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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen,

Is there any difference (oil pressure etc) between the Mopar 10W 30 or any 10W 40?

I was thinking about the Mopar MS-6395 "rule".

But a 40" oil is only more temperature resistant isn´t it?


...yeah, the big guy from Europe is counting pennys :D


Greetings
 

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I might use 10W-40 in warmer climates or try to quell an oil consumption issue, but 10W-30 is a good general use weight.
5W-30 is today's standard in many engines with its claimed fuel saving and lower viscosity which contributes to less internal drag. That should also be fine to use in your engine.
5W-20 is used in colder climates and by many engines that need a rapid response from oil-controlled variable valve timing (VCT and VVT) and MDS cylinder shut-off actuators.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK thank you!

Well my Saratoga uses oil, classic. I´ll replace th evalve stem seals and almost every other sealing this summer.
Would you say a 10W 30 is better fot the hydraulic lash adjusters than a 10W 40?
 

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I would go with the 10W-40, it remains a little heavier when warm, but not much.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK thanks, yeah i thought so too.
The engine is 21 years old, got 200k KM on the clock...getting rebuilt this year, cause of the all known troubles.

I think the 5W 20 and 10W 30 oils are just for newer engines, an old, bit worn out one runs longer with a bit thicker oil.
Of course, 20 years ago, nobody produced such a modern oil like today, using hundreds of additives, some of them maybe not the best for old, hardened seals......but i guess if i run a 5W 30 or 10W 30 in my old 6G72, it uses it´s own lube like water.....
 

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That is a "newer" engine and would run fine on a 5w30 oil. I ran 5w30 in all the 3.0s I had, even with the smoking they didn't use much oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
valiant67 said:
That is a "newer" engine and would run fine on a 5w30 oil. I ran 5w30 in all the 3.0s I had, even with the smoking they didn't use much oil.
Nice to hear, i know the engine was "modern" when it came out.

My Saratoga used arround one quart every 800 miles. Leaving a nice blue cloud after a minute stop when warm.
I used a 5W 30 last winter, but only put 4000 miles or so on it, it wa susing it like hell...
 

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There is a decent discussion under the EEK-FAQ forum on the EEK page. Lots of opinions, may or not help you. I say go with the originally recommended 5W-30 until it doesn't work for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
MoparJeff said:
There is a decent discussion under the EEK-FAQ forum on the EEK page. Lots of opinions, may or not help you. I say go with the originally recommended 5W-30 until it doesn't work for you.
Oh, just found, thanks!
 

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These 3.0's don't seem to be sensitive to oil viscosity. Obviously the lighter weights flow better in really cold weather but just about every multi-vis oil starts at 10W which should be fine in all but the most extreme cold climates. At the high end range of the multi-vis oils the 20, 30 or 40 weight ratings don't seem to have any real affect on the engine operation other than maybe a small affect on the warm oil pressure at idle. Any decent oil changed regularly should be fine.
The problems these engines all have: smoking ( valve seals ), leaks ( cam end seals, valve cover and rear main seals ) and lifter noise ( clogged/dirty lifters or worn through wear surface ) don't seem to be affected one way or the other by the oil weight. When these problems crop up, changing the oil weight makes little difference.
 

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On the 2.5, it's 5W-30. That might have something to do with the already ridiculously long time it takes to get oil to the head on startup. There was a test run that I've heard of back when the 2.5 was new-ish that said Mobil 1 gave the best flow time to the head, so that's what I use.
 
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