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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2008 pt cruiser non turbo hardtop. Keep getting code 0822. Changed both input and output speed sensors. Problem persisted and car keeps going into limp mode. Check grounds, and all harnesses going to tipm. All checked out good. Had tipm sent out to be diagnosed and it came back good. Installed tipm as per shops instructions and now car won't crank. Re learned the security by using fob to lock and unlock doors 10 times. Still won't start. Turn key and just get a noise but starter is not engaging. Anyone have a clue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The sentry key immobilizer that reads the encoded information in the key fob is NOT part of the TIPM. The immobilizer sensor device is at the physical ignition key lock switch. So removing and reinstalling the TIPM would not generate a need to reprogram a sentry key to the vehicle.

Describe the noise that you are getting when holding the ignition key switch in the START position? Is a repeating clicking sound or just one click? Make sure the positive and negative battery cables are clean and shiny inside. Battery posts need to be clean and shiny. Even though they look clean there could be excessive resistance and preventing high current flow necessary to engage the starter solenoid

The TIPM is located between the air cleaner box tray and the brake master cylinder reservoir. Is it possible that working around the TIPM something bumped the 4 connectors at the PCM and caused a poor connection? Pay particular attention to connector C4 and make sure it is seated properly in its mating to the PCM. See image below.

View attachment 85624 View attachment 85625

When you turn the ignition key switch to the START position is there a rectanguar box around the instrument cluster gear selector display indicating that the transmission is in PARK or NEUTRAL position?
Get 1 audible click when turning key then nothing. Yes the box is around the P on the dash
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
P0882 is power to the transaxle is low. Nothing to do with the speed sensors. The (EATX) relay is probably off for protection. If the TCM doesn't know if it is in Park or Neutral, it won't allow the starter to engage.
The relay will stay off if it senses an issue that could be unsafe or cause damage if the transaxle was powered up.
It is a 'safety' relay.
Have the TIPM scanned for fault codes?

Possibly related TIPM codes:
  • P128B-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 LOW
  • P128C-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 HIGH - 41TE NGC
  • P128D-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OPEN - 41TE NGC
  • P128E-TCM POWER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OVERCURRENT - 41TE NGC
  • P1277-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 LOW
  • P1278-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 HIGH
  • P1279-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OPEN
  • P127A-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT 2 OVERCURRENT
View attachment 85631
How do I scan the tipm? It was just sent out to a rebuilder who tested it and said nothing was found to be wrong. They did a complete diagnostic test and it came back as good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I will have to see if I can get a hold of a good scanner. The car started fine before removing the tipm to have it sent out to be tested. It just kept going into limp mode when driving. Would start up no problem, first try and not a prolonged attempt to start, turn the key and fired right up. All I did was disconnect the battery terminals and unplug all the harnesses to the tipm and had it sent out. When it came back I reinstalled the harnesses and connected the terminals to the battery and the shop I sent the tipm to said to turn the key to accessory position for 12 seconds and then turn off to let the tipm reset without engine noise. Then they said start the car. When I turned the key to start position it gave 1 audible click from the engine bay and nothing. Starter never tried to crank
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I will have to see if I can get a hold of a good scanner. The car started fine before removing the tipm to have it sent out to be tested. It just kept going into limp mode when driving. Would start up no problem, first try and not a prolonged attempt to start, turn the key and fired right up. All I did was disconnect the battery terminals and unplug all the harnesses to the tipm and had it sent out. When it came back I reinstalled the harnesses and connected the terminals to the battery and the shop I sent the tipm to said to turn the key to accessory position for 12 seconds and then turn off to let the tipm reset without engine noise. Then they said start the car. When I turned the key to start position it gave 1 audible click from the engine bay and nothing. Starter never tried to crank
Battery has been on a charge all night. Checked and cleaned the grounds and tried to start it again. Holding the key in the start position it makes 3 clunking noises from the engine bay but still no crank from the starter
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
These PT's are very sensitive to battery charges. If that battery isn't fully charged, you may want to bring it up to a full charge and check that alternator. Charging at 12.66 ain't gonna hack it. Disregard this one if you want to. I see it was another member stating that the alternator on HIS was showing a 12.66 charging output.
Battery has been on a charge all night. Checked and cleaned the grounds and tried to start it again. Holding the key in the start position it makes 3 clunking noises from the engine bay but still no crank from the starter
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well, I'm not a mechanic but have been pulling my own wrenches for 50 years. I have no idea what could be causing a clunking sound if the starter isn't engaging. That makes absolutely no sense to me. Have you tried swapping the starter relay with another one in the fuse box under the hood? Most of the relays are the same part#, so if that doesn't work, you can either swap them back or just leave them where they are. You've got me buffaloed.
After having someone else try and start it the clunking noise is coming from the starter trying to engage . Tapped on the starter and still it just clunks. Guess I have to replace the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I would prove that the starter itself has failed first.
I hate to be a pain, but how do I prove that? I'm not all familiar with trying to diagnose and test new cars. Anything from the 60's and 70's i have no problem with. These new cars with all the computer stuff in it I'm at a loss. I did try and swap the starter relay with another one and got the same result. With someone else turning the key I put my hand on the starter and felt the clunk when they did it. They held the key in the start position and the starter clunker 3 times then stopped
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Tried jumping the starter. All it does it make the solenoid clunk really loud. It does the same thing when you turn the key to the start position. Just clunks
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Put a socket on the crankshaft pulley and get a long handled ratchet or put a pipe over your short ratchet and try to turn the engine over manually. It sounds to me like your engine is locked up for some reason or another. It doesn't make sense to me that with the work you began with would effect it like this. Something has to be either binding the torque converter from spinning or you just have my luck and have a bad starter. I'd pull it off and check it with booster cables. Hook the ground to the starter body and touch the large post on the solenoid with the hot cable. The bendix should run out and spin. You may want to put your foot on it to keep it steady.
Will try it. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
The service procedure to remove directs one to remove it from the bottom which requires removing a structural piece. I was able to remove the starter from the top.

To do so requires removing the grill. There are 2 fasteners at the top of the grill that need to be removed. The grill slides up and unhooks from the front fascia.

There are 2 or 4 fasteners holding the upper radiator support in place at the top. Remove these fasteners and the radiator/fan assembly can be tipped forward to allow sufficient room to remove the starter from the top.

The one bolt at the bottom of the starter will need to be removed from the bottom. Once the starter is loose, it can be maneuvered past the fan while pulling the fan/radiator assembly forward.

There is not much room so patience is required. Pay note to the ground wire attached by the upper bolt.
Thank you
 
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