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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well, I'm not a mechanic but have been pulling my own wrenches for 50 years. I have no idea what could be causing a clunking sound if the starter isn't engaging. That makes absolutely no sense to me. Have you tried swapping the starter relay with another one in the fuse box under the hood? Most of the relays are the same part#, so if that doesn't work, you can either swap them back or just leave them where they are. You've got me buffaloed.
After having someone else try and start it the clunking noise is coming from the starter trying to engage . Tapped on the starter and still it just clunks. Guess I have to replace the starter.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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I would prove that the starter itself has failed first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I would prove that the starter itself has failed first.
I hate to be a pain, but how do I prove that? I'm not all familiar with trying to diagnose and test new cars. Anything from the 60's and 70's i have no problem with. These new cars with all the computer stuff in it I'm at a loss. I did try and swap the starter relay with another one and got the same result. With someone else turning the key I put my hand on the starter and felt the clunk when they did it. They held the key in the start position and the starter clunker 3 times then stopped
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Same as the 1960's, you have a fat and a thin wire going to the starter. The fat wire from the battery has power all the time. The thin wire only has power when the key is in the 'start' position (in this case, the car is probably not letting this happen).
If you run a 12 volt jumper from the battery to the post that the thin wire attaches to, the car should crank. Make absolutely sure that the car is in Park when trying this.


When I had to learn 'digital', my instructor said not to sweat it, it's all just ones and zeros. :)
 

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Put a socket on the crankshaft pulley and get a long handled ratchet or put a pipe over your short ratchet and try to turn the engine over manually. It sounds to me like your engine is locked up for some reason or another. It doesn't make sense to me that with the work you began with would effect it like this. Something has to be either binding the torque converter from spinning or you just have my luck and have a bad starter. I'd pull it off and check it with booster cables. Hook the ground to the starter body and touch the large post on the solenoid with the hot cable. The bendix should run out and spin. You may want to put your foot on it to keep it steady.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Put a socket on the crankshaft pulley and get a long handled ratchet or put a pipe over your short ratchet and try to turn the engine over manually. It sounds to me like your engine is locked up for some reason or another. It doesn't make sense to me that with the work you began with would effect it like this. Something has to be either binding the torque converter from spinning or you just have my luck and have a bad starter. I'd pull it off and check it with booster cables. Hook the ground to the starter body and touch the large post on the solenoid with the hot cable. The bendix should run out and spin. You may want to put your foot on it to keep it steady.
Will try it. Thank you
 

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Is the battery charged?
 

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. . . Something has to be either binding the torque converter from spinning or you just have my luck and have a bad starter. I'd pull it off and check it with booster cables. Hook the ground to the starter body and touch the large post on the solenoid with the hot cable. The bendix should run out and spin. You may want to put your foot on it to keep it steady.
I would agree that the next step is to remove and test starter separately. Here is a lilnk to Y T video for DIY test of starter motor.

 

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The service procedure to remove directs one to remove it from the bottom which requires removing a structural piece. I was able to remove the starter from the top.

To do so requires removing the grill. There are 2 fasteners at the top of the grill that need to be removed. The grill slides up and unhooks from the front fascia.

There are 2 or 4 fasteners holding the upper radiator support in place at the top. Remove these fasteners and the radiator/fan assembly can be tipped forward to allow sufficient room to remove the starter from the top.

The one bolt at the bottom of the starter will need to be removed from the bottom. Once the starter is loose, it can be maneuvered past the fan while pulling the fan/radiator assembly forward.

There is not much room so patience is required. Pay note to the ground wire attached by the upper bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
The service procedure to remove directs one to remove it from the bottom which requires removing a structural piece. I was able to remove the starter from the top.

To do so requires removing the grill. There are 2 fasteners at the top of the grill that need to be removed. The grill slides up and unhooks from the front fascia.

There are 2 or 4 fasteners holding the upper radiator support in place at the top. Remove these fasteners and the radiator/fan assembly can be tipped forward to allow sufficient room to remove the starter from the top.

The one bolt at the bottom of the starter will need to be removed from the bottom. Once the starter is loose, it can be maneuvered past the fan while pulling the fan/radiator assembly forward.

There is not much room so patience is required. Pay note to the ground wire attached by the upper bolt.
Thank you
 

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So, have you figured it out yet? Inquiring minds want to know! LOL
 

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Our local forecasters were predicting snow for us on Sunday and we didn't get one flake! Sorry to hear you got hammered, but I get it. I sure hope it's just your starter. Did you, by any chance, put a socket on the crankshaft bolt and see if the engine turns by hand? I'd highly recommend doing that before yanking the starter. It's a LOT easier to do. Trust me on that!
 
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I would still check the battery, even though you say it's fully charged. Do a load test. You can do this a few ways yourself.
One is to measure the battery voltage with engine off - should be 12.6V. Then turn on headlights. After 10 minutes, should still be above 12.0V.
Another way is to have someone measure battery as you turn the key to start. Voltage should drop to about 10.5 to 11.0 volts (and of course, starter should crank). If it goes lower, either battery is bad or starter is shorted. If it stays above 12 volts, there is an open circuit somewhere with no load on battery.
 
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Also check battery connections at posts. Undo both clamps and clean posts and clamps with a battery brush tool, even if they look good. Re-attach. Then turn on headlights with engine off and measure voltage between each battery post and its clamp. Should be less than 0.1 volts. If more, there is a bad connection.
 
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Stupid as this sounds, I had similar starting issues with a 2006. After making a new run key FOB, it lit right up. I believe the sensor for the fob is at the ignition switch. Same two or three clicks and clunks... I ask no questions after something works.
Just saying...
 
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