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can you bleed a new master cylinder with a vacuum pump using the farthest brake cylinder
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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A wheel cylinder under vacuum may draw air in past the rubber seal cups. Ambient and positive pressures will keep the cups flared out against the cylinder walls for a good seal.

The best way would be manually with a helper to push the pedal down and hold it to the floor while you close the bleeder screw.
You will note that the service manual mentions a special tool C-3496/C3494A to apply positive pressure to the m/cyl in order to 'push' brake fluid in ('pulling' fluid in with vacuum could also pull in air and you don't want that).

Follow the procedures described on p. 5-8 in the manual. While bleeding, don't allow the reservoir to run low and adjust up the shoes for a good pedal when done.

1965 Plymouth Service Manual
 
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. . . .can you bleed a new master cylinder with a vacuum pump using the farthest brake cylinder . . .
If you are thinking of using a vacuum pump associated with air conditioning system evacuation, then ImperialCrown is correct. That high vacuum would create an extreme pressure differential and you would suck air past the seals and probably empty the master cylinder reservoir before you realized what was happening.

I have successfully used a hand held vacuum pump to bleed one wheel cylinder when necessary. Let's say you have to replace the left front brake hose. You disconnect the flexible hose at the metal service fitting and brake caliper and install the replacement hose. The only place you will have air in the system is at the end of the left front metal line and onto the brake caliper.

I find it easier to use the hand operated vacuum pump device instead of taking the extra time to install a pressure bleeder to the master cylinder reservoir in this situation. Add fluid to the brake master, attach the vacuum hose to the bleeder port, open the port and apply a few inches of vacuum. Fluid and air will be drawn into the collection chamber and after a few seconds you will have this line segment purged of air.
 

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You used to be able to get a bleeder tank that you filled with brake fluid and attached to the top of the master cylinder. Added 4 psi to the tank and bled in proper sequence. Always a good bleed and no chance of an empty master cylinder as PSI was gone before tank was empty. Could do up to a quart at a time. Usually 1 to 2 cups did it.
 
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