[e_bodydude]

Hello, everyone. For the past year my wife's Journey will occaisionally fail to start after the first turn of the key, but will start on the second try. Three weeks ago we were about to head out of town and the battery suddenly became to weak to start the car. We jumped the battery, when the car started, the ABS and traction control light on the dash were lit. We then went went to the autoparts store an bought a new battery and installed it. The Abs and TC light continued to stay on. The following monday, my wife brought the car to the dealer, who diagnosed the problem as a bad speed sensor on the right front wheel and replaced the sensor. Today, after meeting with clients, my wife tried to start the car and the starter clicked if as though the batter were dead again. After a half hour the car started fine. So, does anybody have any idea what is happening with this car(has 40,000 mi on it)

 

[ImperialCrown]

There have been reports of starter terminal corrosion (won't leave behind a fault code) and some WIN (wireless ignition node) module failures for no-starts. The WIN and WCM (wireless control module) can store fault codes.
Did the dealer note any fault codes in the other modules when servicing the ABS?

 

[e_bodydude]

Hi ImperialCrown. My wife says she wasn't told of any other fault codes from any other modules. ( The receipt reads: Cust states C ABS,ESP and BAS lights are on. Advise- Diagnosed and needs Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor- will reschedule.) My wife brought the car to the dealer after the no start episode. The receipt reads: Customer states yesterday Vehicle would not start, just made one single click after sitting for an hour- Waited 20 min and then started- Inspected Vehicle and could not reproduce customers at this time. Found TSB 08-009-12 that will correct this concern. Performed software update as needed.

 

[ImperialCrown]

There are some STAR case histories of failed TRS (transaxle range switch). Maybe try starting the vehicle in neutral instead of park next time?
There is a case history of poor bellhousing-to-battery ground connection and also of starter terminal connections.
None of these items will necessarily set a fault code.
The technician is stuck if he or she can't get the vehicle to act up in the shop.
Of course it could also be an intermittant starter itself. A good whack may get it to crank over.
Problems of an intermittent nature like this can be very frustrating. The best thing you could do would be prepared to diagnose it on the spot the next time it occurs.

 

[e_bodydude]

Thanks for the info ImperialCrown. Would it be a good idea for me to find the bellhousing-to-battery ground and clean them as well as the starter terminal connections. Also, are these kinds of problems common for vehicles with 40k mi on them or can the problems be chalked up to first model year learning curve.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Juma1998 had this issue on his 2009 Journey and they replaced the starter motor for corrosion.
This may be a salt-belt, seaside or otherwise damp climate area problem. Some service depts are aware that this is one of the things you look for when an older Journey is towed in for a no-start. It happens often enough to become 'tribal knowledge'.
If enough people complain to NHTSA, it may become a recall.
I don't have the numbers to know how common the problem really is. See link:

http://www.allpar.co...ge__hl__journey

Also found this TSB:

NUMBER: 08-027-10
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: October 20, 2010

SUBJECT:
No Start No Crank Intermittently
OVERVIEW:
This Bulletin involves inspecting the terminals and if necessary replacing the connector for
the Starter Solenoid or only adding grease.
MODELS:
2009 - 2010 (JC) Journey
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 2.4L engine (Sales Code
ED3 or EDG).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Intermittently the vehicle my not Crank (Turn Over). This may be caused by moisture in the
Starter Solenoid Connector. ​

• 

 

[e_bodydude]

Thanks ImperialCrown. I was always told that the extended warranty and rustproofing were a waste of money. Now, I now know that with these modern super complicated cars that are built today, an extended warranty is a must. Although, while living in the salt belt (as I do), I haven't seen many rusty, newer model cars driving around. So, as far as I can tell, rustproofing is still an unnecessary option. If I buy a new Dart, I'll definitely buy the extended warranty (about $1500 but way worth it). If we had gone for the extended warranty on the Journey, we'd have peace of mind now. I has been costing us about $150 per visit to the dealer and we've been to the dealer three times since the 3\36 warenty expired 4k mi ago.

 

[ImperialCrown]

A service contract (extended warranty) is like an insurance policy. It doesn't cover everything that breaks, but it should cover major assemblies and their internal parts.
I saw some people angry that their $1500 policy didn't cover something like a bad connection, but then I saw other people happy that their policy covered a blown engine. It's a roll of the dice. Anything can happen to a new car old car at any time.
Some unreputable service contract companies will deny a claim outright and then you have to fight with them in order to get partial or full coverage or they are no longer in business or the company changes it's name a couple of times. I've never heard anything bad about the factory service contracts.
The more you know and can do yourself, the better off you are. Service information, know-how and tools are indispensable for cheap car ownership. DIY even for home repairs (I'm learning this a lot right now) can save big bucks.
Vehicle sheetmetal and paint finish have made big strides lately in durability and rust protection. The value of undercoating isn't what it used to be.
In Juma1998's case, the dealer had to replace the very expensive starter in order to get paid by the Chrysler service contract, because the contract would not cover a corroded ~30 cent starter solenoid connector terminal.

 

[Gavin1973]

All,
I have has many issues since I purchased my 09 journey. Brakes wearing quickly, vibration coming from the exhaust that still hasn't be resolved, transmission shifting hard, the radio dying 3 times, overheating the first 1000 miles and finally the straw that breaks the camel back,,,, it doesn't start. Must gets a click.
We'll, I can tell you we bought a bad [I should have my mouth washed out with soap for using such terms] extended warranty that basically covers everything. We bought it through Chrysler which works great. They have made a valiant effort/attempt to assist with trying to correct these problems.
So here are the fixes that national city, ca. dealership has Help me with.
The breaks wearing- had to replace then twice only got 10000 miles on each set. They replaced the break calipers. Under warranty
Transmission shifting- they haven't duplicated my concerns so waiting for them to open eyes and ears...lol
Vibration under exhaust at slow speed- still happening, they replace some bolt but still vibrates
Radio issues- not sure why but 3 of them stop working, all covered under warranty
Overheating- was caused by a faulty hose, replaced and covered under warranty
The starting issues- this has been and still is a problem. It just clicks, like a dead battery. I've taken it to them so many times and they have made me purchased a new key, a new battery and when I go back to them with anew battery and it still clicks it was hmmmm. This last time I told them put it in writing that they will refund my money if it doesn't it again. Well. Since the first time this happen I was on deployment when my wife got stranded. She called a tow truck to jump a dead battery that they couldn't start. They car stayed there the week under ingot home. I started it up without doing anything. She was so mad. Lol. So after a while it started to click on a regular basic. It got pretty nerve racking not knowing if the car would start. What I've have done to start the car you asked. Put you foot on the brake, put the key in turn in on, IF IT DOESN'T START, SHIFT IT INTO NEUTRAL, AND try to START AGAIN...... 95 out of a 100 it will start.
They just replaced my starter last week and now it still messed up. Putting in neutral doesn't work until I shift it through the gears.
That's it for me. I hope this helps you.
Thanks
Gavin

 

[e_bodydude]

Hi Gavin. My wife still loves her 09' Journey. Every once in a while, she turns the key once and nothing happens. On the second turn, the car will start 99.9% of the time. ImperialCrown advised me to check the connection of the starter to the battery for possible terminal corrosion. As of yet I haven't checked. The only other problem was the radiator fluid overflow reservoir started leaking at the area that has all the identification markings, on the side. that happened at about 55K (warranty expired at 36K).

 

[cotonymopar]

Today, my wifes 09 Journey did not start, it turned over fine, but would not fire. I took the dust cover off, and looked for a loose wire, and found nothing. I came out 20 mins later, and started the car by autostart, and it started fine. I left, came back in 30 mins, and the car started fine.

we had the brake problem, but I change my own brakes. I went to auto zone and got new rotors in the front, and have not had a problem since. sill original calipers, and new pads I put on. been on for over 20,000 miles.

ours has the lowering oil level.. when I took off the dust cover, I saw oil residue around the filler. so oil is leaking out of the fill pipe, even when screwed on tight. must need a rubber gasket to seal?

 

[e_bodydude]

Hi Cotonymopar, sorry about the delay in responding (about two years late,wow). Anyway, I took Gavin's advice and shifted into neutral or through the gears, and that his worked every time we've had starting problems. At some point during all of this, my wife took the Journey to the dealer and was finally told that her ignition switch needed to be replaced. Now, we just received a recall notice for the Journey's "wireless ignition node", which is the hole in which you insert the ignition key. The notice reads: "The wireless ignition node module on your vehicle may have unintentional movement of the frequently operated button ignition key from on to accessory position while driving.
On average I've had to replace the brakes once every 20k miles. Part of that has to do with my wife's hard braking habit, instead of gradually slowing down.
I've had no issue with the oil, although I thought I had an issue when I heard ticking coming from the engine. The ticking was apparently coming from the throttle actuator, which has thrown a trouble code( which I posted previously).
We've had several problems with the Journey, but my wife still loves it. I wanted to trade it in, but she wants to keep it and buy a motor home instead.

 

[Twangmaster]

e_bodydude...did the TSB 08-009-12 update on your wife's Journey fix the no start, no crank issue? Please let me know as I'm having the same issue and my dealer found this bulletin also which means reflashing/updating the TIPM computer...God Bless and thank you! Rob Ransom

Hi ImperialCrown. My wife says she wasn't told of any other fault codes from any other modules. ( The receipt reads: Cust states C ABS,ESP and BAS lights are on. Advise- Diagnosed and needs Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor- will reschedule.) My wife brought the car to the dealer after the no start episode. The receipt reads: Customer states yesterday Vehicle would not start, just made one single click after sitting for an hour- Waited 20 min and then started- Inspected Vehicle and could not reproduce customers at this time. Found TSB 08-009-12 that will correct this concern. Performed software update as needed.

 

[OfficialMopar]

e_bodydude...did the TSB 08-009-12 update on your wife's Journey fix the no start, no crank issue? Please let me know as I'm having the same issue and my dealer found this bulletin also which means reflashing/updating the TIPM computer...God Bless and thank you! Rob Ransom

Hey, Twangmaster. Will you be moving forward with the dealerships recommendation for repair? Please keep us updated on how things go.

Kate
MoparCares

 

[ImperialCrown]

Is you vehicle theft alarm activating? TSB 08-009-12 is a TIPM software update. I would still get it done if it applies to your vehicle:

 

[Doug D]

Regarding the no start, no crank issue, I had this issue with our '10 Journey SXT 3.5L. It was intermittent. What I finally deduced was the TRS (Transmission Range Sensor) would periodically not recognize the vehicle was in Park. What I found was if the no start/no crank issue occurred, I would place the gear shift in neutral and wa la, it would start. Every. Time. Unfortunately, the TRS is deep in the transmission and replacement would require dropping the pan, and then the valve body. The part itself is not too expensive. It's the labor to do it that gets you (unless you can tackle it yourself).

I should add that after starting it in neutral, I could then start it in Park for several months before it would occur again.

 

[e_bodydude]

Twangmaster, hello. The no start no crank issue has happened a couple of times since. As Doug D has stated, shifting to neutral seems to do the trick. Sometimes it has been necessary to run the shifter through the gears and back to park. If it is the TRS causing the problem, I probably won't have it replaced unless it gets to the point of stranding the car. Digging deep into the transmission will have to be done by a professional (I put a shift kit in a 727 trans years ago and it didn't go right)