[Mike O.]

I have a 2007 PT cruiser Touring Edition that I just purchased last week.
When I'm at a stop sign and take off,
I immediately hear and feel a pop in what sounds like the front right of the car.
Same if I'm driving at a speed of under 20 mph and I let off the gas pedal and then push it back down...pops again?
It drives smooth, doesn't pull to the right or left at full speed...I do feel a pretty good vibration when it reaches 50 -55, then it completely disappears at 56 and above?
Could this be a wheel bearing.. ( doesn't make a growling sound at driving speed that ive read some have said ), a broken motor/transmission mount or ????
Any opinions would be appreciated.
Otherwise, I truly like the car...rides extremely rough, but still like it.
Thanks to all

 

[chuzz]

It might be a control arm bushing. I'd suggest you get up under it and start looking at the suspension.

 

[valiant67]

Bushings were quite soft in these cars and deteriorated quickly. You can replace with new rubber bushings or poly ones that will last forever but may be noisier and harsher riding.

 

[Mike O.]

It might be a control arm bushing. I'd suggest you get up under it and start looking at the suspension.

Thank you !!

 

[Mike O.]

Bushings were quite soft in these cars and deteriorated quickly. You can replace with new rubber bushings or poly ones that will last forever but may be noisier and harsher riding.

Thank you!

 

[pt006]

Mike O; the rear lower control arm bushing can be checked visually by turning the wheel all the way and looking behind the tire at the bushing. If it looks as if a large flat washer [2" diameter] is laying on the frame rail, then the bushings have to be replaced. You tube must have videos. Changing the whole arm is easier. Moog makes an upgraded arm with a spherical bushing. Probably more harsh.

The motor mount struts should be checked. I believe this is your problem. Pop the hood and watch the top of the engine as you go from drive to reverse applying a small amount of torque. It should move ~ 1/2" if the struts are ok. Listen for noise too. If the struts need to be replaced, remember to adjust them to the correct dimension.

The anti-sway arm bushings and links have been a problem for some people.

CV joints and/or tire balance can cause vibrations at speed. Check tie rod ends and ball joints and the usual stuff. Be safe. I think you will like the car once you get the bugs worked out.

 

[pt006]

Mike; the rough riding can be improved by swapping tire/rim sizes. Get her safe first.

 

[Mike O.]

Mike O; the rear lower control arm bushing can be checked visually by turning the wheel all the way and looking behind the tire at the bushing. If it looks as if a large flat washer [2" diameter] is laying on the frame rail, then the bushings have to be replaced. You tube must have videos. Changing the whole arm is easier. Moog makes an upgraded arm with a spherical bushing. Probably more harsh.

The motor mount struts should be checked. I believe this is your problem. Pop the hood and watch the top of the engine as you go from drive to reverse applying a small amount of torque. It should move ~ 1/2" if the struts are ok. Listen for noise too. If the struts need to be replaced, remember to adjust them to the correct dimension.

The anti-sway arm bushings and links have been a problem for some people.

CV joints and/or tire balance can cause vibrations at speed. Check tie rod ends and ball joints and the usual stuff. Be safe. I think you will like the car once you get the bugs worked out.

Well, I tried what you suggested and the engine in drive definitely rocked forward way more than 1/2 inch....not as bad doing the same test in reverse....
I called a local Chrysler dealership and asked them for a ball park GUESS on replacing the motor mounts...the sound is coming from the passenger side front...he told me that motor mount was the cheapest priced one, HOWEVER... it showed a 9 - 10 hour labor time...said the whole repair would be between 1200 - 1400 to have fixed...
Guess that's why the previous owner traded it in... ( and then depression sat In... :-( )

 

[ImperialCrown]

Don't just assume that the right motor mount is bad without diagnosis. It usually is deteriorated control arm bushings.
image006.jpg
The reason that the motor mount is such high labor is that it is inside the frame rail and the engine has to be moved out of the way to service it. The service manual says to remove the engine.
Always diagnose first.

 

[Gerry G]

It may not be the motor mount but rather the torque struts (I believe pt006 referred to these as motor mount struts). First check/replace the upper and lower torque struts. If they are worn or broken the motor will rock more than 1/2". Much easier to get to and replace, 1-2 hours labor, and may likely be the cause of the excessive motor rocking.

Hope this helps,

Gerry G.

 

[ImperialCrown]

If you apply the brake and give it throttle, can you make the 'pop' happen? This would be the best way to locate and diagnose the pop.
Have a helper do a 'power brake' while you stand off to the side of the car with the hood up and parking brake applied. By placing your hand on the mount, you should feel the pop. Watch out for spinning belts and pulleys.
If the pop is coming from under the car, take a moment to look for it the next time it is running on a shop lift.

 

[Mike O.]

If you apply the brake and give it throttle, can you make the 'pop' happen? This would be the best way to locate and diagnose the pop.
Have a helper do a 'power brake' while you stand off to the side of the car with the hood up and parking brake applied. By placing your hand on the mount, you should feel the pop. Watch out for spinning belts and pulleys.
If the pop is coming from under the car, take a moment to look for it the next time it is running on a shop lift.

Thank you....we tried this, but it will not repeat the popping noise doing this.
It only happens when it is at a stop and you push the gas pedal...then it makes the pop one time. Also if driving under 20 mph, and you push the gas petal , let off the pedal, push it down again....then the pop sound repeats itself every time? Any speed over that then it doesn't do it anymore.... So I'm really puzzled.
I had a oil change today and a tire rotation done, that helped the vibration in the front end, so that issue appears to be a balance problem as the tires are brand new. Although the dealer put a non brand name tire on the car called....Cilerro Blacklion brand

 

[Mike O.]

If you apply the brake and give it throttle, can you make the 'pop' happen? This would be the best way to locate and diagnose the pop.
Have a helper do a 'power brake' while you stand off to the side of the car with the hood up and parking brake applied. By placing your hand on the mount, you should feel the pop. Watch out for spinning belts and pulleys.
If the pop is coming from under the car, take a moment to look for it the next time it is running on a shop lift.

Thank you

 

[Mike O.]

Thank you

Also as crazy as this sounds, when you first start the car when its colder outside in the morning ( under 60 degrees ) , the popping sound does NOT happen no matter how much you even try to get it to do it, but once it warms up to 70 degrees or higher, the popping sounds returns??
Doesn't make a bit of sense !

 

[ImperialCrown]

Structural joint and bushing noises can be temperature dependent. It is an important clue for making it 'make the noise' so it can be found. Just finding a noise can be 90% of the repair.
Re-torquing crossmember, motor mount and control arm bolts may help.

 

[Mike O.]

Structural joint and bushing noises can be temperature dependent. It is an important clue for making it 'make the noise' so it can be found. Just finding a noise can be 90% of the repair.
Re-torquing crossmember, motor mount and control arm bolts may help.

Thank you again !

 

[pt006]

Mike; look on a parts site [like Autozone] to see what the struts look like. They may be called motor struts or torque struts or similar. The actual motor mounts [2] support the weight of the engine. One on each side. The struts are both on the passenger side on a PT. They keep the engine from twisting [rotating] around the motor mounts. The rubber deteriorates after time and use, allowing the engine to twist more than it should. This will cause clunking and will possibly damage other stuff [like the motor mounts]. Get them changed. Any good garage should be able to do this. Note that the struts are adjustable and must be adjusted together as a pair. The engine must be rotated slightly [not lifted] to align the motor to the chassis. A simple job with a light jack and a 2 x 4 under the FRONT of the engine/trans. The dimension is 4.7" ??? at the top strut location. Check the manual.

Note that if the right motor mount is actually bad, this is a big $$$$ job, and should be done only by someone qualfied.

 

[Mike O.]

Mike; look on a parts site [like Autozone] to see what the struts look like. They may be called motor struts or torque struts or similar. The actual motor mounts [2] support the weight of the engine. One on each side. The struts are both on the passenger side on a PT. They keep the engine from twisting [rotating] around the motor mounts. The rubber deteriorates after time and use, allowing the engine to twist more than it should. This will cause clunking and will possibly damage other stuff [like the motor mounts]. Get them changed. Any good garage should be able to do this. Note that the struts are adjustable and must be adjusted together as a pair. The engine must be rotated slightly [not lifted] to align the motor to the chassis. A simple job with a light jack and a 2 x 4 under the FRONT of the engine/trans. The dimension is 4.7" ??? at the top strut location. Check the manual.

Note that if the right motor mount is actually bad, this is a big $$$$ job, and should be done only by someone qualfied.

Thanks....As far as doing any of this.... I'm not mechanically inclined as they say...
I'd end up causing more issues with it.
Money wise, I'm taking it easy with it hoping not to cause more damage to it. I have to wait until February for my tax refund to get repairs done to it.

 

[twodees]

Mike O; the rear lower control arm bushing can be checked visually by turning the wheel all the way and looking behind the tire at the bushing. If it looks as if a large flat washer [2" diameter] is laying on the frame rail, then the bushings have to be replaced. You tube must have videos. Changing the whole arm is easier. Moog makes an upgraded arm with a spherical bushing. Probably more harsh.

The motor mount struts should be checked. I believe this is your problem. Pop the hood and watch the top of the engine as you go from drive to reverse applying a small amount of torque. It should move ~ 1/2" if the struts are ok. Listen for noise too. If the struts need to be replaced, remember to adjust them to the correct dimension.

The anti-sway arm bushings and links have been a problem for some people.

CV joints and/or tire balance can cause vibrations at speed. Check tie rod ends and ball joints and the usual stuff. Be safe. I think you will like the car once you get the bugs worked out.

I got the Moog control arms with those new sphericals (they also have grease fittings) and found the ride to be better and not harsh at all. At less than $70 each from Amazon, it makes sense to replace the control arm so you have new upgraded bushings and ball joints. Moog's sway bar center bushings and end links are also great and very reasonably priced.

 

[soonercruiser]

Had 5 PT Cruisers here, only 2 new.
Although I have has some worn control arms and bushings....
80% of the time when it pops or clunks when you hit the gas, or put it in gear....it's the engine mounts (torque struts).
With a 2007....replace them all at one time.