[Bob Lincoln]

Yes, I'd pursue the purge code.

Has it always done this since you've owned it? For how long? Any other repair or maintenance that coincides with this problem appearing?

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Which hose on the purge solenoid did you plug? Canister to solenoid, or solenoid to throttle body? Disconnect its electrical plug and see what happens.

Sorry to see you shotgunned so many parts. This is what a good diagnosis should prevent.

You say you replaced the distributor and that they "moved the distributor". Does that mean they set the ignition timing? It could be set incorrectly, especially if they forgot to unplug the coolant temperature sensor before the adjustment. Do you have access to a timing light and know how to use it?

 

[Bob Lincoln]

OK, so you've messed up the ignition timing and all bets are off as to how it will run. Ignition timing cannot be set without a timing light. You'll either have to pay someone to do it, or get a timing light and use the following procedure:

Hook up the timing light to cylinder 1 spark plug wire and to the positive and negative terminals of the battery. Warm up engine fully. Unplug the coolant temperature sensor, which is the 2-prong plug at the side of the thermostat housing (don't break the latch off the plug). The engine may stumble or stall when you do this, if so, restart it. Also, it will trip a Check Engine light and the cooling fan will come on, don't worry about that.

With the engine at idle and warm, point the light at the timing marks, which are behind the rubber plug in the transmission bellhousing near where it meets the engine. There should be 8 tally marks, which designate 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 degrees before top dead center, from left to right when you are standing at the driver's side. The mark on the flywheel should line up with 12 degrees (2nd to last from right) when the distributor is rotated correctly. If not, slightly loosen the hold-down bolt on the distributor and very gently turn it clockwise to increase, counterclockwise to decrease. Tighten the bolt and recheck timing. Repeat until it's on 12. Then shut down, remove the timing light, plug in the coolant temperature sensor and place the rubber plug firmly back over the timing marks. Start it up and see how it runs.

The purge code may be a red herring, it may have tripped because the engine stalled or nearly stalled just when it was opening or closing the solenoid, and the computer recorded dropping voltage. The issue may simply have been a tuneup needed, and now the timing set correctly.

If your plug wires have more than 30K miles on them, replace them. The tips inside the distributor cap will be charred. Make sure to press the forked contacts in tightly until you hear a click.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

So what did you find out about the distributor? Is it fixed?

 

[Bob Lincoln]

No, fuel injection does not allow vapor lock due to the fact that the pressure keeps it in liquid form.

Has it always done this since you've owned it? For how long? Any other repair or maintenance that coincides with this problem appearing?

My next step would be to check the wiring harness for corroded or dirty contacts, frayed insulation, etc.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Let's go back, now that you've given us new information. The problem started after it was worked on by a mechanic.

Why was it worked on 6 weeks ago? What were the symptoms that you took it in for, what did they say was wrong, and what did they claim to have done? What were all the things they did or replaced?

When you say the distributor is fixed, is the ignition timing set per the procedure above, to 12 degrees before top dead center?

 

[Bob Lincoln]

they adjusted the disributor. they said it was fixed. It wasnt really it was much better but now it does the sputter backfire die thing.

So, logically, they made it worse by adjusting the distributor. You should get a timing light, or someone who has one, and check ignition timing to be sure it's set to spec. Since they made it worse, it's likely that they set the timing wrong. Please have it checked/set to spec and let us know how it is afterward.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

I just found a timing lite In my garage! But i dont know how to use it could you guys give me step by step instructions of how to use it?

Look back a page:

Posted June 29, 2012 at 02:14 pm

From what you describe, you just set your timing by hand to zero degrees BTDC, which is retarded by 12 degrees from factory spec. It is a wonder that it would run.

To approximate timing by hand, you should have turned the engine to 12 degrees before top dead center, then turned the distributor so that the rotor was directly under plug wire #1. But now that you have a timing light, set it accurately. I guarantee it will run much better, and we can go from there to deal with any remaining problem.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

You can try, it will likely be off by several degrees.

Did you hook up the timing light as chuzz described? The square inductive clamp goes over the #1 plug wire, the red battery clamp goes to the positive battery terminal and the black clamp to the negative battery terminal. Be sure no wires hit the fan or moving belts or other parts. With the engine running, squeezing the trigger and holding it will cause the light to flash each time #1 plug fires, and you aim it at the timing marks. With all that, the bulb does not flash?

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Focus on the ignition timing first. Set that correctly. From what you said, the timing light works. Remove the rubber plug from the top of the transmission bellhousing where the transmission meets the engine, you will see the flywheel with 8 tooth marks on the opening. On the flywheel is a notch cut at top dead center. When you trigger the light and point it down the hole, you will see that notch. Loosen the hold-down bolt on the distributor and turn the distributor slightly until that notch lines up with 12 degrees before top dead center. Snug the bolt down and re-check timing. Make sure that you follow the entire procedure above that I wrote, including disconnecting the CTS for the measurement.

You won't get anywhere fixing this car until the ignition timing is correct. It CAN and probably is causing most or all of your trouble.

And forget the air tube to the catcon. I ran without one for many years, no effect on emissions or catcon or exhaust life.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

It's normal for gas to come out under such pressure, so that's a good sign. That's why you are supposed to bleed the pressure off before servicing, by jumpering wires from the injector to the battery for a couple of seconds.

There is really no common cause for pressure to drop with the car hot, so I'd not worry about that until the timing is set, and you see how it runs after that.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Make sure they know enough to unplug the coolant temperature sensor during the procedure. It is a must, to get an accurate setting.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Unless the timing belt was very loose (and it would have to be so loose that it would flap and hit the timing cover), there's no way it's responsible for the timing mark moving all around. It sounds like your mechanic either did not unplug the coolant temperature sensor as required, or he loosened the distributor hold-down bolt so much that it was floating around while he checked it. With the bolt secure and the CTS unplugged, it should be steady. Might be time to find another mechanic.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Yes, but it will only float 1-2 degrees at most. If it's all over the place, the mechanic is doing something wrong.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Get it anywhere between 10 and 14 and it will be OK. TDC will make it run horribly, if at all. Just loosen the bolt enough to turn the distributor with some friction, it should not be so loose that it 'walks' by itself with the engine running.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

I lined the timing up again today making sure to get tdc at correct position. It runs good but we will see if it still does the same thing tomorrow.

I'm not sure what you mean by this. Are you setting the timing belt to the correct position, or are you setting the ignition timing to TDC? It needs to be 12 degrees before TDC.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

If the return line is clogged, it can cause problems with fuel regulation.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

A dent in your fuel tank could have affected the fuel pump pickup and its check valve.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Fuel pumps have a check valve, which is a one-way valve, to prevent drainback of the pump's prime and thereby ensure easy starting.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Your vintage may have the return line going to the sending unit, whereas in later units it goes to the fuel pump itself. So you might have damage to the return. If the dent is big enough to touch something inside, you might consider replacing the tank, pump and sending unit.