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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I am new to the group and am looking for help. I bought my 2006 Jeep Liberty 3 years ago. I had a vibration in the rear and had an appointment to take it in to the shop on the 24th. Unfortunately my daughter was driving it to the gas station going about 20 mph and the back axle broke. The engine cut off immediately. There were lights and dash lights but when you turn the key there is nothing, no crank. I had it towed to the shop and they are trying to work it in. They haven't figured out why it isn't starting yet. Note to say it isn't a jeep dealer. I'm afraid it's going to cost me a fortune before they fix the axle. I'm thinking by my research it is to do with an auto mechanism to stop fuel in an accident so there isn't a fire. Anyone have any suggestions. Could it be the starter or fuel pump relay or fuse? I had read that there was a way to reset the ignition switch to the fuel pump by cycling the key. Anything I can figure out will save me before the guy gets to working on the axle. Is this from the ASD relay shutting everything down for safety and if so what do I do to fix it? I bought My Jeep 1 1/2 years after losing my husband, honestly the first vehicle I have owned myself. I love it. I am on a very tight income and any input here would be great. I have done repairs that I can get to myself on here before with youtube videos on simple things. Right now however my health is a bit limited and the axle job is a shop job for sure but thought I could at least figure out why she isn't starting, especially if it's a safety feature causing it. Sorry for the long post, hoping someone else has had a similar issue. Thanks for taking the time to read it.
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Welcome to Allpar. Two seemingly unrelated problems.
Axles usually don't break on their own, so it may be a failed rear wheel bearing (or more). We have to wait on the diagnose in order to choose the best way forward.

On the no-start, an engine needs 3 things: spark, fuel and correct mechanical timing/compression to start and run. The PCM will turn on the ASD (automatic shut down) relay if it sees engine rotation from the CKP (crankshaft position ) sensor. It will shut down the ASD relay if it loses the CPS signal (i.e. - the engine stops turning).
Old Fords used to have a manual fuel pump reset button in the trunk. Jeeps is all done by software.
You should hear a soft 'hum' in the rear for a second when first rolling the key to 'run'. This is the fuel pump running to prime and pressurize the fuel lines.

You can have good fuel pressure in the lines (about 50 psi or 350 kPa), but if the fuel injectors stay shut, the engine will still not get fuel. It will crank over but not start.
If it has spark and the engine is mechanically ok, it should fire up and run briefly if you spray a shot of something flammable (like carburetor or throttle body cleaner) into the throttle body before you crank the starter over. Use safety cautions when handling flammables.

If it is capable of firing up like this, then you have to find out why it is not getting fuel.
 

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There is no accident cut off for fuel on your Jeep. It’s something Ford used.

I would suspect wiring damage if the axle failure is related to the other problems.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
They haven't even looked at the axle yet, the shop is so busy my appointment wasn't until the 24th to have it looked at and the axle broke before I could get it in. So it's not possible that it's the ASD relay switch on the Jeep? That is causing the no start, there is no crank at all when you turn the key, but I have lights. I guess I wait until they can actually get to it and give me the estimate on he repair job to know how to proceed. I'm going to go over tomorrow and pull out the ASD relay switch and switch it out and see if that does anything but after that point I would hope the mechanic could figure out the starting issue. My worry is it's going to cost me a grand just to get it running before they even get me the estimate on the axle repair work. I had them check about six months ago when they put on new tires, I could hear and feel something in the rear that I knew wasn't right but they said everything was fine when they did the tires. It was probably the wheel bearings and that's what caused the axle failure. So obviously they missed that. I'm getting the feeling at this point it's going to be better to pay off what I owe and see about another loan for a different vehicle. I was trying to avoid that because right now the cost of anything used is through the roof. I appreciate everyone's advice and help, this is driving me crazy. My husband has always worked with this shop when he was alive, and I have dealt with them a lot since and they have always been good and honest but I'm getting frustrated with the lack of being able to figure out the starting issue.
 

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If there is no-crank, it has nothing to do with the ASD relay. If an ASD relay failed, it would still crank over but not fire up.
A no-crank is something in the starter circuit. It has a starter motor relay, but I'm sure that they would have looked at that by now. If you need to verify that relays are working, many of them are the same so just pop one out and swap them. Just remember which one you pulled out.
Fuses # 8 (40A) and # 29 (15A) have to be OK.
The PCM has to see the vehicle in Park or Neutral.
Has it set any fault codes?


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If there is no-crank, it has nothing to do with the ASD relay. If an ASD relay failed, it would still crank over but not fire up.
A no-crank is something in the starter circuit. It has a starter motor relay, but I'm sure that they would have looked at that by now. If you need to verify that relays are working, many of them are the same so just pop one out and swap them. Just remember which one you pulled out.
Fuses # 8 (40A) and # 29 (15A) have to be OK.
The PCM has to see the vehicle in Park or Neutral.
Has it set any fault codes?


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View attachment 81662
If there is no-crank, it has nothing to do with the ASD relay. If an ASD relay failed, it would still crank over but not fire up.
A no-crank is something in the starter circuit. It has a starter motor relay, but I'm sure that they would have looked at that by now. If you need to verify that relays are working, many of them are the same so just pop one out and swap them. Just remember which one you pulled out.
Fuses # 8 (40A) and # 29 (15A) have to be OK.
The PCM has to see the vehicle in Park or Neutral.
Has it set any fault codes?


View attachment 81661


View attachment 81662
Honestly I don't think they have looked at too much yet. They asked about it not starting, I told them until this happened I had had no issues at all, it has always started on a dime and turned over no issues. Thanks for the info on the ASD there is no crank according to them. We went by yesterday to check for codes but they have the battery run totally dead at this point and couldn't get anything now long enough to get them. I will ask them about the Starter Motor Relay when I talk to them. I don't think I'm going to get too much more info from them until the 24th when my original appointment is scheduled. They are really busy and booked pretty solid. I will post when I have some more info. I really appreciate all the info and details, I research as much as I can myself and watch videos I like to have at least an idea of how to fix things.
 

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. . . I bought my 2006 Jeep Liberty 3 years ago. I had a vibration in the rear and had an appointment to take it in to the shop on the 24th. Unfortunately my daughter was driving it to the gas station going about 20 mph and the back axle broke. The engine cut off immediately. There were lights and dash lights but when you turn the key there is nothing, no crank. I had it towed to the shop and they are trying to work it in. They haven't figured out why it isn't starting yet.. . .
I would agree with previous assessments that the axle noise is totally unrelated to sudden engine stop running. The Jeep Liberty had 2 and 4 wheel drive versions. Even if your vehicle is 4 wheel drive, it was being driven in 2 wheel (rear wheel) drive mode. The rear axle is semi-floating and if one of the rear axle shafts snapped then the vehicle would coast to a stop. The engine through the transmission would turn the rear drive shaft but do to differential action with one free axle it would not turn the opposite driving wheel. But highly unlikely that an axle shaft has broken.

You indicated that the engine just suddenly quit. That points to an electrical failure of some nature in the vehicle. This power failure is also affecting the starter circuit, either load side or control side. First area to check is the main fuses in the vehicle power distribution center that provide power. There are several high amp load fuses that provide power to the starting circuit, ASD relay, PCM, etc. If one of those fail that would cause the engine to stop running immediately.

If a main fuse has failed next question is to determine "why" it failed? Short circuit to ground, wire rub through, poor connection at electrical connector, corrosion in wiring, break in wire, etc. This is the real challenge in automobile diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would agree with previous assessments that the axle noise is totally unrelated to sudden engine stop running. The Jeep Liberty had 2 and 4 wheel drive versions. Even if your vehicle is 4 wheel drive, it was being driven in 2 wheel (rear wheel) drive mode. The rear axle is semi-floating and if one of the rear axle shafts snapped then the vehicle would coast to a stop. The engine through the transmission would turn the rear drive shaft but do to differential action with one free axle it would not turn the opposite driving wheel. But highly unlikely that an axle shaft has broken.

You indicated that the engine just suddenly quit. That points to an electrical failure of some nature in the vehicle. This power failure is also affecting the starter circuit, either load side or control side. First area to check is the main fuses in the vehicle power distribution center that provide power. There are several high amp load fuses that provide power to the starting circuit, ASD relay, PCM, etc. If one of those fail that would cause the engine to stop running immediately.

If a main fuse has failed next question is to determine "why" it failed? Short circuit to ground, wire rub through, poor connection at electrical connector, corrosion in wiring, break in wire, etc. This is the real challenge in automobile diagnosis.
I don't have a lot of details, though they did say the rear axle had broken. I know I have power to the lights and the dash but nothing on turning the key. Right after it happened it had no crank when you turned the key. My daughter was driving I will try and pin her down again on whether the engine just quit or she coasted to a stop. I do know that after when you turned the key the lights came on and dash but no crank. Saturday I am on the schedule so we will see what they say. I know electrical issues are a pain to track down sometimes, I was hoping on this being a safety shut off issue to do with the axle breaking, like in an accident. Though there was no collision here. I'm going to assume they will check the fuses etc., first when figuring out the starting issue. Though the first conversation I had with the mechanic was looking at the starter, alternator those things themselves. Not sure if they don't do a lot of work on vehicles with sensors and stuff. From having a previous van with sensor issues I know they can cause a lot of the issues for electrical failures. Will post more as I know anything. I really appreciate all the help and input. Thanks!
 

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Without knowing exactly how the axle failed, is it possible the transmission was damaged? If so, the transmission may not be properly shifting into park which would explain a no crank situation.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Without knowing exactly how the axle failed, is it possible the transmission was damaged? If so, the transmission may not be properly shifting into park which would explain a no crank situation.
I don't think so it was running fine until then. Had no problems with shifting or anything to make me think it would be transmission. We had a vibration in the rear end, I had called the garage and they couldn't get me in until the 24th. We hadn't been driving it much because of the vibration. I'm sure that is something to do with the axle failing. If it's much more then the axle replace and what ever caused it to fail and minor electrical to get it starting I don't know that I can afford to do the repairs, I'm torn between repair or replace. Not the best time to be looking for a decent used vehicle however. I will probably not know more until Saturday when they get time to look at it really.
 

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I don't think so it was running fine until then. Had no problems with shifting or anything to make me think it would be transmission. We had a vibration in the rear end, I had called the garage and they couldn't get me in until the 24th. We hadn't been driving it much because of the vibration. I'm sure that is something to do with the axle failing. If it's much more then the axle replace and what ever caused it to fail and minor electrical to get it starting I don't know that I can afford to do the repairs, I'm torn between repair or replace. Not the best time to be looking for a decent used vehicle however. I will probably not know more until Saturday when they get time to look at it really.
If the rear axle locked up while it was being driven, it can damage the transmission whether there was a transmission problem before the axle filed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If the rear axle locked up while it was being driven, it can damage the transmission whether there was a transmission problem before the axle filed.
Not to sound stupid here but when you say locked up, the axle broke it was hanging off the vehicle. Would being locked up cause it to do that? If the transmission is shot then this is junk. hopefully will know on Saturday more of what is going on. I am guessing from what the vehicle was doing previously and why we were trying to get it in is the wheel bearings. If they had gotten that bad they could have caused the axle to go couldn't they have? I had the front bearings done a year ago and I asked them about the back then and they said they weren't bad. But this had started having a vibration and a noise especially when accelerating and all the sudden it had gotten bad. Which was why it was going into the shop. Just not quick enough.
 

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The axle is hooked to the transmission via the driveshaft. If whatever failed in the axle cause the axle to either stop spinning or move position, the driveshaft is going to do something.
It may pull out of the transmision and not cause any problems. Or the driveshaft could cause damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The axle is hooked to the transmission via the driveshaft. If whatever failed in the axle cause the axle to either stop spinning or move position, the driveshaft is going to do something.
It may pull out of the transmision and not cause any problems. Or the driveshaft could cause damage.
Thanks. I don't think I even want to hear what they have to say Saturday! I'm hoping for he best but preparing for the worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok so here is the latest from the shop on the 2006 Jeep. They just called and said it was the Rear drive shaft that broke and they are replacing the U Joint. They can't get it started because there is a bundle of wires, like a harness hanging down which must have happened with the rear drive shaft broke. They don't do wiring. Another shop in town does and can tow it over there and let me know what it would cost to fix. $75 for tow, which my AAA might cover and $50 for estimate. Anyone have an idea what that bundle of wires is? Or how fixable it might be? I haven't researched it yet at all. It's a relief to know it wasn't the axle which was what they originally said obviously without really looking at it. The repairs are much cheaper. If the electrical can be done without costing a fortune I will have come out lucky. And I have to say how much I appreciate everyone's input and help on this. A sounding board of knowledge is always a good thing to have! Now on to do more research! Any input on the wiring issue greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.
 

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I have seen propeller shafts let go and tear a wiring harness out with it. It certainly is repairable and not nearly as bad as having a broken axle and having to hunt down a tough electrical problem.

If the universal joint fractured and the shaft fell out at higher speeds, the outcome could have been much worse.

A LOT worse:


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Thank you! I feel much relieved now! We were blessed. She was going really slow when it happened. Just wish we had already had it in the shop! But for sure the outcome is much better then I feared!
 

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. . . They just called and said it was the Rear drive shaft that broke and they are replacing the U Joint. They can't get it started because there is a bundle of wires, like a harness hanging down which must have happened with the rear drive shaft broke. They don't do wiring. Another shop in town does and can tow it over there and let me know what it would cost to fix. $75 for tow, which my AAA might cover and $50 for estimate. Anyone have an idea what that bundle of wires is? Or how fixable it might be? . . .
Which U-joint failed on the driveshaft: front near the transmission tail shaft or the rear at the differential? If the rear joint failed and the drive shaft was flopping wildly I cannot image what wiring other than rear lighting that would be affected in a wiring harness. If the front U-joint failed near the transmission tail shaft I could image that the flopping drive shaft somehow got entangled in the transmission control wiring. Multiple circuits probably shorted together and to ground so you probably have a number of failed fuses in the PDC ( power disribution center).

Fixing wiring is not difficult but takes time and patience. Some wires can be spliced together. Other wires may have more damage and a new replacement section added. Hopefully when all the short circuits happened in the wiring entanglement, the PCM (powertrain control module) was not permanently damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It was the rear drive shaft that failed. I'm going to have it towed over the the place that does the electrical work on Thursday. They will at least give me an estimate before they do the work so I know where I stand. Plus my mechanic said he needs it back when they get it started to drive it to make sure everything is ok. He replaced the u joints. But said until he can drive it he won't feel good about making sure all the repair work has been done to make sure the same thing doesn't happen again.
 
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