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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I recently had my transmission replaced. We got a 80k mile 62TE trans from a 2014 Town & Country to put in my avenger from the Ole pik a part. Had a small shop put it in and it drives great! But we are running into some issues like:

All gears out outlined with boxes including an 8 at the end (PRND8) is what it looks like. This only happens when its in Park Or neutral. This didn't happen until I got the car back from the shop.

Reverse lights stay on in park.

Cannot open trunk with button or key. All it does is flash.

Autostick will not engage after awhile of driving in D. It will not show gears that I'm in. Just acts like it's in normal D and still has it selected. Sometimes it works sometimes its like it never existed.

Sometimes in the morning when I start the car those outlines aren't there and can access the trunk. But the second I shift it out of park those boxes come back and I lose access to the trunk.

I tried speaking to the shop but they're not standing behind it. They don't see an issue as long as it drives fine when it didn't even drive before with the old trans. I've thought maybe it's a programming issue and thought about investing in that WITECH software and data cable to maybe see if that's the root of this. I'm not sure what else to do. I've checked all connections, Grounds, readjusted the shifter cable and still nothing.
 

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. . . So I recently had my transmission replaced. We got a 80k mile 62TE trans from a 2014 Town & Country to put in my avenger from the Ole pik a part. Had a small shop put it in and it drives great! But we are running into some issues like:

All gears out outlined with boxes including an 8 at the end (PRND8) is what it looks like. This only happens when its in Park Or neutral. This didn't happen until I got the car back from the shop.
Reverse lights stay on in park. Cannot open trunk with button or key. All it does is flash.. . . . .
All these abnormal issues point to incorrect signals being sent from the TRS / transmission range sensor to the PCM. There are 4 sense switches in the transmission solenoid assembly. The switches assume various states, either OPEN or CLOSED, depending upon shift lever position and this information is sent to the PCM. The PCM decodes this and then sends the switch state to the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster interprets and then determines which box to illuminate around the appropriate letter in the PRNDL display. If an invalid switch state signal is sent the instrument cluster cannot interpret it correctly and weird lighitng in the PRNDL display results. An invalid switch state is probably inhibiting and preventing the autostick transmission feature from engaging within the PCM.

Check the wiring between the PCM and the transmission solenoid assembly. Look for damaged, pinched or shorted wires. Check the pins and receptacles in the wiring at the transmission. Look for bent pins, mangled receptacles.

The attached image shows the wiring pinouts for the transmission solenoid connector. This daigram is a composite created from a 2009 minivan with 62TE transaxle and other sources. Wiring colors may be different but pin positions are correct for your later model year.

Rectangle Font Parallel Diagram Slope


If the wiring checks out and is not damaged, remove the connector and use a multimeter or test lamp to check for continuity / no continuity on the 4 sense switch pins at the solenoid assembly on the transmission as identified.

. . . .I tried speaking to the shop but they're not standing behind it. They don't see an issue as long as it drives fine when it didn't even drive before with the old trans. . . . .
This repair facility can handle "wrenching" and replacing a transmission. The shop is probably not so good in tracing electrical wiring issues. You can give the diagram to the shop and outline the process. You might need lots of persuasion on checking wiring and sense switches.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Welcome to Allpar. I agree. If the TCM can't tell what gear it is in, it will 'box' the PRND6 display.
It may have a P0705/P0706 fault code?

If the shop wants to wash their hands of this job, it gives me a bad feeling that they might know something that we don't. Or they are just incompetent.
If the shift cable is adjusted correctly and there is no wiring damage, the transaxle may not be compatible.
Was part compatibility verified between the vehicles? It needs to be a 68090720AD.
Font Rectangle Terrestrial plant Screenshot Number

Organism Rectangle Font Screenshot Terrestrial plant



For some reason a 68090720AC won't work?
Font Plant Terrestrial plant Screenshot Rectangle



If it is compatible, look closely for push-ins, bent or broken terminals at the connectors:
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I went ahead and removed the airbox. Disconnected the battery and unplugged the 23 pin harness that's on the side. Checking switch states in "Park" checks out and is correct. But when I tested reverse next it has no continuity across all 4 switches I tested. T42 is the one that should've showed as closed but all 4 are open. Could this be why when I shift from park it freaks out? I've only managed to get it to show the gears properly a couple times from disconnecting the battery but yeah the second I shift from park it goes back to the same issue. But when shifted to any gear except neutral or park it doesnt show those boxes on the gears. They only appear when in "Park" and "Neutral" Should I further test "Neutral" and "Drive" switch states or is this already pointing to a bad solenoid pack?

@ImperialCrown I'm not sure the part number. I have the receipt for it from the raceway pik a part we got it from. All I know is the shop said they found one for 2k with 80k miles on it from a Town & Country so I drove my [I should have my mouth washed out with soap for using such terms] an hour to get it LOL. On their website it said it was "Compatible" with my car.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Did they take the old 62TE back?
It sounds like this one has a bad TRS or a broken plastic switch actuator?
It may need the valve body removed for inspection.
I wouldn't jump at a sol pack yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Did they take the old 62TE back?
It sounds like this one has a bad TRS or a broken plastic switch actuator?
It may need the valve body removed for inspection.
I wouldn't jump at a sol pack yet.
Well I just called them and they still have it lol. So I'm about to get on the road and at least go get it in case I do have to swap parts off it. I still can take it back for my core charge but I'll probably hang onto it just incase for now
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Font Rectangle Art Pattern Paper product



Transaxle shift quality/software improvements if they haven't been done yet:

Font Material property Number Document Screenshot


Font Number Screenshot Document
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
View attachment 89582


Transaxle shift quality/software improvements if they haven't been done yet:

View attachment 89583

View attachment 89584
I can get the barcode of the trans we put in here in a bit. But I'll still have to get the one from the old one. Possibly still a software/programming issue? That's why I thought about dropping almost 500 on a laptop and data cable to use WITECH. Dealership wants $199 just to diagnose the trans and then I'm out on a car for over a week. That's not including the labor or whatever to correct the issue. I'm already out 3600 for a trans and the labor to put it in.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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The software/programming update is only to improve shift behavior. The PRND6 issue is most likely a TRS (hard part) problem.
 

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. . . I went ahead and removed the airbox. Disconnected the battery and unplugged the 23 pin harness that's on the side. Checking switch states in "Park" checks out and is correct. But when I tested reverse next it has no continuity across all 4 switches I tested. T42 is the one that should've showed as closed but all 4 are open. Could this be why when I shift from park it freaks out? . . . .. But when shifted to any gear except neutral or park it doesnt show those boxes on the gears. They only appear when in "Park" and "Neutral" Should I further test "Neutral" and "Drive" switch states or is this already pointing to a bad solenoid pack? . . . .
As suspected the box around the P and N is correctly illuminated when the selector lever is in PARK or NEUTRAL. The logic from the 4 sense switches only needs the T41 switch to be closed for correct PRNDL display. This allows the PCM to ground the starter relay so that you can get the starter to engage and spin the crankshaft.

. . .It sounds like this one has a bad TRS or a broken plastic switch actuator? It may need the valve body removed for inspection. I wouldn't jump at a sol pack yet. . . .
I would agree with ImperialCrown assessment. The pan needs to be dropped and the valve body and TRS inspected. Who knows? Maybe this salvage transmission was incorrectly diagnosed and discarded because of a relatively simple, mechanical issue. Otherwise this transmission may be a very good replacement. I do not think you need to do further testing with the 4 sense siwtch circuits for OPEN or CLOSED state.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
As suspected the box around the P and N is correctly illuminated when the selector lever is in PARK or NEUTRAL. The logic from the 4 sense switches only needs the T41 switch to be closed for correct PRNDL display. This allows the PCM to ground the starter relay so that you can get the starter to engage and spin the crankshaft.



I would agree with ImperialCrown assessment. The pan needs to be dropped and the valve body and TRS inspected. Who knows? Maybe this salvage transmission was incorrectly diagnosed and discarded because of a relatively simple, mechanical issue. Otherwise this transmission may be a very good replacement. I do not think you need to do further testing with the 4 sense siwtch circuits for OPEN or CLOSED state.
Well the T&C it came out of only had 80k miles. But the rear end got smashed in by a truck judging by the pictures. Now conditions of that van outside of that who knows. Pulling the TRS is gonna be fun with the trans inside the car still and fresh fluid in it. I'm known to make messes with this stuff lol. How does that part fail? It looks so simple. Just prongs dragging across a plate.
 

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. . . .. Pulling the TRS is gonna be fun with the trans inside the car still and fresh fluid in it. I'm known to make messes with this stuff lol. How does that part fail? It looks so simple. . . . .
I found this 3 part video series presented by a Mopar mechanic. You do NOT have to remove the valve body to gain access to the TRS. In fact if you park the vehicle on an incline and then raise the front end you probably can remove the side cover of the transmission over the valve body and TRS without loosing any fluid. The bottom pan covers the fluid filter so you do not need to remove it. Three part series listed below.

Part 1/3: Chrysler/Volkswagen 62TE trans range sensor removal

Part 2/3: Chrysler/Volkswagen 62TE trans range sensor removal


Part 3/3: Chrysler/Volkswagen 62TE trans range sensor removal


Once the side cover with mini-dipstick tube is removed, check the 4 wire harness from the multipin solenoid connector to the TRS connector. Check for unseated or broken wire or broken pin at the TRS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Well I'll be darned. I go through the whole process of changing out the TRS. Shift it from park and all the gears a few times and still looking good. Drive it down the road and back to the house. The second I throw it in park thinking all is good those boxes come back!!!!


Edit: So I drove about 20 miles today and it hasn't come back yet. I guess it's one of those you gotta drive it until it recognizes the fix. I've shut it off multiple times and it has yet to come back. So I think so far it might've fixed it. The codes I'm getting now are:

U0100 (Engine CAN Timeout)
U140E (Implausible Vehicle Configuration Data Received)
C2202 (Original VIN Mismatch/Missing)

So I'm guessing now all it needs is a flash on the PCM since it came from a van? Everything is working properly now. Autostick and my trunk is accessible. Those boxes around the gear selectors are gone.
 
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