[ImperialCrown]

Haynes may not be the best choice of manuals for this job. I find much of their information inaccurate. A factory manual will pay for itself on a job like this.
I believe that the transaxle/PTU can stay in place, supported by a jack. Remove the hood for easier access. The brackets, exhaust and bellhousing, etc can be separated from the engine and the engne lifted out the top.

 

[chuzz]

If you're going to take it out that way, I'd recommend removing the wiper tub too. At least that's what I call it, I don't know the proper term, but it's where your wiper motor and linkage are. That will give you a little more clearance.

 

[whatsup]

Thanks fellas, engine only, thru the top it is... now if only I can get my K-car running--- another topic that is.

 

[GLHS#0867]

Just my 2 cents, it was made to come out the bottom together, and put back in from the top together. I have done so many and I can tell you this, put the trans on the engine, before you put it in there and save yourself alot of work oh man...alot of work... when you put it back in you need the cherry picker up very high and swing the trans downward so its on the bottom facing the ground engine way up in the air and the whole assembly just swings down and up into place and slide the trans mount bolt in and you ready to finish up the job..

Its almost impossible to get the trans back in with the engine in place..

 

[whatsup]

OK fellas,

Please don't judge me but I am finally getting to perform this motor R&R. Sometimes priorities change, life gets in the way, etc.

So, after taking pictures and taping/IDing wiring connectors, I have started to disconnect the connectors, unhook dohickies and thing-of-a-majigs, removed the AC compressor, etc, I am getting to the point of jerking this motor/trans out of the engine bay. Certainly more involved than R&R an engine in my '70 Dodge truck!

My first post was in regards to pulling just the engine but the engine is locked up (threw a rod), can't turn it over to loosen the torque converter from the flex plate--- I might drop the oil pan and see if I can unstick it, another issue.

The vehicle has AWD and ABS and my copy of the year-specific Haynes manual conveniently omitted most if not all infor on AWDs and only a tensy bit more info on the ABS.

I figured out the ABS stuff, removing the system from its bolted sheet-metal framed home and moving it away from the trans, near the battery tray, without breaking the lines loose. However my dilemma is with the AWD. I can ******* it and pull the trans and let the rear drive shaft drop out on its own but my concern is in putting it back together.

It looks like I can unbolt the drive shaft near the trans and pull the short shaft from the trans but what is the proper procedure in reassembling? Are there alignment issues since there is no universal joints used?

I am unemployed so buying a high dollar service manual is out, however a $10-20 CD is within my finances.

Any help would be appreciated, any documention available as well.

If this warrants its own topic I can create another one if necessary.

 

[98gcawd]

I would reference mark the driveshaft and output shaft so you can reassemble them in the same position. I can't find in the manual any reference to removing the whole shebang in one piece. It just deals with individual components. Removing the power transfer unit requires dropping the crossmember. Is there any way you can drop all the running gear out the bottom, lift the body high enough to clear and then drag the guts out
from underneath? Ain't wrenching on these vehicles fun :frusty:
After thinking about it for a few minutes, I think I would drop the oil pan and free-up the crank - unbolt the broken rod and using a pry bar or pipe and sledge hammer (wear eye protection and maybe even a face shield) break it free. Then unbolt the flex plate and yank the engine out the top. Dropping the whole works is going to take a lot of wrenching. Don't transmission shops just pull the trans leaving the engine in place?

 

[whatsup]

Hey, thanks for the reply and help.

I figured on marking the driveshaft before removing. Hoping there is enough flexibility to move tailshaft out of the way and pull the driveshaft from the PTU.

I know I'll have to pull the axles free from the transaxle. Looks like everything will clear, pulling the engine/trans from the top. I was going for just the motor being pulled but access to top bolts of bellhousing is limited due to the exhaust wrapping around motor there. Other than pulling the axles, not that much more work.

As far as dropping the whole shebang from underneath, I know it's possible but an avenue I never actually tried (old school, out from the top). I am slightly limited in equipment and shop (lack thereof). I have floor jacks, jack stands, ramps, cherry-picker, gantry-type overhead hoist... all on dirt, no cement.

My concern is putting it all back together, not familiar with a AWD set up with a PTU, etc. I searched all over this site and others and there just isn't much there as far as removing/replacing these units as a whole or singlarly. I ordered a CD from eBay that supposedly has info on AWDs, we'll see. I also ordered a newer Haynes manual cheap on eBay that includes 1995s, hopefully that has more info than the 84-93 I have.

 

[98gcawd]

If the CD is a copy of the factory service manual - Van/Wagon, Front Wheel Drive/All Wheel Drive, you should be good. The Haynes manual I have for my '98 has nothing on AWD.

Looks like you will have to pull the PTU output shaft, what about the PTU, will it clear? You are still going to have to deal with the flex plate/torque converter bolts, so the assembly will need to be off the ground to get at them, after freeing the crank. Just trying to picture how to go about it.

 

[whatsup]

Thanks again for the reply 98,

The PTU looks like it'll clear, it's not as big as the transaxle and is tucked in closer to the motor.

Thanks for the heads up on the Haynes manual, I only spent $5, includ. S/H on it. The CD, I'm not exactly sure, it says it has AWD info but???

Yes I know I still need to free the crank. Or take eng/trans out, unbolt trans from engine and hope I can get to all the bolts between the flywheel and engine block with a box end wrench or ???

I can't find torque values for the 6 bolts on the flanged driveshaft either, hopefully the CD or newer Hanyes (unlikely) will have them or I'll try and see what they are torgued to before loosening them. Looks like that short driveshaft has some other machining on the shaft about half way down, don't know yet what that is about. I have searched on the 'net and there is nothing substantual on the AWD! Very little.

If I figure out how to post pictures, I'll post some of the AWD for future reference. It rained here today so I didn't get to play.