[gezco]

So got in the van yesterday and the check engine light was on. I don't normally drive the van, the wife said it's been on for a few days. Went to Autozone and they told me it was an EGR Valve code, P0404 I think. I didn't feel like dealing with this yesterday, so I ran some sea foam through the intake, disconnected the battery and crossed my fingers. The light isn't on now, but I'm guessing what I did will not help at all and the light will come back on. Is there any point in cleaning the EGR valve or should I just replace it? Will that help? Anyone have any insight? The van has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Thanks.

 

[Doug D]

Replace it. Cleaning it seldom works. At least it never did for me.

 

[vipergg]

I agree replace it . Chrysler must get their egr's from china. This is a very common problem . My last 2 mini's with the 3.3 liter have had egr issues.

 

[gezco]

I agree replace it . Chrysler must get their egr's from china. This is a very common problem . My last 2 mini's with the 3.3 liter have had egr issues.

Thanks. That sort of begs the question, should I buy a Mopar EGR valve or go for the $69 Autozone one. The check engine light hasn't come back on, but I'm sure it will before the weekend.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

The orifice may be clogged, and if so, a new valve won't help. Try cleaning the orifice behind the EGR first.

 

[Doug D]

Thanks. That sort of begs the question, should I buy a Mopar EGR valve or go for the $69 Autozone one. The check engine light hasn't come back on, but I'm sure it will before the weekend.

I had to replace the EGR on my '06 Ram Hemi - P0406 code - a few years ago. At the time the EGR was a dealer only item. Haven't had any problems with it since. Of course, Advance Auto and AutoZone now list it at $40 last I checked. I paid $77 for it at a local mom-n-pop dealer. The big dealers wanted between $95-$100 for the same part.

As Bob mentioned it wouldn't hurt to check the orifice, but more than likely you'll need to replace the EGR.

 

[valiant67]

When I had to replace the EGR on my 99 3.8 van, I ordered from rockauto.com. I can't recall what part brand I picked (I think it was AC Delco) but the EGR that showed up was in a Mopar box for about the same price as the local "off brand" part.

 

[gezco]

So it's been over a week and over 300 miles and the check engine light hasn't come back on. All I did was run the Seafoam through it and disconnect the battery. I can't believe the Seafoam would have fixed it. I'm thinking the light will be coming on again soon.

 

[georgef]

All I did was run the Seafoam through it and disconnect the battery.

What do you mean by this? Did you put the Seafoam in the gas tank or feed it thru a vacuum port? Or did you remove the EGR valve and clean it with the Seafoam?

Thanks,
George

 

[gezco]

What do you mean by this? Did you put the Seafoam in the gas tank or feed it thru a vacuum port? Or did you remove the EGR valve and clean it with the Seafoam?

Thanks,
George

I removed a vacuum hose with the engine running and let it suck about 60% of a bottle of Seafoam into the intake. I shut the van off and let it sit for about 5 minutes. I then drove the van about 5 miles and disconnected the battery. I let the van sit for 5 minutes and reconnected the battery. I did nothing with the EGR valve. I did not put any Seafoam in the gas tank.

 

[valiant67]

Any time I've had an EGR code (98 Neon 2.2, 99 Town & County 3.8, 05 Chrysler 300C 5.7) the check engine light would come on and then go out repeating many times. It took a long time, especially on the 99 van, before the check engine light stayed on for the EGR code making me think it's a gradual failure and may still work properly for a while before the next time it trips the light.

 

[Dave Z]

Right. I can see EGR taking a long time to really die, going through gradual steps of now-and-then failure.

I have a couple of extra Mopar EGR valves but I haven't figured out which V6 engines they go with yet.

The one on our 2006 3.8 is OK as was the one on our Neon at 1x0,000 miles, so whatever problems are happening, they aren't universal. Common but not universal. It is a part that I suspect is very much influenced by fuel quality and driving style and location, given what it does.

 

[gezco]

Any time I've had an EGR code (98 Neon 2.2, 99 Town & County 3.8, 05 Chrysler 300C 5.7) the check engine light would come on and then go out repeating many times. It took a long time, especially on the 99 van, before the check engine light stayed on for the EGR code making me think it's a gradual failure and may still work properly for a while before the next time it trips the light.

Thanks. I think I'll just pick one up and replace it next weekend. We're taking the van cross country this summer and I don't want to have a code come up while we're on the road.

 

[georgef]

I removed a vacuum hose with the engine running and let it suck about 60% of a bottle of Seafoam into the intake. I shut the van off and let it sit for about 5 minutes. I then drove the van about 5 miles and disconnected the battery. I let the van sit for 5 minutes and reconnected the battery. I did nothing with the EGR valve. I did not put any Seafoam in the gas tank.

Thanks.

George

 

[ImperialCrown]

These are an electric stepper motor-driven EGR valve called a 'Linear' EGR valve. They are not a conventional vacuum diaphragm-actuated EGR valve.
The P0404 is an electrical fault and not a carbon/flow-caused fault. It may return. I agree that you should check the wiring first and replace the valve if no other problems are found, this EGR failure may be intermittent. It usually is the valve itself.
See 'Causes' under this link (they are all electrical open/short related):

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0404

 

[gezco]

Any time I've had an EGR code (98 Neon 2.2, 99 Town & County 3.8, 05 Chrysler 300C 5.7) the check engine light would come on and then go out repeating many times. It took a long time, especially on the 99 van, before the check engine light stayed on for the EGR code making me think it's a gradual failure and may still work properly for a while before the next time it trips the light.

Guess what happened today, 8 months later? The check engine light came back on with an EGR code. Now i wish I would have replaced it when it was 70 degrees outside instead of doing it this week end when the high will be 34.

 

[Mark Digatono]

What in hells creation does a person have to do to fix this problem? replaced the valve cleaned the tube cleaned the port and still the same code and same problems.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Welcome to Allpar. Same year and model of vehicle as in this thread?

 

[Mark Digatono]

2010 Town and Country, 3.8l V6, I have replaced the valve, reset the code multiple times and it continues to fail. cleaned out the tube, and the exhaust port.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Non-flex fuel? What is the fault code?
I see no factory bulletins or upgrades on this EGR. Make sure that the part that you are replacing states that it is an OEM part. It doesn't necessarily have to be Mopar, but I would trust a Mopar valve more than aftermarket.
Also follow the fault code diagnostics. This could be a possible engine compartment wiring/connector or PCM (rare) problem. Carboned-up tubes weren't really a problem for Chrysler. I saw a lot of GM V6s with carbon-plugged tubes.
I see a part # of 4593896AB for your valve. Make sure that the part you get mentions this number as replacement coverage:

Amazon.com: Genuine Chrysler 4593896AB EGR Valve: Automotive (at https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler-4593896AB-EGR-Valve/dp/B00FZMGF20/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Chrysler%7C39&Model=Town%20%26%20Country%7C2490&Year=2010%7C2010&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive )