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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone! I'm new here and thought I'd share my plans with you guys. I picked up a 64 signet last year and I'm starting
a kind of resto mod i guess. I'm gunna refresh the front suspension, the brakes and trans / rear fluids. the big thing i guess is
my decision to fuel inject my 225 slant. I'll be using megasquirt as my ecu and I'm even planning coil on plug via ford edis. Anyone who has any experience would be superhelpful but I've mostly just been doing it on my own. Dont know how to put pics up but if i figure it out I've just finished my intake maifold and got some images. Looking foward to seeing everyones projects!
 

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Really good looking car. I admire your ingenuity and your obvious talent. When finished and wrung out, you just might have a marketable product for any old six.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
tazdevil said:
Really good looking car. I admire your ingenuity and your obvious talent. When finished and wrung out, you just might have a marketable product for any old six.
thanks! That car in the pic is an ad i photoshopped to see the color i wanted. Although my car is the same, its a little more worse for wear lol!
 

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Nice. Will it be sequential firing injectors, or a tandem scheme?
 

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This is so awesome! That would be something I would love to have my valiant.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
i think i'll track the rest of my install on this forum. I'm using a method from doug dutra to put my injectors in a stock manifold.
Here is a list of some of the parts im using to build up my fuel injection system.

fuel injectors from a early 90s 3.8 buick
some plumbing adapters from home depot as bosses
dash 6 fuel rail extrution from ebay
throttle body off a 3.8 ford aerostar with tps and iac valve
gm air and coolant temp, and o2 sensors
megasquirt 2 diy ecu with diy relay box
early 90s ford fuel pump
ebay universal fuel pressure regulator

im also planning on a ignition swap as well using..

ford edis6 ignition module
ford coil on plug units
36-1 wheel adapted to my crank pulley
ford crank sensor

my biggest concern is completing this project on my tight budget with a new baby and house and of course a understanding wife who has her limits lol
the area im saving the most on i guess is my access to my work's machine shop and my being a journeyman machinist
im really excited for warmer weather so i can start working on the car itself and not just its parts lol. I'm much to delicate to wrench in the cold....
 

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Look forward to watching the progress!
 
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Heck, I'd be happy with a TBI unit on my slant 6.
Good luck with the project!
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Installed my fuel rail hold down and used it as a mount / junction for the pressure regulator, gauge and electronic pressure sensor ( not installed yet). And put
my manifolds together. Also put my O2 sensor in.






 

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As I've said, your work is masterful. I would certainly go through the engine, as much for reliability as for optimizing your setup. Slants have forged cranks, and can take much more compression. Custom or even off the shelf aftermarket pistons could get you up to 9.5 : 1, some good head work and you'd be able to use all the efficiency of your F.I system. Finish with some good split headers. pretty exciting project.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i was thinking of shaving the head like .050. but because of turbo fantasies i dont want to raise the compression too much. That strikes out headers too
because the stock manifold is practically turbo ready lol. Above all i want to retain stock reliability. how about a mild cam? i want the best gas mileage i can
get. Ive never taken a motor apart...can i get a stock size rebuild kit and just rebuild it myself ? And thank you guys for the awesome compliments i reall hope this works out!
 

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Fuel injection will REALLY help gas mileage. I'm very impressed with the work. If you can do that, you can rebuild the motor. There are stock kits out there for rings, gaskets, seals, etc.

There are a couple of tricks I've used on slant-sixes for better mileage. One is to raise effective compression very slightly by backing out the valve lash just a little. Instead of .010" intake and .020" exhaust, use .011" intake and .021" exhaust. Noise will be negligible. It keeps the valve fully closed just a hair longer in the cycle, raises power somewhat and doesn't seem to hurt gas mileage.

I also advanced the ignition timing. Back then I had breaker point ignition, with an add-on capacitive discharge ignition. Instead of the stock 2.5 degrees BTDC, I was running it at 10 degrees. But 5 degrees would probably be better, and keep it out of the pinging range all the time. I also replaced the advance weight springs with a kit that had lighter springs. This allowed earlier mechanical advance, which gave it more power and gas mileage in the lower RPM range.

I had a 72 Dart 4-door that got 18 mpg highway when I started. With my mods (and precise carb tuning), I routinely got 22 mpg highway, and occasionally 24 mpg (back when the speed limit was 55 mph).

I'm guessing that your work can get you easily into the range of 25 mpg highway, and maybe high 20s with careful driving.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
thanks for the info bob. what i was getting at with the rebuild is, if i get a stock size kit (no oversize bearings or pistons) can i just use that and rebuild the engine at home? Are the purpose of oversize bearings and pistons to be used when there is a failure and the block needs machining? My block spins free and only had 90,00 miles on it though it hasnt run in some time. The original motor to my 64 was a 170 and it is frozen soild i took it out of the car but havent broken it down yet. i'd like to focus on the 225 as it turns but i dont want to spend the money on a shop to rebuild it. Though i did get a quote for 1800 top to bottom rebuild at a local shop. i'd really like to do it myself if i can get away with it.
 
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