[ImperialCrown]

Is it coming from behind you from the rear door area? Locating it is the first step. Have a helper drive while you sit in the back listening. If it is coming from the rear door fixed glass, have the dealer try STAR case # S1223000024.
Does it vary with side wind gusts? It would be important to rule out road noise (tire roar) as the sound that you are hearing. Were you able to demonstrate the noise for the technician or service advisor so you could point out the noise you were hearing?

 

[ImperialCrown]

If you hear it at the drivers door, can you point to the area that appears to be the noise source? A larger leak may cause a draft that you can feel.
An air leak along the side of a vehicle (door or side window, etc) is usually air leaving and not air entering a vehicle. Moving air across the side of the vehicle will tend to pull air out of the vehicle, like a venturi vacuum effect.
Ck your drivers door and weatherstripping for proper alignment to the body. Everything has to sit flush and even.
All door sealing plugs and grommets must be in place. Any holes are an opportunity for wind noise. The outside mirror mounting is an opportunity as well. Compare left to right side if necessary.
With painters masking tape, try to tape the w/shield mldg to the w/shield glass and road test for a change or elimination of the wind noise.
Then try to tape the drivers door glass to the door frame and re-road test.
Tape the door-to-body gap where the noise seems to be coming from. You may then have to enter and exit the vehicle from the passenger side temporarily to determine if that made a difference or not.
The noise can be aggravated by a pressure difference between the interior and outside of the vehicle as it moves through the air. Selecting fresh air from the HVAC controls or cracking a window open may disturb the pressure difference that exists and change or stop the noise.
The service manual offers many good diagnostic tips and methods for finding and fixing air/water leaks. You can't always move around in the seat and take your eyes off the road while you are trying to locate a leak. Locating the leak is usually 95% of the work and resealing or reseated something causing it is usually simple and sometimes was obviously the problem all along (a good feeling).
You can mimic the leak by pressurizing the interior with the HVAC control set to fresh air and the fan on high with the windows and doors closed. With an air hose used like a stethoscope, move it around the door and window seams and gaps to listen for the roar or hiss in the hose ear. Then look closely at the area that the produced noise. It may be necessary to leave the engine off and attach a battery charger to keep things quiet for the test.
I agree that the dealer should probably be doing this if they haven't done so already, but at least diagnosing this on your own will help you understand the problem better and help you explain in greater detail to the dealer what you have found.
If the other test vehicle was noisy on the other side, then I can't say that this is normal. Give the dealer another attempt. If still unresolved speak with the service manger and possibly open a STAR case on the issue. The service manager will then follow through and monitor the repair process and verify the end result of the repair, hopefully to everyone's satisfaction.