[cle73satellite]

i just bought a new satellite and it has a minute lifter tick after a long drive. im gonna change em soon, but i was wondering about if i should do the cam too, and how hard it is?

i would like to do something for a little more performance, but idk a good lift/duration for it. its currently all stock right now, so any ideas would be great. thanks

 

[dana44]

First off, which engine is it? If it is only doing the ticking when the engine is warm, it may actually be a weak oil pump causing the problem. Also, if you don't know any history of the engine you may pull the valve covers and find out you have a worn rocker arm or pushrod end squished. Dirty oil can cause this, along with low oil volume, the number 7 and 8 cylinders are the most likely to be the ones ticking, they get oil last.

 

[cle73satellite]

o i cant believe i forgot that lol. its the 318. the tick is pretty regular once it happens tho, and ive heard them quite often so i do believe it is the lifter. if it is a rocker or something else i will have to deal with it then. but for now im plannin on the lifter cuz its not really bad yet.
even tho, i still was mostly wondering about if i should do the cam with it, and if so wut cam?
thanks dana44

 

[TWX]

These engines are also susceptible to wiped cam lobes if too-modern a conventional motor oil is used, which lacks the heavy metals that is necessary for a hydraulic-flat-tappet cam and lifter set.

You can check this by pulling the valve covers, having someone start the engine, and watching the rockers for movement. You could find that some don't move much, that happened to the 360 in my '78 Cordoba. In my case I had to replace the cam.

Doing a cam on an engine in-car isn't very much fun, but is possible. Generally you have to pull everything in front of the engine short of the grille, so the radiator, AC condenser, water pump, timing cover, all of the accessory brackets that bolt to the water pump or timing cover, and while it's theoretically possible to pull the lifters without pulling the intake manifold, it's very difficult and is just much easier to pull the manifold.

 

[cle73satellite]

Ya I was told by my mechanic buddy who is a big Chrysler guy about the can issue, but he said he would be willing to bet its just the lifter in this case. We shall see tho. I just bought the lifters today and I think Tuesday night I'm gonna do the swap.

 

[dana44]

Yeah, things do wear out, even on the older and more durable engines like the 318. If going to the time, which TWX mentioned, a cam and lifter set, along with a new double roller timing chain (they last longer), is worth the effort. If going to this amount of work, it is also just as good an idea to refresh the whole engine, with rings, bearings, oil pump, valve grind. The engine is 40 years old and as such, putting too much stress with a new cam may be worth the extra cost of the new parts. There are engine kits which keep the cost down, and then you wouldn't have to worry about anything for many years instead of waiting for the next thing to be stressed with a new cam and lifters, then keeping them in order, etc., after having to pull the engine to rebuild the rest. If you are going to restore the car, or restify, decide if you want to keep the original 318 and redo it, part of that restore/restification process.

 

[cle73satellite]

true that. the current plan for me is to keep it driving good for the summer, then do all the body work this winter. then drive it next summer and do the engine work next summer. so for now i think im just gonna do the lifter swap on it, and keep her goin.

 

[dana44]

That's fine, stick a stock 340 cam out of a 1972 era grind and you will be good to go for a little more power without sacrificing anything at all.Do the timing chain, too, it is probably shot anyway.