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If all is in order, the ballast resistor is by-passed when you turn the key to the start position, so it at the moment is a non-issue in your no-start condition. This is so the coil can deliver a good "hot" spark during cranking. After starting, the ballast will keep it between 7 and 8 volts with the alternator charging system working properly. This keeps the coil from overheating.

The coil can be verified as being in working condition by supplying +12V to the + terminal, and with the help of a friend, hold the coil wire about 1/4 inch from the engine block and make and break a ground connection from the - terminal on the coil. each time the negative wire is taken loose, there should be a good spark. This is best done with it's wires taken loose, but leave it clamped in it's bracket.

I can assume the ignition module was checked at the local parts store on thier tester? That would be about the only way to really verify it's being good. If you were to hold the module's connector with it's terminals facing you, orient it so the tall side of the connector is to your left.

Aint I a good artist? :blush:
You should have 3 terminals on the left and 2 on the right. The left center terminal (1) should have battery voltage with the key on. If not, you may look for a wiring or ignition switch problem. The top left terminal(2) should also have battery voltage with the key on. If not, trace the wire back to the negative side of the coil, as this is the wire that the module uses to ground and unground the negative side of the coil. If you have a dual ballast, there will be a terminal (3) in the top right of the connector. If so, it should have battery voltage as well. If there is a wire, and no voltage, the auxiliary side of the ballast's circuit has a problem. If your module has a single ballast with only four wires in the connector, dont worry.

Your bottom left (4) and bottom right (5) terminals go to the distributor pick up plate. measure across the terminals and you should get about the same reading you did at the distributor plug.

As far as the pick up plate resistance, I have tested and seen them anywhere between the factory allowed 150 to 900 ohms and still not let the car start. Not very often but it has happened.

Hope something I said helped
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