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question,1) my 200sx AC was working then the dryer blew a seal and sprayed I'm guessing refrigerant or oil not sure if the oil would come out of this or just refrigerant ? I've replace the dryer with a new one, second question 2) do I need to drain the oil from the condenser, I never removed the lines to the condenser. and last question 3) if I wanted to put a vacuum on the system does any parts stores rent the equipment to do this?
 

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. . . my 200sx AC was working then the dryer blew a seal and sprayed I'm guessing refrigerant or oil not sure if the oil would come out of this or just refrigerant ? . . . .
Refrigerant would vaporize and there would be no trace of it. Oil is carried by the refrigerant and that would leave a slick residue. Is oil present on the receiver - drier and surrounding area? I would expect that to be the case.

. . . I've replace the dryer with a new one, second question 2) do I need to drain the oil from the condenser, . . .
It appears from your description that the system over pressurized and vented refrigerant. The pressure relief valve may be incorporated in the receiver - drier? A close inspection would vallidate this statement.

The system lost some refrigerant oil but it is difficult to determine the quantity. Typically a receiver-drier would hold 1 ounce of refrigerant oil. You do not need to drain any oil from the condenser.

However several important issues on this air conditioning system. Since it is a 1986 model (30+ years old vehicle) it was equipped and designed as an R12 refrigeration system. Has the system been converted to R134a refrigerant? Different refrigerants, different oils used.

Why did the system develop such high pressure to vent refrigerant? Is there some internal failure in the system ( such as dessicant rupture) that blocked the high pressure, discharge side of the system? Did the cooling fan that draws air across the condenser fail and allow temperature and thus pressure to exceed safe upper limits?

. . . if I wanted to put a vacuum on the system does any parts stores rent the equipment to do this? . . .
You would have to check with individual retail auto parts stores in your area if this equipment is provided on a rental basis. It is probably on a store by store basis.
 

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it stopped cooling and we charged it with r12 and it was on a gauge and the right amount went in. worked ok for 2 days and stopped that when I found the oil all over the dryer and area, so would you think I would have to drain all out of the system. I'm keeping it r12 my ac guy has a license and I have 6lbs and it only takes 2lbs on a empty system
 

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. . . . it stopped cooling and we charged it with r12 and it was on a gauge and the right amount went in. worked ok for 2 days and stopped that when I found the oil all over the dryer and area, . . . .
From your description did you use a manifold gauge set and monitor both discharge and suction pressures while charging the system?.How did you determine that the proper amount of refrigerant was added? Did you just add 2 lbs of refrigerant and think that was proper? You have no indication if something is causing the system to over pressurize (highly likely).

Since you replaced the receiver - drier there is air and moisture in the system which requires evacuation. After evacuation then add about 1 lb of refrigerant and monitor pressure. Both suction and discharge should be below operating pressure. If discharge is abnormally high with low refrigerant charge then there is a restriction in the system.
 

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So you think the ac guy over charged it, well since I did the replacement do you think I should drain and blow out the system, our do you think that it should be ok to vacuum it down and have another ac guy charge it , thanks for your help just trying to get the ac fixed the car is in mint shape with only 85k miles
 

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So you think the ac guy over charged it, well since I did the replacement do you think I should drain and blow out the system, our do you think that it should be ok to vacuum it down and have another ac guy charge it , thanks for your help just trying to get the ac fixed the car is in mint shape with only 85k miles
You need to determine the reason for the first failure of the system and loss of cooling. An assumption was made that it was low on refrigerant and you had refrigerant added. This led to excessive refrigerant charge and very likely caused the over pressurization, loss of refrigerant due to venting, and oil around the receiver- drier. The first failure of cooling may NOT have been caused by low refrigerant charge.

At this point I will assume that the system has had the receiver - drier replaced and is charged with R12 refrigerant. R12 refrigerant is a rare and expensive commodity today and you want to minimize any waste ($$ wise and legally). Discharge and suction pressures should be monitored but are highly dependent on direct sunlight on the interior of the car and ambient air temperature. As a general rule with engine idling and air conditioning on maximum setting suction pressure for R12 system should be in the range of 20 - 35 psi and discharge pressure in the range of 180 - 250 psi. It would be best if detailed service manual information for a 1986 Nissan air conditioning system could be found. This would have more accurate suction and discharge pressures expected for sunlight and ambient air temperature conditions. Suction and discharge operating pressures will give knowledgeable technicians clues as to where a problem lies in the system. You could have a restriction in the system or a stuck metering valve at the evaporator which is causing an issue.

You need to pose these questions to the air conditioning repair technician working on your vehicle. If you cannot get good answers then you should seek another repair facility and before employing ask how the air conditioning problem will be addressed. Diagnosis needs to be done first. Do not throw parts, procedures or refrigerant at the problem and hope for a solution.
 
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