next few months. Probably with my Tax return.

Welcome to the forum :)

Why don't you try resetting the PCM and TIPM, it won't cost you anything except a little bit of time.

Disconnect the battery, and touch both cable ends together for at least 90 seconds. Leave battery disconnected.

Then disconnect the PCM and leave it disconnected for at least 1 hour:



After 1 hour is up, reconnect the PCM connectors, paying particular attention to the NOTE: in the above pic.

Then reconnect the battery.

Then do a Quick Learn for the transmission. Normally the Quick Learn requires a trip to the dealership or access to a DRBIII scan tool:



But this process has also been known to help, it's from PTCL:



Thank you for the welcome. My Foxwell scan tool can clear and reset codes from most makes and models. It's just a VAG (Volkswagen-Audi Group) specific tool and cannot read codes from anything but the Main OBDII PCM. Most of the work I do and most of the vehicles I own are VAG, so it made sense at the time I purchased the Foxwell.

After clearing the codes and resetting the PCM, I drove the PT Cruiser for about 10 to 15 miles to see if it came back. It did not at that time, but while I was at work yesterday, my grandmother drove the vehicle to do some local errands and it set within 10 miles.

I will update this thread with any new information as I get it. Even if I figure it out myself, because it could help someone else in the future.

The reason for posting this thread, before getting the codes and doing more troubleshooting, was to see if there were any common problems with PT Cruiser transmissions that I am unaware of. I have done research and found that they tend to have Torque Converter issues, which makes sense to me due to the lack of any issue prior to this and the vague symptoms that are presented during driving.

Unfortunately I was not the one who operated the vehicle while it was owned by me. It was operated by my ex, so I don't have much driving experience with it prior to passing it on to my grandmother.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I drove the vehicle this morning to Auto Zone to have it scanned.

The scan returned the P0700 as well as P0882 (TCM Power Input Signal Low)

Although the MIL was lit with transmission codes, the transmission was not in limp mode. It is still experiencing a slight shudder during acceleration.

I am going to troubleshoot the P0882 within the next few days and will post any findings.

As before, any input is appreciated including any known issues with these transmissions.
 

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I drove the vehicle this morning to Auto Zone to have it scanned.

The scan returned the P0700 as well as P0882 (TCM Power Input Signal Low)

Although the MIL was lit with transmission codes, the transmission was not in limp mode. It is still experiencing a slight shudder during acceleration.

I am going to troubleshoot the P0882 within the next few days and will post any findings.

As before, any input is appreciated including any known issues with these transmissions.
I sent you a PM with a link to download a copy of the PT Service Manual, hopefully it will help with the troubleshooting.

Page 21-337 is about the P0882 code.

One of the items mentioned is about replacing the PCM, because the TCM is incorporated into the PCM.

I bought one several years ago off Ebay for my PT for around $150 (lifetime warranty) and it was truly plug-n-play and I have had no issues with it.

If your PT needs a PCM, there are many available on Ebay or similar sites. Some have you send in your PCM with the intent to "repair" it, but they don't actually do any "repairs" and will then tell you that your PCM can't be repaired, and need a replacement.

Forum member "myckee" also sells reprogrammed PCM's for PT's, he's a very reliable guy to deal with and has helped many PT'ers. You can send him a PM through this website if you want to use his services.
 

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There are a couple of older threads about P0700/P0882 here:
In Ken's case, it turned out to be a failed TIPM. Always diagnose first.
 

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There are a couple of older threads about P0700/P0882 here:
In Ken's case, it turned out to be a failed TIPM. Always diagnose first.
I have read those threads already, thank you.

My grandmother contacted me to let me know the MIL turned off.

My suspicion, at the moment, is that there is a wiring issue in the engine compartment. Prior to the transmission codes, I had been working on the engine's top-end and the wiring to the TPS, MAF, Coil Pack and other sensors I had to disconnect run into or are attached to the transmission wiring loom. My first step in diagnosing the 0882 will be to check the battery and charging system health, then removing the battery and air-cleaner to access the wiring that runs to the transmission to check for issues.
 

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Good luck finding a scanner you can afford which will read transmission codes. If you do find one, please post it here as I need one, have been looking for many years with no luck.
 

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There is a ground point in the engine compartment on the left fender that has a tendency to corrode due to its proximity to the battery. I agree with your checking the battery and alternator, most mopars do not tolerate low voltage and will throw misc codes.
 

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There is a ground point in the engine compartment on the left fender that has a tendency to corrode due to its proximity to the battery. I agree with your checking the battery and alternator, most mopars do not tolerate low voltage and will throw misc codes.
You'll see it when you remove the airbox. There are several wires into just a couple of eye terminals. While they might look secure, give a slight tug on them to ensure they are still connected.

 

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. . . .My suspicion, at the moment, is that there is a wiring issue in the engine compartment. . . . .
Code P0882 indicates there is low voltage on the power feed circuit to the transmission control section of the PCM. Check wiring using attached image as a guide. Look for wire abrasion, rub through which can cause a current leakage / voltage drop to ground. Inspect pins and receptacles of connector C102.

TIPM to TCM Wiring 2.gif
 

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There is a ground point in the engine compartment on the left fender that has a tendency to corrode due to its proximity to the battery. I agree with your checking the battery and alternator, most mopars do not tolerate low voltage and will throw misc codes.
There is a ground point in the engine compartment on the left fender that has a tendency to corrode due to its proximity to the battery. I agree with your checking the battery and alternator, most mopars do not tolerate low voltage and will throw misc codes.
I had this weird Honda Accord US Wagon - that's what it was badged as. Made in Ohio, apparently.

Talk about dodgy earths! Honda's are prone them, in my experience - I think it was a built in feature designed to distract you that the rest of the car was rusting away while you spent fruitless hours trying to start it, or getting the starter motor in and out. Soon got over that, and it'll be a cold day in hell before I buy another Honda.

I had the first generation Accord, and it was a nice, nice car, but the metal mice ate it.

All the Hondas I've owned since were built like bicycles underneath, had stupid design feature that made them easy to steal. and/or were just DULLLLLLLL!

Made a Toyota Camry look like something interesting, in comparison.

Hope you get it sorted.

Cheers, Andy
 

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Concentrate on the Active codes for now. Some of the Stored codes may be meaningless for the P0882 diagnosis.
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the wiring harness and connector terminals.
Loosen the ground stud/screw fasteners a couple of turns and retighten. Sometimes corrosion can hide unseen/unsuspected under terminals. Disturbing the connection, may re-establish a good contact.
 
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