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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2008 pt cruiser non turbo hardtop. Keep getting code 0822. Changed both input and output speed sensors. Problem persisted and car keeps going into limp mode. Check grounds, and all harnesses going to tipm. All checked out good. Had tipm sent out to be diagnosed and it came back good. Installed tipm as per shops instructions and now car won't crank. Re learned the security by using fob to lock and unlock doors 10 times. Still won't start. Turn key and just get a noise but starter is not engaging. Anyone have a clue?
 

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I'm a little confused. P0822 indicates a problem with the transmission range sensor. Did you replace the TRS or the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Model)? Okay, I see you had the TIPM tested and reinstalled it. But was the TRS ever replaced? Have you tried to start in neutral?

P0822 code definition The P0822 code indicates a problem with the transmission range sensor. The position that the gear lever is in does not correspond to the gear that the vehicle is operating in.
 

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. . . . Had tipm sent out to be diagnosed and it came back good. Installed tipm as per shops instructions and now car won't crank. Re learned the security by using fob to lock and unlock doors 10 times. Still won't start. Turn key and just get a noise but starter is not engaging. . . . .
The sentry key immobilizer that reads the encoded information in the key fob is NOT part of the TIPM. The immobilizer sensor device is at the physical ignition key lock switch. So removing and reinstalling the TIPM would not generate a need to reprogram a sentry key to the vehicle.

Describe the noise that you are getting when holding the ignition key switch in the START position? Is a repeating clicking sound or just one click? Make sure the positive and negative battery cables are clean and shiny inside. Battery posts need to be clean and shiny. Even though they look clean there could be excessive resistance and preventing high current flow necessary to engage the starter solenoid

The TIPM is located between the air cleaner box tray and the brake master cylinder reservoir. Is it possible that working around the TIPM something bumped the 4 connectors at the PCM and caused a poor connection? Pay particular attention to connector C4 and make sure it is seated properly in its mating to the PCM. See image below.

Font Terrestrial plant Parallel Screenshot Slope
Trip computer Speedometer Odometer Window Gauge


When you turn the ignition key switch to the START position is there a rectanguar box around the instrument cluster gear selector display indicating that the transmission is in PARK or NEUTRAL position?
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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P0717 isn't a valid fault code for a 2008 PT non-turbo & automatic transaxle. The TIPM can store fault codes also, but they may not be OBD2 codes and need a scan tool capable of reading Body codes:


MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM), 40/41TE
  • Diagnosis and Testing
    • P0122-TPS/APP CIRCUIT LOW
    • P0123-TPS/APP CIRCUIT HIGH
    • P0124-TPS/APP INTERMITTENT
    • P0218-HIGH TEMPERATURE OPERATION ACTIVATED
    • P0602-CONTROL MODULE PROGRAMMING ERROR/NOT PROGRAMMED
    • P0604-INTERNAL CONTROL MODULE RAM
    • P0605-INTERNAL CONTROL MODULE ROM
    • P0613-INTERNAL TRANSMISSION PROCESSOR
    • P0706-TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR RATIONALITY
    • P0711-TRANSMISSION TEMPERATURE SENSOR PERFORMANCE
    • P0712-TRANSMISSION TEMPERATURE SENSOR LOW
    • P0713-TRANSMISSION TEMPERATURE SENSOR HIGH
    • P0714-TRANSMISSION TEMPERATURE SENSOR INTERMITTENT
    • P0715-INPUT SPEED SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT
    • P0720-OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
    • P0725-ENGINE SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT
    • P0731-GEAR RATIO ERROR IN 1ST
    • P0732-GEAR RATIO ERROR IN 2ND
    • P0733-GEAR RATIO ERROR IN 3RD
    • P0734-GEAR RATIO ERROR IN 4TH
    • P0736-GEAR RATIO ERROR IN REVERSE
    • P0740-TCC OUT OF RANGE
    • P0750-LR SOLENOID CIRCUIT
    • P0755-2/4 SOLENOID CIRCUIT
    • P0760-OD SOLENOID CIRCUIT
    • P0765-UD SOLENOID CIRCUIT
    • P0841-LR PRESSURE SWITCH RATIONALITY
    • P0845-2/4 HYDRAULIC PRESSURE TEST
    • P0846-2/4 PRESSURE SWITCH RATIONALITY
    • P0868-LINE PRESSURE LOW
    • P0869-LINE PRESSURE HIGH
    • P0870-OD HYDRAULIC PRESSURE TEST
    • P0871-OD PRESSURE SWITCH RATIONALITY
    • P0882-TCM POWER INPUT LOW
    • P0883-TCM POWER INPUT HIGH
    • P0884-POWER UP AT SPEED
    • P0888-TRANSMISSION RELAY ALWAYS OFF
    • P0890-SWITCHED BATTERY
    • P0891-TRANSMISSION RELAY ALWAYS ON
    • P0897-TRANSMISSION FLUID DETERIORATED
    • P0932-LINE PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
    • P0934-LINE PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW
    • P0935-LINE PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH
    • P0944-LOSS OF HYDRAULIC PUMP PRIME
    • P0952-AUTOSTICK INPUT CIRCUIT LOW
    • P0957-ERS CIRCUIT LOW
    • P0992-2/4/OD HYDRAULIC PRESSURE TEST
    • P1684-BATTERY WAS DISCONNECTED
    • P1713-RESTRICTED MANUAL VALVE IN T2 RANGE
    • P1745-TRANSMISSION LINE PRESSURE TOO HIGH FOR TOO LONG
    • P1775-SOLENOID SWITCH VALVE LATCHED IN TCC POSITION
    • P1776-SOLENOID SWITCH VALVE LATCHED IN LR POSITION
    • P1790-FAULT IMMEDIATELY AFTER SHIFT
    • P1794-SPEED SENSOR GROUND ERROR
    • P1797-MANUAL SHIFT OVERHEAT
    • U0002 CAN C BUS OFF PERFORMANCE
    • U0100 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ECM/PCM
    • U0121 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ABS
    • U0141 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH FCM
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The sentry key immobilizer that reads the encoded information in the key fob is NOT part of the TIPM. The immobilizer sensor device is at the physical ignition key lock switch. So removing and reinstalling the TIPM would not generate a need to reprogram a sentry key to the vehicle.

Describe the noise that you are getting when holding the ignition key switch in the START position? Is a repeating clicking sound or just one click? Make sure the positive and negative battery cables are clean and shiny inside. Battery posts need to be clean and shiny. Even though they look clean there could be excessive resistance and preventing high current flow necessary to engage the starter solenoid

The TIPM is located between the air cleaner box tray and the brake master cylinder reservoir. Is it possible that working around the TIPM something bumped the 4 connectors at the PCM and caused a poor connection? Pay particular attention to connector C4 and make sure it is seated properly in its mating to the PCM. See image below.

View attachment 85624 View attachment 85625

When you turn the ignition key switch to the START position is there a rectanguar box around the instrument cluster gear selector display indicating that the transmission is in PARK or NEUTRAL position?
Get 1 audible click when turning key then nothing. Yes the box is around the P on the dash
 

· Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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17,607 Posts
P0882 is power to the transaxle is low. Nothing to do with the speed sensors. The (EATX) relay is probably off for protection. If the TCM doesn't know if it is in Park or Neutral, it won't allow the starter to engage.
The relay will stay off if it senses an issue that could be unsafe or cause damage if the transaxle was powered up.
It is a 'safety' relay.
Have the TIPM scanned for fault codes?

Possibly related TIPM codes:
  • P128B-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 LOW
  • P128C-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 HIGH - 41TE NGC
  • P128D-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OPEN - 41TE NGC
  • P128E-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OVERCURRENT - 41TE NGC
  • P1277-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 LOW
  • P1278-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 HIGH
  • P1279-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OPEN
  • P127A-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OVERCURRENT
Font Rectangle Screenshot Number Electric blue
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
P0882 is power to the transaxle is low. Nothing to do with the speed sensors. The (EATX) relay is probably off for protection. If the TCM doesn't know if it is in Park or Neutral, it won't allow the starter to engage.
The relay will stay off if it senses an issue that could be unsafe or cause damage if the transaxle was powered up.
It is a 'safety' relay.
Have the TIPM scanned for fault codes?

Possibly related TIPM codes:
  • P128B-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 LOW
  • P128C-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 HIGH - 41TE NGC
  • P128D-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OPEN - 41TE NGC
  • P128E-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OVERCURRENT - 41TE NGC
  • P1277-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 LOW
  • P1278-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 HIGH
  • P1279-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OPEN
  • P127A-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OVERCURRENT
View attachment 85631
How do I scan the tipm? It was just sent out to a rebuilder who tested it and said nothing was found to be wrong. They did a complete diagnostic test and it came back as good.
 

· Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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You need a capable scan tool to read TIPM codes. A Powertrain (OBD2) code reader may not have that capability.
Any stored fault codes may have been erased by disconnecting the TIPM or the battery.
The problem may not be in the TIPM itself. It could be in the wiring harness?

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I will have to see if I can get a hold of a good scanner. The car started fine before removing the tipm to have it sent out to be tested. It just kept going into limp mode when driving. Would start up no problem, first try and not a prolonged attempt to start, turn the key and fired right up. All I did was disconnect the battery terminals and unplug all the harnesses to the tipm and had it sent out. When it came back I reinstalled the harnesses and connected the terminals to the battery and the shop I sent the tipm to said to turn the key to accessory position for 12 seconds and then turn off to let the tipm reset without engine noise. Then they said start the car. When I turned the key to start position it gave 1 audible click from the engine bay and nothing. Starter never tried to crank
 

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Check the bundle of grounds on the driver side fender. You'll have to remove the airbox in order to get to them. Perhaps one of more of them is broken or loose. I THINK there's about 7 different grounds there. Check each and every one individually and make sure there's not an internal break in the wire. Clean them and the fender grounding area and reattach.
 

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These PT's are very sensitive to battery charges. If that battery isn't fully charged, you may want to bring it up to a full charge and check that alternator. Charging at 12.66 ain't gonna hack it. Disregard this one if you want to. I see it was another member stating that the alternator on HIS was showing a 12.66 charging output.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I will have to see if I can get a hold of a good scanner. The car started fine before removing the tipm to have it sent out to be tested. It just kept going into limp mode when driving. Would start up no problem, first try and not a prolonged attempt to start, turn the key and fired right up. All I did was disconnect the battery terminals and unplug all the harnesses to the tipm and had it sent out. When it came back I reinstalled the harnesses and connected the terminals to the battery and the shop I sent the tipm to said to turn the key to accessory position for 12 seconds and then turn off to let the tipm reset without engine noise. Then they said start the car. When I turned the key to start position it gave 1 audible click from the engine bay and nothing. Starter never tried to crank
Battery has been on a charge all night. Checked and cleaned the grounds and tried to start it again. Holding the key in the start position it makes 3 clunking noises from the engine bay but still no crank from the starter
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
These PT's are very sensitive to battery charges. If that battery isn't fully charged, you may want to bring it up to a full charge and check that alternator. Charging at 12.66 ain't gonna hack it. Disregard this one if you want to. I see it was another member stating that the alternator on HIS was showing a 12.66 charging output.
Battery has been on a charge all night. Checked and cleaned the grounds and tried to start it again. Holding the key in the start position it makes 3 clunking noises from the engine bay but still no crank from the starter
 

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Well, I'm not a mechanic but have been pulling my own wrenches for 50 years. I have no idea what could be causing a clunking sound if the starter isn't engaging. That makes absolutely no sense to me. Have you tried swapping the starter relay with another one in the fuse box under the hood? Most of the relays are the same part#, so if that doesn't work, you can either swap them back or just leave them where they are. You've got me buffaloed.
 
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