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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gentlemen,

i´m rebuilding my Saratoga´s 3.0V6 this summer. Means complete gaskets getting replaced, new timing belt / wapu, lifters etc.

I always used fully synthetic 10W 40, 5W 50 will be the new oil with the new lifters.

Are those Mitsu engines designed for high mileage?
Or should i also replace the main bearings?

I found some 300 000 mile 3.0 V6 vehicles, but i don´t know what already has benn done or overhauled.


Would be interesting to know...


Greetings
Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well that´s nice to hear!

The engine would stay in the car, trans is still working, TCC is done, bump upshifts til 3rd (bearings gone), but it will stay in the car.


@B10alia: Well, i´m kind of a "forced fan" of the 6G72 in Chrysler vehicles. because i got them in both of my vehicles. My personal favorite engine ever used by Chrysler is the LA 318, especially found in AHB M Bodies. I´d also love to have a 3.3 / 3.8 in my garage,

But i prefer a classic and tougher trans. OK, i take extremly good care on engine and trans, maybe a bit "too much",....so a 3.0 bolted on a A 670 would be my perfect daily, but not much vehicles featuring this option were sold here in Austria. So i´m pretty much forced to drive an oil burning, worn out A604 having vehicle.....but before i see my first car on a yard, i´ll fix thing that should be fixed....


Thanks !
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
1991spirites said:
A friend of mine had 250k miles on his 3.0 in his 95 Caravan. The motor was original except timing belt, water pump, and other basic maintaince items. I helped him to valve cover gaskets on it because they started leaking and when we pulled them off the gaskets still had a Mopar part number on it and that was at 245k miles!!
That´s a lot!

I only got arround 125k miles on it now....but 20 years are 20 years for any gasket....i replaced the valve cover and oil pan gaskets arround 95k miles (ca. KM ~ Miles).
But it leaks oil arround every cam and crank seal, head gasket (oil and water is clean) and of course the valve stem seals.

So a complete "rebuild", or lets say a complete gasket tune up is necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
neon98rt said:
i changed stuff too due to it being 20 years. I had the transmission gasket, oil gasket and valve cover gasket. The car does not leave an oil puddle but it is still oily on the bottom. I figure every month i dont give the bank 300 or more dollars paying for a new car is money in my pocket. I have 104k miles on my 90 lebaron. I have put a lot of money in the car. name a part and i replaced it. Go ahead name a part. ( part as in maintenance parts) .
I also treat it like a sports car so hopefully i still will get another 100k out of it.
Well, i also spent a lot (maybe too much for a 500 $ car) of money....but i tret it like it supposed to be treated, but the oil consumption and especially the leaking problems are too massive.
Maybe there´s good hardware in the engine, but the gaskets ans seals fail too early.

That´s why i expect arround 300 000 KM (not miles), beacause we got a lot more stuff like city traffic, short distances to drive, much more turns etc. What i mean is that a car from (just one example) Austria does not last as long as a vehicle from the midwest or so.

I´m always wondering how clean and almost mint some cars with almost 200k on the clock are, if i put this mileage on in my home town or country, there´ll be much more wear on the whole vehicle...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I´ve to say on my Voyager, the job was OK, i got more room sideways than on my Saratoga. But the only thing is, that the Minivan´s engine sits a little bit deeper inside, so some bolts are easier to reach through the side / passenger´s side wheel.

And there´s a little pipe extension from the water pipe that runs between the cylinder heads, which you may have to remove or bend a bit so you can get the new water pump in there....pretty tricky, but OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
rj- said:
My '94 Shadow ES is over 196,000 right now.

Water pump was the major issue. That plaus all belts got replaced in 2001. Not long after I got him.

I did have to replace the fuel pump 2 yrs ago. I did the gas tank when I did the pump.

I got a brand new radiator for the car up stairs in my barn. Laziness is why it's still in the box.
Well that´s just fine!

I also had to replace the fuel pump, arround 185k KM (not miles), the radiator is gone too, but doesn´t leak, i also replace it while re - gasketing the Mitsu this summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nicely said!!

I just put 200 000 KM on my Saratoga, almost 125 000 miles.

Already replaced all wheel beerings, front shocks (rear ones are also dead now), drivers side driveshaft, steering gear and a lot of small parts etc.
Massive rust is the only thing, which keeps me away from buying any vehicle....

My Saratoga is almost rust free, Body 100 %, just some small spots on the rear underbody panels. THATS why i´m fixing what should be fixed and put as many miles / KM on it as it could take. Transmission is the first, oil pump´s noisy since 60 000 KM, still running. I´ll overhaul the engine (cause of oil burning) and the trans in the next couple of weeks. Parts are already stored. But i have to say, i´m definatly no fan of ATF+4 at all, may works on a newer or overhauled Ultradrive, but not in an unopended or old one.

I´ve been driven a 1st Gen. Minivan, running on Dexron III since almost 100 000 KM, perfect shift quality, no problems or excessive wear. But that´s another thing...


I just want to read some notes of high mileage 3.0 Mitsu´s, main bearings, cam´s, crankshaft etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, that´s what i was thinking about too. I just will "re - gasket" the engine, no bearings or any hardware. Of course, valve seals, head gasket, cam seals etc....but nothing more.
I run 10W 40 most of the time (Shell or Valvoline MaxLife), i tried a 5W 50 cause of the lifters, no change, so 10W 40 should be fine. AND, a lot of mountain driving here, so you´ll get a much higher oil temperature than in summer city traffic.

Of course, ATF+4 is the only proven choice for the A604, but i guess i just "washed out" the maybe 20 years old dirt of some important areas inside the trans....pressure is OK, TCC works fine, but shift quality isn´t good after 500 KMM of driving. Of course, still learning...but i just say, Dexron III works (or feels....) better to me in the unopened units.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I totally share your opinion!

Of course, if a gunked up old, hydraulic trans gets flushed, there might be some rough shift after that. A friend of mine had a A 413, totally burnt fluid, never serviced. They flushed it, after that, shift quality was gone, before the flush it shifted very slowly, with a lot of slippage. After that, finally cleaned, it smashed in gears cause of proper fluid circulation, but the clutches and bands were already done.

But on the A 604, shift quality shouldn´t change in the whole life of the trans, if every sensor, solenoid etc. is working properly.
If the 2 - 3 bump shifts wouldn´t go away.....i might replace the solenoid unit, because the old fluid was more than dirty.

I´ve got ATF+4 in all of my vehicles (all A604), i was just wondering how fine the Dexron III filled Minivan worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Well that maybe happened to my Saratoga. It has got a red fluid in it when i bought it 4 years ago. But i have no idea which fluid it was. TCC is shot, also a quiet noise from the pump, Code 38 saved, pump is not producing the correct pressure.

But that´s another thing...

I know that ATF+4 is needed for the A604, or lets say it was made for exactly this transmission. I also refilled some A 670´s with Dexron III, works fine, maybe the better choice if it does not have a TCC.
But i have bad luck with all of my A604´s. I hope i get the Minivans trans in a good working condition without an overhaul. All of the vehicles were mostly driven in city traffic, but that is what you get from a Vienna car.

I already rebuit one A604, right now stored in the garage, hope everything works on the first (or 2nd...) try.

I´d curious if a clogged solenoid unit is causing bad shift quality without saving any code....
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I know, this is (definatly) the best site to get help with the A604 trans. I also rebuilt once like i said, but only flushed the solenoid pack cause the fluid was OK and clean, the torque converter broke inside.
I know the pic with the little filter caps inside the pack, but as valiant67 said, no pressure trouble - no codes. I´ll run the new TCM for i while, lets see how it works, if there´s no change, i might pull it apart...

And yes, i heard of the Snap On scanner, would a good thing to have....
 
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