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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My newest project is a 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe. I was going to restore it original but my wife wants an automatic with A/C. Soooo plans are changing. I am purchasing a 1975 Cordoba as a donor car. I wonder if I can remove the entire front end; engine, front suspension, brakes, subframe and build mounts under the 47 to accept the whole enchilada?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The rear track appears to be the same 60". I am not sure about the front track on the 47. It measures about* 56" and I think the Cordoba is about 60"? I will check again on this site. * say "about" because the 47 front end is so worn that I can't be sure where to take a measurement. The flat head that came with the 47 has one dead hole and the marking on the block does not relate to the numbers given here on allpar. I am wondering if it may be an industrial flathead that was poked in the car years ago? As for the speed parts for the flat-head, the ones I saw on e-Bay were astronomical $.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Going to p/u the Cordoba tomorrow! Took 1/2 day with three men to get the Plymouth off the trailer. Brakes locked up on 3 wheels... The measured WB on the Plymouth is 117" the Cordoba 115" the Track is a little less obvious with a tape measure. The serial # on the flathead engine is P25*90I504* which I have found no info except that it Might be from a 1954 model something.. I wonder if the "i" in the serial # is indicating industrial?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Picked up the Cordoba Friday. My chinese electric wench pooped out first (Smitty Built XR-8) after only 3 uses! - Don't buy one! Had to use a come-along to pull the 4100 lb beast up on the trailer! Dodgeboy was right about the width, 62" front and back! The rear will not be a problem but the front is going to require a rethink. I still hope to use the torsion bar front suspension. I wish I had taken more measurements on the 47 before I disassembled body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the help. Right now I am removing as much excess as I can from the Cordoba so I can haul it to the Southwest Swap Meet in Decatur, TX next weekend. I have to keep a couple cars in remote storage in order to stay married.. Running back and forth from home to storage eats up a lot of time. I am planning to take the P25 flathead motor along to the sale... I am not sure I want to part with it yet? It was not a "numbers match" motor in the first place and the compression checks ran from zero in number 2 to 60lbs in a couple of cylinders....but it is taking up space here so I think if someone at the meet wants it more than me it will go along with the 3speed manual tranny. I just hope I sell more stuff than I end up buying..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This Cordoba is too darn low! As near as I can tell the Torsion Bars are connected to a crossmember that is part of the unibody (not the front subframe). Oh Joy! The cordoba front subframe width is 31" inside to inside at the front of the engine (under the water pump). The front rail on the 47 is supposed* to be 34" outside to outside of the frame rails at the front... but it is not linear, looks more like a snake. *according to the 47's manual.. in other words, at some point they are both "about the same...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
At the southwest swap meet for next 3 days.. Lots of interest in the the old flathead 6. I dont really know how to price it. the flat head has a rebuild tag; .020 on rods, .010 mains and .040 pistons. I guess 40 over on the old flatheads was no big deal? . No interest in the Cordoba parts as yet. Need to sell something. Wonder what the old engine is worth and should I keep it all together; starter, carb, generator, oil bath air cleaner or just separate? Wife says don't bring back more than you left with! this is going to be hard..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The old flat head was the star of the show! Except, the thing was rotating fine when I pulled it out 2 weeks ago. When I got it to the sale the darn thing had locked up tight! Pulled the head, the pan, the distributor... finally gave up could not see a problem. Sold the darn thing for $50 to get it out of my sight. The nice man who bought it felt sorry for me.. I gave him all the parts; starter, generator, carb, breather, ect... He gave me Another $100! Made my day! Absolutely no market for the Cordoba body parts... everyone wanted the 360 motor, no body wanted the body... Too bad lots of nice straight Texas sheet metal is headed to the scrap yard. Will start work as soon as I get the trailer unloaded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The bellhousing was removed, so the flywheel was free, when the head and pan were removed there was no evidence of anything in the wrong place.. its old history now. Working on the compressor/sandblaster now. It had not been run in several years. It is a Buick V6 powered by 3 cylinders and 3 for air compression. Changed the oil, filter, air filter and getting ready to dump the old gas and get it operational. Lots of parts to sandblast on the 47 body. Ran a compression check on the Cordoba 360 motor. 90-95lbs in 7 cylinders, 70 lbs in #5... Guess I better pop the heads off and see what is going on there? Bought an air chizel... That Cordoba body better loosen up and "drop its drawers" or I will rip it open like a hot knife in butter. Hope to get some help in the teardown this weekend...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Cut the body off the 75 Cordoba donor. Putting in frame connectors. Not as easy as I hoped. Not much to weld to without covering up access to the front of the rear spring hangers. Front Subframe was an easy connect, just had to remove the e-brake cable connection. Need to get this done so I can get on with sandblasting the 47 sheetmetal before it gets cold outside!
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I am using the entire drive train, suspension, brakes, wiring harness, A/C and floor pan from the chrysler. Tied the subframes front to rear. The 47 frame and worn out suspension goes to the scrap yard. I am planning a 5,000 mile trip in 2013 and I want all the amenities!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
This thing has been stalled for the last 2 months due to my attempt to do my own Sandblasting of the body.. Bought a Smith Compressor - Circa 1970 100cfm w/ buick V6 power to do the rust removal. After only 6 bags of sand and one door and one fender cleaned, the compressor quit. Parts for the machine are no longer available... Making my own air valve repair kit. In retrospect, I should have just paid the "professionals" $1100 and been ahead of the game. Hope to be back in the sandblasting mode in 3-4 weeks... and no, I do not plan on making this a business. Its tough to learn lessons at my age.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Selling the Buick V6 isn't likely as there is only one cylinder head, the other is the Smith compressor head, so its pretty much useless except as a compressor. Still hoping to get it back up to pressure again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Rented a rotary compressor from the local equipment rental yard. Awesome pressure, 185 cfm, already used 14 bags of sand and it looks like I will need more! Sand revealing more holes than I first imagined. Good thing I've got a wire welder... Regarding my replacement 360 motor, still can't find anyone who has seen the 1 cam cover plate bolt with a hole in it for my 360 motor. I hate to button it up without that. Starting to brace the body with new steel in the rockers, running boards, crossbrace above the differential and at the rear of the trunk. Also struggling with the window mechanisms in the back seat. There must be a trick to getting them out? Found my digital camera in the tool box. will try to post some new pic's soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
After sandblasting and a quick primer coat to keep the rust down I now realize I must replace the bottom 3" of most of the body sheet metal. It is all just too thin! I am real thankful for the local trailer and steel building mfgr (J&I). They have lots of steel shapes that work real well in replacing the body bracing on the car. I have to figure out how to put some of my pictures on this topic. It appears I will have to condense them a lot to post them and I am not sure they will have enough detail to explain some of my efforts/issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Getting into suspension issues with the cordoba chassis. The Cordoba springs are too long for the Plymouth body. The old plymouth springs are not usable. I would like to find a set of springs that would fit, but getting a list of springs available with dimensions has gone nowhere. My dad used to work at a place that repaired and re-arched springs. I wonder if I could find someone who could shorten the Cordoba Springs? I need them to be about 6" shorter. I can be flexible as I can adust the rear spring hanger connection to fit, as long as it doesn't go out too far. Next step is the power brake booster which is too close to the hood spring. I am concerned that the relocation may throw off the petal mount connection... I still haven't figured out how to attach pictures to these topics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
dana44 said:
Leaf springs are not shortenable (if that's a word). What you do is take the original long leaf with the eyelets in it and change the other shorter support springs. There is a centering bolt that holds them together, use a C clamp to hold the spring stack together, remove the bolt, then loosen the C clamp to get them apart. The shorter springs can be added to replace the worn leaves and the only real rule is do not allow the first spring under the eyelet leaf to be within an inch and a half to two inches of the eyelets. I have changed the leaves this way on several cars and it works fine. When the leaves are apart you can clean them and add new slider plates/insulation as needed to keep them from squeaking. Just make sure the replacement leaves are the same width, and replace the bushings in the ends, it helps in handling afterwards.
I got the spring change completed. Now the body placement is an issue. I decided to drop the body over the chassis a couple of inches. With the back tires centered in the body the front body mounts appear to be off about an inch? Or visa-versa with the front body mounts centered over the frame, the back wheels are not centered in the wheel wells? I don't know how to tell if the Chassis is off or if the body is twisted? There did not seem to be any damage with either car before the transplant started but I did not do any detailed check on the alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Dana 44, The statement you made about the 1.5" offset got me thinking. Is there a place where I can see diagram of the 1975 Chrysler body locator points? I have that for the 47 Ply (P15) and it is symetrical. I just wonder about the 75 Cordoba (donor car) - maybe my offset is not an issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Finally finished the wifes honeydew list and back on the Plymouth for a change! Got the body dropped 4" on the chassis straight (finally) and set the fenders, hood and doors in place for a test fit. More cutting required on the front frame, as it is sticking out in front of the fenders. No biggie, fire up the sawsall! I just hope I can get the Cordoba radiator to fit in when I am done? I would add some update pictures if I could figure out how?
 
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