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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1985 lebaron 2.2 single point fuel injected lebaron. I need some help when the weather is below 70 the car is fine but when it gets past that it dies and it wont start until it cools down. when it does start up it sputters some days it is fine other days it isnt but it is when it gets hot. Could a bad egr valve cause this. I just replaced the distributor and cap and halls pickup. and some other things. i pulled the codes and the only one to come up was a purge solenoid and i tried that and it did nothing. If you guys have any ideas please let me know. Thanks
 

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EGR shouldn't keep it from starting. It would cause a rough idle and maybe a stall at idle.
What you've got to do is the next time it won't start is see if it will start with a little gas or starter fluid in the throttle body (careful, and it won't run long on it). And you need to see if you've got spark at the plugs. those tests would narrow down where you go next.
 

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Is the purge solenoid fault code still active?
You don't want an overly rich mixture on a warm engine. A cold engine can handle a rich mixture better than a warm one. Try pulling and plugging the purge hose for a temporary 'warm drive' test.
 

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Yes, I'd pursue the purge code.

Has it always done this since you've owned it? For how long? Any other repair or maintenance that coincides with this problem appearing?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i tried plugging the hose from the purge solenoid no change.i checked its getting gas when it stalls could the spark plug wires cause this? but if it were that wouldent it do it all the time i dont know what else to try
 

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What was the actual fault code? It sounds more fuel/emission system related than secondary ignition related. It's easier to fire a warm spark plug than a cold spark plug.
After a few moments of running the engine will enter closed loop (mixture control using the O2 sensor). Too rich or too lean mixtures can cause stalling. Are the plug tips white or black?
Fuel injectors themselves were known to leak into the venturi on these making an overly rich mixture. Have there ever been any O2 sensor fault codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The code is 31. I have changed the o2 sensor. I havent checked the plugs yet i will and get back to you. Could it be the pcm? Here is a list of every thing i have changed. Fpr, Fuel filter, Fuel injector, Spark plugs,distributor,halls pickup, Cap, rotor,logic module,map sensor, i took the car to dealer a little while ago i thought it was getting too much gas they tested it the gas pressure was correct they said it was spark so they put on cap and rotor and moved the distributor. It ran good but it always did sputter a little mostly when it gets hot, but now it is worse i tink because of the heat. Thanks
 

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Which hose on the purge solenoid did you plug? Canister to solenoid, or solenoid to throttle body? Disconnect its electrical plug and see what happens.

Sorry to see you shotgunned so many parts. This is what a good diagnosis should prevent.

You say you replaced the distributor and that they "moved the distributor". Does that mean they set the ignition timing? It could be set incorrectly, especially if they forgot to unplug the coolant temperature sensor before the adjustment. Do you have access to a timing light and know how to use it?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i dont have a timing light i pluged the hose that goes to the throttle body. i replaced the distributor after they moved it. I have been moving it around all i do is lossen the bolt and move it a little.
 

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OK, so you've messed up the ignition timing and all bets are off as to how it will run. Ignition timing cannot be set without a timing light. You'll either have to pay someone to do it, or get a timing light and use the following procedure:

Hook up the timing light to cylinder 1 spark plug wire and to the positive and negative terminals of the battery. Warm up engine fully. Unplug the coolant temperature sensor, which is the 2-prong plug at the side of the thermostat housing (don't break the latch off the plug). The engine may stumble or stall when you do this, if so, restart it. Also, it will trip a Check Engine light and the cooling fan will come on, don't worry about that.

With the engine at idle and warm, point the light at the timing marks, which are behind the rubber plug in the transmission bellhousing near where it meets the engine. There should be 8 tally marks, which designate 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 degrees before top dead center, from left to right when you are standing at the driver's side. The mark on the flywheel should line up with 12 degrees (2nd to last from right) when the distributor is rotated correctly. If not, slightly loosen the hold-down bolt on the distributor and very gently turn it clockwise to increase, counterclockwise to decrease. Tighten the bolt and recheck timing. Repeat until it's on 12. Then shut down, remove the timing light, plug in the coolant temperature sensor and place the rubber plug firmly back over the timing marks. Start it up and see how it runs.

The purge code may be a red herring, it may have tripped because the engine stalled or nearly stalled just when it was opening or closing the solenoid, and the computer recorded dropping voltage. The issue may simply have been a tuneup needed, and now the timing set correctly.

If your plug wires have more than 30K miles on them, replace them. The tips inside the distributor cap will be charred. Make sure to press the forked contacts in tightly until you hear a click.
 

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So what did you find out about the distributor? Is it fixed?
 

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No, fuel injection does not allow vapor lock due to the fact that the pressure keeps it in liquid form.

Has it always done this since you've owned it? For how long? Any other repair or maintenance that coincides with this problem appearing?

My next step would be to check the wiring harness for corroded or dirty contacts, frayed insulation, etc.
 

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Just out of curiosity, has it had a fuel pressure test when it's hot? If it was checked under conditions under which it works properly (i.e. in a cool garage), you're really not verifying anything except that the car works properly when it's cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
no i havent done pressure test when hot it is fine all week and then either thursday or friday it starts to sputter and wont start till it cools down about 20 minutes. it started doing this since i got it back from mechanic which was about 6 weeks ago i have owned this car for 2 years it was fine tell now.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Iam Not sure if the fan comes on i am going to try hooking up the fan to the battery so it is always on and see if that helps do you guys think the purge solenoid could cause this problem
 

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I wouldn't have the radiator fan on all the time. That is not a good practice.
If you had the evap purge hose off and plugged and it still stalled, then I don't think that the purge solenoid is causing the stalling.
 
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