[Moon]

Has anybody replaced an accelerator cable on this K type? I managed to get in a left hand turn lane and limp it off to a residential neighborhood at 10-15mph (OK I have the RPM set up 950 RPM). It snapped at the first 2 inches at the carburetor end where some antifreeze steam invaded the sheath and corroded just that small section;completely invisible)

I have both ends in my hand and the spec from Advance Awto data base (50.5 inches)---I measured the pieces and came up with 51.5 inches and figure that it stretched over the 28 years of use.

I am just going to try and reverse the removal procedure and the last step was pulling the broken long end out from the accelerator pedal mount point. I will set that end up and grease the cable a little and try to force it back through the neoprene sheeth through the firewall and up to the big bend at the hardware mount. If it won't go, I will try and push it off to the side of the firewall hole and free form it to avoid the tow charges.

Thanks for reading.

 

[ImperialCrown]

This is a 2.2L and not the 2.6L, correct?
The 2.2L cable is 50.5" and is used in the 83-84 K, E (stretch K) and S (minivan) bodies with the 2.2L carburetor.
The Chrysler part # is 5214574 (NLA). RockAuto shows them as part # Y169 (in stock).
Don't try to repair, modify or grease the cable. Replace it.

 

[Moon]

Thanks; I agree with your advice and had to wait until Tuesday to get a replacement from the local Autozone ($23.50 shipped). It is 50.5" as you mentioned and looks to be bolt on and back in business. I am just now waiting for my cousin to pick me up and take me to the suburb to where the car has been parked since Saturday. I hope nobody vandalized it.

 

[Moon]

Follow up: The part supplied by Autozone shipped from Meridian Mississippi "Pioner Automotive Industries LLC" with part number CA-8426 and cost $23.50 as stated above. It was plug and play. There is a big grommet at the firewall through which the cable passes. At the inside entrance on passenger compartment side of the firewall, there is a big "C" type clamp that comes off with a curved nose needle nose plier clamping on a ridge provided for grabbing and pulling sideways. It is a little uncomfortable getting a large upper body up into the position necessary to remove the clamp under the dashboard.

Be careful not to drop the clamp down the back of the carpeting here. With this removed the grommet and old cable remove easily. There is a split shot lead ball clamped to the accelerator end of the cable (3/32" diameter cable) and a cylindrical drum like plastic pliece with two stepped diameters that fits over this end after it is fit through the hole on the accelerator pedal lever. There is a hole running through the vertical axis of the cylindrical piece and the cable can be fitted through an opening running along the axis with the split shot keeper grounding against the end of the "drum" which has a ridge around the circumference. This piece fits through the hole on the pedal pivot action and the ridge keeps the piece in place through the hole as its diameter is bigger than the hole.

It will be clear how it works when you remove it. Study it at this time to convince yourself that this works like a charm and take seconds to hook up. Don't lose this piece; it didn't come with my replacement cable (and may have been pilfered from the box which had been opened and taped shut again at both ends).

The same advice applies when hooking up the cable to the cable bracket at the carburetor end. At this end there is a square plactic piece with some compressible ears that allows you to remove from the square hole mount in the bracket. This also is accomplished with a curved needle nose plier. Install is the reverse of removal. Simple and takes seconds also.

My new installed cable was a little stiff ("short") and the RPMs came up about 100 until I worked the carburetor lever pivot a little and shot some silicone lube on the action to convince it that it needed to go full range again after backing off a little due to original cable stretching.. After driving 50 miles, everything grooved in and the action is like from the factory with the idle RPMs adjustment exactly where I want it. I first tried backing off the idle adjust screw to get the RPMs down but found I was at the end of the adjustment so I turned it back down to make sure the electrical contact of the fuel solenoid ground was still in place and adjusted the action as I mentioned.