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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can't get this running right, think I had a leaky rubber carb mount, replaced it. thought the throttle shaft was bad changed carb with a rebuilt one think it is just as bad, the parts house is gonna have another in a day or two.
Wont idle, has no low end grunt.
Not sure if it's related, but brake booster doesn't seem to be assisting, I'm gonna grab a gauge and check it
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Welcome to Allpar. If engine idle changes by pinching the booster vacuum hose with pliers, then the booster is likely leaking. Poor manifold vacuum will also mean poor brake assist.
Reman carburetors are a crap shoot nowadays. Some permanently bad ones are stuck in a revolving door. Many are approaching 40 years old. They are also rarely plugn'play and may need adjustments as long as your warranty isn't voided. Sometimes I have had to change out reman carbs 2 or 3 times before getting a good one.
Is cam and distributor timing OK? The 2-terminal coolant sensor plug may need unplugging before checking timing.
Is it rich or lean? How do the plug tips look (black or white)? If the idle straightens out by spraying a shot of carb cleaner over the air horn, it would be lean.
Is the choke free and snaps shut when cold? Does it gradually open as it warms?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well the kid at autozone is cool, he ordered two replacement carbs. Choke seems like it's good, wiring on the replacement is a little worrying. As two the timing guess I thought it was computer controlled. After i replace carb, I'll check it. As far as the low speed power loss, starting to suspect plugged catalytic converter. Thanks.
These lil bugers are complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well the kid at autozone is cool, he ordered two replacement carbs. Choke seems like it's good, wiring on the replacement is a little worrying. As two the timing guess I thought it was computer controlled. After i replace carb, I'll check it. As far as the low speed power loss, starting to suspect plugged catalytic converter. Thanks.
These lil bugers are complicated.
The plugs were maybe a little to pale, does vacuum contribute to lean condition?
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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What is up with the wiring? Are there more or less connectors than what you had originally? 1982 had federal and California that had different specs.

Timing advance is computer controlled, but you would still need to set the initial timing at warm idle with a timing light and the coolant temp sensor unplugged (the one for the PCM, not the one for the dash indicator.

Plugged converters will usually affect high exhaust flow, like when you are under acceleration or climbing hills. The low exhaust volume sitting at idle usually doesn't have a problem passing through the converter.
Does the element inside the converter rattle when thumped? If you suspect that the converter is bad, get it checked out.

A lean condition is too much air (vacuum leak?) or too little fuel (carb?).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Carb on left is replacement for what my 82 had in it on right, left has the integrated two wires. It will plug in to my harness, but leaves one connector from original with no place to go
 

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Two very different carbs. The older one on the right has a vacuum operated main metering enrichment, while the newer one on the left with the Gn/Tn wires has the O2 feedback system with the fuel metering solenoid.
The older one has a bowl vent, while the newer one does not.
The Rampage and Scamp were considered 'trucks' and didn't have to meet the same emissions requirements as the passenger car Turismo/Horizon and Charger/Omni. By 1982, all passenger cars had the O2 feedback system.
If you have the connector for the fuel metering solenoid in your vehicle harness, then you would want the newer style carb.
The choke plates on the older carb look bent, like they were pried open?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Makes me think the one I took off my 82 was incorrect. Everyone shows the one on left should be right for mine?
Dsmn, I'm so confused.
They couldn't get the numbers off my old one, as the reman guys grind them off
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Two very different carbs. The older one on the right has a vacuum operated main metering enrichment, while the newer one on the left with the Gn/Tn wires has the O2 feedback system with the fuel metering solenoid.
The older one has a bowl vent, while the newer one does not.
The Rampage and Scamp were considered 'trucks' and didn't have to meet the same emissions requirements as the passenger car Turismo/Horizon and Charger/Omni. By 1982, all passenger cars had the O2 feedback system.
If you have the connector for the fuel metering solenoid in your vehicle harness, then you would want the newer style carb.
The choke plates on the older carb look bent, like they were pried open?
Indeed they have been pried
 

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If the Rampage has the electrical connectors for it, then the one on the left would be correct.
Have you tried rebuilding the carb that you have?
Look for plugged idle fuel passageways? The old rubber isolators could break up and have pieces of rubber sucked into the carb where the isolator meets it at the base. This possible blockage will also affect low speed operation.
Do you have #'s in either of the 2 locations (see attached)? Is this an automatic without A/C?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's an ac, auto, after further study, I'm convinced the old carb is correct as it's the one that connect properly with the electrical connectors.
This whole issue started with vacuum leaks, I changed the rubber base plate for the aluminum, to try to fix it, no help. Took it to my mechanic, he put an egr and intake on it, no help. Said it was my carb base or throttle shaft.
Ordered the carb in photo...no help.
When I spray throttle shafts with ether, it revs with both carbs. Sprayed water on shaft of new one it sputters...I'm going nuts. Thanks for you patience
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If the Rampage has the electrical connectors for it, then the one on the left would be correct.
Have you tried rebuilding the carb that you have?
Look for plugged idle fuel passageways? The old rubber isolators could break up and have pieces of rubber sucked into the carb where the isolator meets it at the base. This possible blockage will also affect low speed operation.
Do you have #'s in either of the 2 locations (see attached)? Is this an automatic without A/C?
No numbers where image suggests
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As to rebuilding mine, love the idea, may try that next if someone can advise that all these throttle shafts leak a little. Not sure they make reaming tools and brass bushings for these lil 2 barrels.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Throttle shaft repair is more specialized and because of liability, many shops won't do it. The backside of the throttle blade screws are peened and would have to be ground down carefully in order to remove the screws without tearing the threads out of the aluminum shaft. They are one-time use screws.
If carburetor wear gets to the point of loose throttle shafts in their bores, it may be time to replace the carburetor instead. At 35 years old, there may be no 'new' carburetors out there.
Make sure that this is what is actually leaking.
The shafts are supported by rubber o-rings in the carburetor housing to prevent air or fuel vapor leaks. Some may have caps pressed into the ends to seal the shaft assembly. I couldn't find an actual image, but this is the main idea:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Of the two shafts, seems the one in the back, gets the wear.
Is the rebuild pretty straight forward?
May buy a kit a give it a try.
Once again, thanks
 

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Is the plug there in the vehicle-side wiring for the EFM?

Does the computer have 1 or 2 white connectors?:



Or is it the electronic ignition box without the computer?

 
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