OK, so you've messed up the ignition timing and all bets are off as to how it will run. Ignition timing cannot be set without a timing light. You'll either have to pay someone to do it, or get a timing light and use the following procedure:
Hook up the timing light to cylinder 1 spark plug wire and to the positive and negative terminals of the battery. Warm up engine fully. Unplug the coolant temperature sensor, which is the 2-prong plug at the side of the thermostat housing (don't break the latch off the plug). The engine may stumble or stall when you do this, if so, restart it. Also, it will trip a Check Engine light and the cooling fan will come on, don't worry about that.
With the engine at idle and warm, point the light at the timing marks, which are behind the rubber plug in the transmission bellhousing near where it meets the engine. There should be 8 tally marks, which designate 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 degrees before top dead center, from left to right when you are standing at the driver's side. The mark on the flywheel should line up with 12 degrees (2nd to last from right) when the distributor is rotated correctly. If not, slightly loosen the hold-down bolt on the distributor and very gently turn it clockwise to increase, counterclockwise to decrease. Tighten the bolt and recheck timing. Repeat until it's on 12. Then shut down, remove the timing light, plug in the coolant temperature sensor and place the rubber plug firmly back over the timing marks. Start it up and see how it runs.
The purge code may be a red herring, it may have tripped because the engine stalled or nearly stalled just when it was opening or closing the solenoid, and the computer recorded dropping voltage. The issue may simply have been a tuneup needed, and now the timing set correctly.
If your plug wires have more than 30K miles on them, replace them. The tips inside the distributor cap will be charred. Make sure to press the forked contacts in tightly until you hear a click.