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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Back to this.
Saturday Jeep no start. Winds over well, hear pump, smell fuel. Tried a plug, no spark. Great, I know where the relays are now. Nope, doesn't seem to be the problem. In fact I did a little switchaoroo with the relays and it started and shut off. Nothing since. I've had the covers off the distribution block and the wires and connectors look fine. Nice and greasy with no green.
Question. If I jumper the 2 large terminals (by pass the relay), would that be nuts?
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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I would double-check the dealer wiring repair. This is what seemed to have fixed it the first time?
It might be helpful to see if the cam/crank signals were present while cranking. These may not set a fault code.
Smelling gas might be another problem. You shouldn't smell gas under the hood or around the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I expect the smell of fuel was from the repeated key on off starting attempts. On the end of it I cranked it with WOT to see if it was flooded.
The look of the wiring repair gave me no reason to suspect trouble. It's a neat job with shrink wrap. I'll have to check for continuity. I thought about a jumper wire to try and determine if it was the signal wire, which is the one repaired. A red one with a dark stripe, could be blue but I took it for black.
Interestingly enough my FIL suggested cam sensor as well. My only thought is that they don't usually fail completely without displaying symptoms other than hard starting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
And now for my report of today's session.
I pulled and checked every fuse and relay that I thought could influence the ignition or has wording related to auto shut down. Everything checked out as good and all the terminals and blades in the power center looked fine.
The next step was to pull the wheel and go back to the relay bank to look at the previous repair.I had good continuity for the repaired wire but it seems the terminal was stretched abroad some. On the top of the relay block there's a kind of white guide plate that seems intended to keep the relays in place and guide them correctly in upon install. It almost looks removable. Point being the the tech appears to have trimmed it to get the old terminal out. Not sure if that may be the issue but I put a precision screwdriver in and closed up the terminal. It's now running but I told my DW not to go out of town.
Finally the new issue is a miss. I'm hoping it's just a drop of water in an injector and the alcohol I added will take care of it. After a test drive about 10 or 12 kliks it didn't clear up. I put my reader on and it gives a P2097.
So now to devise a permanent repair for the relay terminal and deal with this new issue if it doesn't clear up in a couple days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
One final update ( for now );
Wed evening I cleared the code P2097. My DW used the car to go to work Thursday. When she came home I was informed that the CEL was flashing. I told her not to drive it anymore. Friday I worked late and didn't have any stomach to tackle it at 10PM when I arrived home. I did take the time to check codes and the P2097 is now replaced by P0304. Yesterday I went to Canadian Tire and picked up 2 pk of Champion copper plug (#318) and installed. At 112,000 km I estimated that the plugs were still the factory originals. They looked quite good although worn but no cracks or reason to think it was a plug issue. Anybody familiar with these engines knows that the #4 coil needs to be unplugged from the harness to get at the plug, so I took a good look at this one. The connector was fine but the plug end had an issue. The coil spring looked out of place. I removed the boot and the upper end of the spring was pulled off to the side away from the contact. I know I caused this the other evening when trying to ground the plug to check for spark.
So all in all it runs fine now. I left the CEL on just to see if it clears itself. This repair only cost $18.00 CDN plug a bit of aggravation.
 
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