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Oh how I loathe the caliber. Once again I get home to an issue with my wife's caliber. At first glance not a big deal a headlight bulb and a turn signal burned. Now for the odd stuff. The car gives a message stating the right turn signal is out and it is when you use the turn signal. However when you lock the car or unlock it the turn signal bulb turns on and stays on just like the other one. The only difference is that the left one blinks twice but the right one stays solid. The other odd part is that the right head light is also off both low and high. So I figure one of the bulbs shorted and now the circuit is off. I replaced both turn and headlight and disconnected the battery and tied the leads together for about 20 min with no change. The turn light is only on when locking and unlocking the car and the headlight is also still completely ooff. Also both lights went out at the same time so I am assuming is is something they have in common. Any positive suggestion would be appreciated because all I am coming up with involves a gallon of gasoline and a lighter or a tall cliff or possibly one of the Great Lakes.
 

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. . . . At first glance not a big deal a headlight bulb and a turn signal burned. Now for the odd stuff. The car gives a message stating the right turn signal is out and it is when you use the turn signal. However when you lock the car or unlock it the turn signal bulb turns on and stays on just like the other one. The only difference is that the left one blinks twice but the right one stays solid. . . .
The turn signals and headlamps are controlled by the totally integrated power module (TIPM). If you do a search on-line with keyword TIPM there are lots of comments about failed TIPM units across all Chrysler vehicles about 10 years ago. So the problem lies with the TIPM.

You indicated that you get a message stating that the right turn signal is out and the signal does not flash when activated. The only way the TIPM software logic can know this is by resistance. The TIPM monitors the resistance in the circuit and if it becomes too high (corrosion) or too low (open circuit) then it disables activation of that circuit and sets a message (probably a diagnostic code is also set in TIPM).

I would inspect the TIPM and remove all connectors at the TIPM. Clean all male pins / spade terminals and clean all the corresponding mating receptacles. You might get lucky and fix the problem in this fashion.

Imperial Crown who is a valued contributor to Allpar forums posted a link ( I believe) about 1 year ago to a wiring diagram for a 2007 Caliber.

Found the link. Scroll to the post made by ImperialCrown on Jan 28, 2016. Reference is given to service manual for 2007 Caliber. Chapter 8 is wiring diagrams.

Gimme a Brake! ( Compass rear Caliper )
 

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Mom no longer drives, so I wound up with her '07 Caliber. It has been a good car, although not a great car. It is my daily driver and I have grown to appreciate the car.
Diagnosis first. The TIPM may be in 'protection' for the headlamp due to shorted wiring in the harness? There have been reports of wire rub-through behind the battery where the harness lays against underhood sheetmetal. Exposed copper corrodes and opens. Damp climates, road salt and proximity to the battery can accelerate this corrosion.
The TIPM and instrument cluster (CCN module) can store fault codes that might point to the area needing investigation. An advanced scan tool is needed to query these modules.
Many electronic functions have been moved to the CCN (cabin compartment node) and it functions as the 'BCM' (body control module) for the car.
The problem is likely something simple. It is unusual for a module itself to fail and although that is still possible, everything else must be ruled out first.
 

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I agree with IC about the wire bundle running through the driver side fender. I used to own a Caliber and am STILL a member of a Caliber forum. There have been a lot of complaints about the wiring in that area and problems similar to yours. Remove the battery and battery tray and have a look at the wires where they go through the fender. You will probably want to jack it up, remove the wheel and the splash liner too in order to do a thorough inspection. For some reason, Mopar didn't leave enough slack in that wire bundle and sometimes they rub and short out or simply break. My 08 was a very good vehicle, but it got killed in a head on at 65,000 miles. I'd only had one or two minor problems with it before then. One was a loose fender liner and the other was a faulty blower motor.
 
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