Allpar Forums banner


1980 Views 2 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  dana44
I recently purchased a 71 Fury III equipped with a 360 CID engine. The previous owner stated that the car was a 27K original mile survivor and after inspecting the car and driving it, I don't doubt it. The car has a rear main seal oil leak and after speaking with several mechanics, the consensus of opinions is that the engine should be removed from the car to do the job properly. Most guys also recommend changing out the freeze out plugs while the engine is out of the car. Most shops will charge about $800 labor and about $100 for parts so I'm going to tackle the job myself. I'm not sure if it's easier to remove the engine and tranny as a unit or if the engine should be disconnected from the tranny while the tranny is in the car and left in place. Any thoughts or personal experiences? Thanks, Jim
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

1,333 Posts
Pulling the engine without pulling the transmission is not that difficult in the C-body. A buddy of mine repeatedly had his big block out of his '72 Monaco without pulling the transmission.

There are about half a dozen bolts holding the engine to the transmission, four bolts for the torque converter, the starter, and possibly a couple of brackets underneath. Sizes are generally in the 1/2" to 5/8" range, but regardless are standard SAE sizes.

I'm not 100% sure of the motor mounts, but they're probably not too bad either.

BE SURE to support the transmission underneath if you pull the engine this way, a ratcheting strap or a comealong work well for this.

· Premium Member
6,103 Posts
It kind of goes both ways. I like taking both together, and since she is a low miles survivor and a leaking rear seal, there are three or four seals you may want to replace for safety (since it would be out as a unit). The Transmission has two seals, front and rear, and then the rear main seal and the harmonic balancer seal. With the age, quick failure at this point is something that would be best dealt with all at once, not one at a time. Nothing more frustrating than fixing one thing and having another thing go bad, engine or transmission has to be pulled to get to that front seal on the transmission torque converter and is time consuming.
Other than described earlier post, transmission has a couple rear crossmember bolts at the mount, and the brace has four long bolts and nuts, then two cotter pins for the transmission shift linkage, a wire for the backup light/neutral lockout, and the transmission lines disconnected at the radiator, run a rubber hose between the two of them and clamp them on each end to prevent leaks, they are attached to the oil pan (usually), so take them out, keep them safer that way. Have a big pan under the tailshaft of the transmission after the yoke comes out, catch a majority of the fluid when it is at an angle, then, when it stops dripping a lot, put a plastic bag on the end and duct tape it tight. After that it is easy to break them apart on the engine hoist and clean things up if need be.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.