[slosland]

Does anyone know of a repair facility for the RES series radio?

CD doesn't work, radio stations reception fades to static after a few seconds even for stations within a few miles of my location.

The point where the antenna plugs into the back of the unit on the radio itself seems to have a problem, I can wiggle, push and bend the antenna lead until stations play ago but as soon as I remount the unit it starts all over again.

Anyone had any luck with an aftermarket unit?

Info on radio:
On the back: part # P05091222AD 14:14 L06/26/10 CBA PL1SGT
On the top: P05091222AD RES ESN
Date code 3300 1528 Supplier 64469S
S/N T 22 QN 330 0 10414

I just purchased the vehicle for my wife and it worked for 2 days...now nothing.

Thoughts, suggestions, experience with the same?
Thanks.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Is there a CD in it now or it won't load a CD? Make sure that the antenna issue is on the radio side and not with the antenna plug/cable itself.
I have used United Radio in Syracuse, NY. There may be an Authorized FCA repair facility depot closer to you?
Contact them for their current service policies. An exchange unit may be more convenient than waiting to fix yours?
Automotive Electronics | United Radio (at http://www.unitedradio.com/automotive-electronics/ )
The 'ship-in' form for a free estimate is here:
http://www.unitedradio.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/AF72-01.pdf

 

[slosland]

II put the CD in, it wouldn't play, display says NO CD. Go to eject and it displays but does nothing.

I've seen that if I replace with OEM unit I have to reprogram and need codes for that. I can't find part # for antenna cable.

That's why I queried about aftermarket also.

 

[ImperialCrown]

I have found coins, safety pins and paper labels (etc) inside CD players that wouldn't allow the disc to seat and jammed the mechanism. Can you pull the faceplate, cover and player to take a look? Kids love to put pennies in slots.
There may be a belt-driven gear that loads the carriage and lowers the disc onto the spindle. I have manually turned this gear and watched the mechanism (in slow motion) for issues.
My sisters player had a CD inside it when the battery was disconnected. When the battery was reconnected, the player 'forgot' that a CD was loaded. The display didn't show the CD icon.
If you cycle power to the radio, does the player go through a disc 'unloading' motion?
I see a roof mounted or fender mounted antenna available. Which does your have?

 

[slosland]

I've completely removed the radio, shook it, looked with a flashlight and see nothing inside. I've worked on a few Chrysler CD players and got them to work but this one doesn't have real good access. When cycling it does not go thru the motion of playing or ejecting.
I have a fender mounted antenna. it's not loose, one of the things I checked. I even tried making extra grounds to see if that was the reception problem. Nope.

 

[ImperialCrown]

The reason I was asking about antenna location was because the antenna cable to the radio is different between the roof and fender mount antennas. If it is the cable end and not the radio-side connector itself causing the intermittent connection is important to find out. Look for a spread or otherwise damaged connector plug pin. If it is bent or needs soldering, it may be repairable. If it is broken, it will likely need replacement.
If you do replace the unit with a used one from another vehicle, you would need the 4-digit pin from the donor vehicle. This can be found out with the last 8 characters of the VIN of the donor vehicle at your friendly, local FCA parts department counter.
You would likely have to show a document like a bill of sale with the sellers name, donor VIN and your 'sold to' name as well as proof of your identity at the counter.
Might as well get the PIN for your old RES while you are at the counter also.
You can manually enter the PIN at home. I will send you the initialization procedure if you want.
There are reasonably priced used RES units out there.

 

[slosland]

I'm going to look at it again this weekend. I gently adjusted the prongs on the antenna where it plugs into the radio for a tighter fit/greater contact the other day. I have since been able to receive 1 AM radio station 60 miles away but nothing local. I'm also going to try a unit from my 2006 GC that I upgraded years ago, if it has the same DIN plug, It worked fine when it was removed. I will also be checking for loose solder connections on the circuit board which I understand is a common fault.

I've got nothing to lose at this point on the current one. I'll post again in a couple days with the results. After all this is done I'll need to get a 2nd key, they only had 1 when we bought it. I understand this can be a little pricey - $300?

 

[slosland]

Din is different on 2006 GC. Took RES apart, got the CD out. the antenna connection on the circuit board was bad, re-soldered and nothing, something else is bad. Aftermarket here we come.

 

[slosland]

Update: Lat weekend I installed a Kenwood KDC-168U unit with install kit from Crutchfield. Easy install and it sounds great. I have a concern in that yesterday afternoon the vehicle battery was dead and it's only 3 weeks old (manuf date June 2017). The Jeep was only driven three times last week, 55-60 miles each time. Could there be a correlation, excessive amp draw, and how would I remedy?

 

[ImperialCrown]

Does the radio or clock display stay on after leaving the vehicle? Does your vehicle have an amplifier that may be staying on?
I believe that there are 2 battery power connections to the radio and the CAN communications bus turns the radio on and off. Is bus connected to the new radio? Does the faceplate illumination work and how is it wired?
Check for ignition-off current draw (IOD) to confirm that the problem is the radio, then contact Crutchfield. A good battery may be able to power a radio for a day or two as it is a low current device. It may need a CAN bus interface? Described here:
Ignition wiring for the stereo - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums (at http://www.300cforums.com/forums/car-audio-alarms-uconnect-navigation/103678-ignition-wiring-stereo.html )

 

[slosland]

Follow-up. I have contacted Crutchfield, waiting for response. I had a draw test done last weekend over 2-1/2 days, nothing unusual according to shop. Drove last Wednesday and battery was dead Saturday morning. I charged the battery Saturday and it was dead again today, Wednesday. The battery was manufactured 6/23/2017 and installed 8/17/17. Multi-meter confirms full charge when re-charged. How do I check for IOD draw? My wife is getting pissed , having to learn how to charge battery before she runs her errands.

PS it has a can bus interface module installed.
Axxess XSVI-6522-NAV Wiring Interface

 

[ImperialCrown]

IOD can be measured with a current indicator in series with a battery post to the electrical system. I generally use a peanut bulb (like for a side marker lamp). An Ammeter can also be used if the current is within safe limits. An unintentional short will just light a light bulb.
The modules will be awake for a moment after shutoff with fairly high current (1-2 amps?), then after they time-out the current draw should drop to around 100-200 mA.
The bulb will go from a yellow-orange to a dull orange that might be too dim to be visible in sunlight.
If you pull the IOD fuse (there may be 2) and nothing else is on, the current should drop to 0.

How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain (at http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain )

 

[slosland]

I got a new multi-meter today. The battery is reading 12.69 volts after be recharged over night and sitting all day. I disconnected the battery for 20 minutes, set up my meter and checked amp draw and it was .58. I used a 20 ma scale.

After pulling all the fuses one by one I found that pulling the instrument cluster fuse dropped it down to .24. Is there more than one fuse panel? The owners manual doesn't mention anything other than the one under the hood. Am I within range at .24? What should I look for to correct? I have not done a alternator test yet but I don't see how letting the vehicle sit is affected by the alternator.

 

[ImperialCrown]

.58 mA on a 20 milliamp scale would be 580 micro amps. That seems way too small a draw. Am I reading this wrong?
However .58 amps would be just over a 1/2 amp that drops to about a 1/4 amp (.24A), which I would consider too large and could discharge a battery in the course of 2 or 3 days.
The underhood TIPM should be the only fuse box. The instrument cluster is the CCN (cabin compartment node) module and will draw memory current. I would be interested in what the radio itself is drawing.
Disconnecting the main wire to the alternator would eliminate the possibility of leaky diodes from the circuit, but I doubt that is what is happening here.
See if Crutchfield has any suggestions. This is a reason why I tend to avoid dealing with aftermarket radios in newer vehicles. I've seen IOD issues happen too many times with aftermarket electronics. However, if the interface is wired correctly, I would think that it wouldn't do this.

 

[slosland]

Tomorrow I will be doing some testing. Crutchfield gave me a couple of suggestions to check. How do I check the radio draw other than pulling the fuses like I've already done? Is there a way to test the CCN (cabin compartment node) module?

 

[ImperialCrown]

Radio draw would best be checked by unplugging the radio/interface itself. The fuses may run other circuits as well.
The CCN can be addressed with a more advanced scan tool than, say an engine code reader. It can store possible body fault codes.
Since your radio has been changed, this battery draw TSB would not apply. But I thought that I would include it for general interest:
http://www.wk2jeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk2_0802512.pdf
It is for an RB2 radio condition that can wake it up on the bus and have it draw about 2 amps after the vehicle is shut down.

 

[slosland]

I took my multi-meter and the reading on the DCA setting of 20m with battery at full charge 13.10V was .58. I disconnected the plug from the back of the radio, waited...no change so I plugged it back in.

I then unplugged the Axxess XSVI-6522-NAV Wiring Interface, waited and the reading dropped down to .03, plugged it back in and again it went to .58. I did this three more times and on the last try it stayed at .03 when plugged in.

I reassembled the dash and I guess I'm going to have to wait another 2 or 3 days to see if I wake up to a dead battery.

 

[nastijeep]

I've got nothing to lose at this point on the current one. I'll post again in a couple days with the results. After all this is done I'll need to get a 2nd key, they only had 1 when we bought it. I understand this can be a little pricey - $300?[/QUOTE]

I believe a procedure exists to program a "blank" key using a good key. look around for "blanks" for your vehicle. as I recall, didn't seem to be too big a hassle.

 

[slosland]

Well, I've followed all the instructions and still nothing has resolved the problem...dead battery now every 32-36 hours. Can I completely remove interface and continue to drive? I no longer care about a radio.

 

[ImperialCrown]

I would at least unplug the interface and leave the radio unplugged to see if the draw goes away for diagnostic purposes. You should still be able to drive the vehicle OK.
Sorry that this is giving you such a hard time.
I noticed this thread here:
Replacing RES radio (at https://www.allpar.com/forums/threads/replacing-res-radio.169124/#post-1084891780 )