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So I have a 2013 dodge dart 1.4 turbo Rallye. This all started coming home from a trip. All of the sudden the car lost power. Got it to a safe place and checked codes. I had a cam sensor code. So I replaced the cam sensor. Twice. Did nothing. Code was still there. Took it to a dealer thought maybe it had to be programmed. But after 400 dollars they said that it don't need to be programmed. As I was trying to drive it on a dolly it wouldn't go on because of lack of power. At idle it stalled. When tried to start it there was no compression. So as I know about cars. My first thought was timing belt. Got it back to the shop. Bought timing belt and timing belt tools. But the timing belt was fine. I changed it anyways. Since I had the battery unhooked all codes reset. But now I have code p1523-00. And when I do a cylinder leak test every cylinder leaks in the intake. Also have code for transmission shift needs learned. Dealer couldn't do that either. States car wouldn't let them.
 

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Welcome to Allpar. Do you know which cam sensor code? A P0010 or P0013 can be from a poor body ground below the alternator.
If it is leaking compression into the intake, it sounds as iff the intake valves are hanging open (hydraulic adjusters pumped up) or the intakes are bent? Was the fault code for the intake cam?

I found TSB # 18-020-15B that states on p.2:
  • Engine cranks as if it has no compression.
Has this bulletin been done?
SB-10074730-7690.pdf

P1523-00 is low oil pressure at the VVT. See attached. Always diagnose first.

Has the car been checked for recall R42. This is a software update tor the DDCT TCM. See attached.
What is the TCM fault code?
 

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The MultiAir and VVT (variable valve timing) rely on oil pressure for hydraulic valvetrain actuator and phaser operation. This may be the whole problem.
I hope that it is not an engine mechanical issue. Have you checked oil pressure with a gauge? I would avoid running it until you can confirm oil pressure.
 

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How about oil level? You can have pressure, but low level, until it gets near empty. Low level might affect the VVT. These engines have an issue with high oil consumption.
 

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Oil was 1 quart low when all this started. I put oil in it. And I have recently changed the oil and filter to rule that out.
 

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So I have a 2013 dodge dart 1.4 turbo Rallye. This all started coming home from a trip. All of the sudden the car lost power. Got it to a safe place and checked codes. I had a cam sensor code. So I replaced the cam sensor. Twice. Did nothing. Code was still there. Took it to a dealer thought maybe it had to be programmed. But after 400 dollars they said that it don't need to be programmed. As I was trying to drive it on a dolly it wouldn't go on because of lack of power. At idle it stalled. When tried to start it there was no compression. So as I know about cars. My first thought was timing belt. Got it back to the shop. Bought timing belt and timing belt tools. But the timing belt was fine. I changed it anyways. Since I had the battery unhooked all codes reset. But now I have code p1523-00. And when I do a cylinder leak test every cylinder leaks in the intake. Also have code for transmission shift needs learned. Dealer couldn't do that either. States car wouldn't let them.
If all intakes valves are leaking into the manifold without turning the engine the only things possible are bent valves or pumped up lifters. Is it possible that the old belt had slipped cogs?
 

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A way to tell if valves are bent or not seating would be to remove all the valve followers in the MultiAir linkage. Then pressurize (regulated air pressure-you don't want to force a piston down and rotate the engine) the cylinders and listen for a hiss at the throttle body. The valves should be completely closed,
P0340 is a cam/crank relationship issue. If your scan tool is indicating no oil pressure (at the o/p sensor), but you have good oil pressure on a gauge then start there. If you have spark, then I believe your crank sensor is OK.
There are discussions on the internet about no compression with MultiAir engines. This may involve 'priming' the valvetrain as shown here:
 

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How many miles are on it? MAYBE you have a clogged catalytic converter?
 
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Did you check the exhaust for a blockage like I suggested? All you have to do is disconnect the exhaust pipe from the flange and see if it'll start. That's much easier than a rebuild that may not be needed? It COULD be that simple. Now, I'm not an ASE Certified Master Mechanic, just an old shade tree, but I've seen a LOT of vehicles with the issue of losing power and shutting down from a clogged cat con or muffler. Take 20 minutes and check that out, why don't you?
 

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I would do a little more diagnosis before pulling it apart. Are the intake valves actually bent from hitting a piston top? Or are the MultiAir valvetrain actuators pumped up and keeping them open?
The head may not have to come off.
 
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