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Let's go back, now that you've given us new information. The problem started after it was worked on by a mechanic.

Why was it worked on 6 weeks ago? What were the symptoms that you took it in for, what did they say was wrong, and what did they claim to have done? What were all the things they did or replaced?

When you say the distributor is fixed, is the ignition timing set per the procedure above, to 12 degrees before top dead center?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I took it in because i thought it was getting too much gas. The day it happened it used alot more gas than usual. So i took it to my mechanic e changed the things i said earlier he tested gas pressure he thought it was too high. It wasnt because the dealer checked it and it was right on, they said it was spark related so they changed plugs, cap and rotor. and they adjusted the disributor. they said it was fixed. It wasnt really it was much better but now it does the sputter backfire die thing. i Since then have put in a disributor and halls effect.The only other thing that happened before all this was there is a hose that hooks into the side of the cat converter that broke so the first day i just pinched the hose then two days later it used more gas so i changed the hose and o2 sensor to no effect. so then i took it to mechanic. If you guys need any more info please let me know
 

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+1 on IC's warning. I've experienced it firsthand, the car will not warm up and you get lousy mileage if the fan runs constantly. Is it a time related thing (you mentioned it does this on Thursday and Friday) or is it temperature related?

The hose is an air injection pipe for the catalytic converter. It helps the reactions that take place inside the cat, and, since you have no downstream O2, shouldn't affect the way the car runs, only emissions. Theoretically, the injector could get "too much" gas and cause the engine to run rich, but I'd imagine this would start throwing O2 sensor codes as the ECU tried to pull it back into line. I still think you need to test the fuel pressure when the car stalls.
 

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they adjusted the disributor. they said it was fixed. It wasnt really it was much better but now it does the sputter backfire die thing.
So, logically, they made it worse by adjusting the distributor. You should get a timing light, or someone who has one, and check ignition timing to be sure it's set to spec. Since they made it worse, it's likely that they set the timing wrong. Please have it checked/set to spec and let us know how it is afterward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I didnt hook up the fan but i know its working. if i test the fuel pressure when its Hot.what would cause it to drop or increase gas pressure ? Could the fuel pump still send too much gas? Its temperture related because it did it today. its about 95 here. I Tried setting the distributor by getting top dead center of number 1 cylinder and placing rotor under number one spark plug wire on cap. Would that work or do i need a timing lite? When i took it to dealer it was better but it had the sputter problem just not as bad because it wasnt hot enough. Thank you guys for all your help
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
It is old but it should work it is a rac power timing light model number 217.287. is it possible to upload pictures on this website then you could see what it looks like? I looked down my carb today it is a little black inside doesnt that usually mean too much gas?
 

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While I'm not familiar with your timing light, the way I've always used one it very simple. You should have two cables with alligator type clamps on them. One will go to the positive post on your battery and the other to your ground cable. When new, the one for the postitive connection would have had a red insulator on it and a black one for the ground. The other cable would have a clip that would simply connect around your #1 spark plug wire. After connecting these correctly, disconnect your cooling temp sensor near the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. Remove your timing plug on the back of the engine and find your timing marks. Use a piece of soapstone or something else to mark the correct degree mark and the timing mark on the transmission. Loosen your distributor lock nut and start the engine. Then rotate the distributor until the marks line up. Snug the lock nut, turn the car off and reconnect the temp sensor. Start the car again and re-check your marks to make sure they still line up. If not, repeat the procedure until they do. That's pretty basic and I hope it helps you.
 

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I just found a timing lite In my garage! But i dont know how to use it could you guys give me step by step instructions of how to use it?
Look back a page:

Posted June 29, 2012 at 02:14 pm

From what you describe, you just set your timing by hand to zero degrees BTDC, which is retarded by 12 degrees from factory spec. It is a wonder that it would run.

To approximate timing by hand, you should have turned the engine to 12 degrees before top dead center, then turned the distributor so that the rotor was directly under plug wire #1. But now that you have a timing light, set it accurately. I guarantee it will run much better, and we can go from there to deal with any remaining problem.
 

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You can try, it will likely be off by several degrees.

Did you hook up the timing light as chuzz described? The square inductive clamp goes over the #1 plug wire, the red battery clamp goes to the positive battery terminal and the black clamp to the negative battery terminal. Be sure no wires hit the fan or moving belts or other parts. With the engine running, squeezing the trigger and holding it will cause the light to flash each time #1 plug fires, and you aim it at the timing marks. With all that, the bulb does not flash?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
The bulb flashes but i cant see any thing it is a really old light from like the 80s. Maybe i will go and buy one. If i set it by hand how do i know where the distributor should go? The car will idle fine when it has the problem its when its under acceleration It acts up.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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The 2-wire coolant sensor near the upper radiator hose connector has to be disconnected in order to accurately set ign timing.
It will turn on the 'ck eng' or 'power loss' light, but you can erase the fault code after you are done.
Edit: I was under the impression that it was stalling at idle. If it is hesitating or sagging under acceleration, does the engine actually shut off and you have to restart it?
Set the timing first.
This could also be a plugged cat. The air pipe that broke off supplies oxygen to help the cat process the HC and CO. Without the fresh air source, the cat can get overworked, meltdown and plug up.
 

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This can't be done by ear. You need to buy or borrow or pay someone to set timing.
 

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Focus on the ignition timing first. Set that correctly. From what you said, the timing light works. Remove the rubber plug from the top of the transmission bellhousing where the transmission meets the engine, you will see the flywheel with 8 tooth marks on the opening. On the flywheel is a notch cut at top dead center. When you trigger the light and point it down the hole, you will see that notch. Loosen the hold-down bolt on the distributor and turn the distributor slightly until that notch lines up with 12 degrees before top dead center. Snug the bolt down and re-check timing. Make sure that you follow the entire procedure above that I wrote, including disconnecting the CTS for the measurement.

You won't get anywhere fixing this car until the ignition timing is correct. It CAN and probably is causing most or all of your trouble.

And forget the air tube to the catcon. I ran without one for many years, no effect on emissions or catcon or exhaust life.
 
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