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2013 dodge dart no compression cylinder 3

521 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  ImperialCrown
Just picked up a 2013 1.4l dart limited. It has a p0303 misfire code. Long story short, did a compression check and nothing on 3. The other cylinders are 120lbs. Is there anything stupid or easy to check before I tear the motor apart?
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If you have access to a boroscope, you could remove the #3 spark plug and look inside the cylinder at TDC position to see if you can see any damage to valves, or if one is open, or if there is a hole in a piston. You could also remove the valve cover and look for anything unusual with the valvetrain at cyl 3.
I actually ordered a borescope yesterday.
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How many miles? The 1.4L has a timing belt. Some have let loose early. It will crash the valves.
Spark plugs are due at every 30K miles.
Do you know any maintenance history?
The 1.4L is one little hot engine, but does need more maintenance attention than the 2.0L & 2.4L.
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I was told 90k on the engine and car has 185k on the odometer. I would think if the belt let loose, all the valves would crash, not just cylinder 3. Car runs, just number 3 is dead. Plugs look to have been changed and some coils too. I don’t know anything about the multi air brick valve setup, but I read each valve is controlled separately.
If you apply air pressure to the #3 spark plug hole at #3 TDC, where does the air escape from? Throttle body? Tailpipe? Oil filler cap hole?

Any valvetrain fault codes or just P0303?

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My timing belt went at 67k
If you apply air pressure to the #3 spark plug hole at #3 TDC, where does the air escape from? Throttle body? Tailpipe? Oil filler cap hole?

Any valvetrain fault codes or just P0303?
I haven’t tried a leak down test yet, just compression. No other pcm codes, just the P0303. I had a bcm code, B2204-55 ecu mismatch not configured and a hvac U0422-00.
The BCM & HVAC fault codes may be related if the modules lost communication with each-other?
There was a software flash for early production PF:
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Well piston looks fine via borescope. I can’t see the valves, can’t maneuver the camera enough. I’m going to pull the valve cover when I have a free spot in my garage next week.
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Pulled valve cover, everything looks ok. Timing belt looks good. Leak down test has air going in the exhaust on cylinder 3. Is there anything else stupid to check before I pull the head?
Since you don't see any chips or cracks in the piston, I'd pretty much guess that you have a stuck or burnt valve. Time to pull the head and check it out.
The head will probably still have to come off, but is there any difference in valve stem height?
Valve springs & rockers OK?
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