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Alcus and I managed to get the dwell set on his '67 Dart and have it running at a reading of 40. Actually had to take the new points out and reuse the old set because the engine wouldn't run with the new ones. He got a rebuild kit for the carb and got that taken care of so now we need to set the timing. The engine is a little hard to start but runs fine when cold but as soon as it reaches operating temp it starts running pretty rough so we figured it may be the timing is off. In his owner's manual it states that the timing should be 5 degrees BTC or TDC with Clean Air Package. What is the Clean Air Package referring to? Also, would 5 degrees BTC be the mark on the indicator that is to the left of the little hole (when looking at it from the front of the engine)? The indicator looks like it is stamped with 'BEFORE' on that side but kind of hard to tell with these old eyes. One more question, when checking the timing, aren't we supposed to disconnect the vacuum advance hose? If we are doing this right the timing right now is reading about 5 degrees after TDC and we would have to remove the dizzy and move the adjustment plate to be able to get the timing where it should be. Our problem with this is that the engine has always ran fine until recently when Alcus started having the stalling issue when at idle so it doesn't seem like the timing would have been off that much and it running as good as it was before.
 

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Check to make sure the choke is coming off all the way, which can cause starting problems when warm and idle fine, then not allow normal driving type problems. You are right about the timing marks and the vacuum hose disconnect (plug it when setting timing), and if you loosen the bolt/adjustment nut enough to move with a little force, it won't shift around to set the timing and then shut her off and tighten. Check the play of the shaft on the distributor, by rotating the engine to the point where you are setting the points, grab ahold of the rotor and move it around to see if you can alter the points gap. Too much movement of opening or closing at this point is a bushing wear problem that needs addressed.
 

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It is quite possible that the new points had something on the contact surface creating a less than perfect contact. I have found that on the last two contacts I purchased. Sometimes just passing a clean white (non-treated) paper across the closed points will clean them. An ohmmeter will tell the story. There must be "0" resistance across the points for proper operation.
 

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The Clean Air Package was a system designed to reduce emissions. I believe it was mandatory on California cars from 66 on, and other cars from 68 - but don't quote me on that one.

My 66 Barracuda came with it. It's easy to tell if you have it. Look for a peculiar sideways cylinder shaped object perched on the valve cover about 2/3s to the rear. Vacuum lines will run to it from the carb and distributor.

If it's there but not hooked up (as mine is right now) set your timing as if you don't have the CAP.

I found the 66 service manual to be of very little help with the CAP. Perhaps someone here can point us to a better resource?
 
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