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was driving car and the Power Loss light came on then went off, so what does this mean ????
 

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Tried the key method and the only code that came up was a 35 ( which is the electric fan ) and it is not suppose to bring up the power loss light .
 

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Code 35 Radiator fan relay open or shorted

I don't have a reference that says whether this trips a CEL, but it could be a relay bounce or sticking.

Or, could be that you counted the pulses of the light wrong, and it was really a code 12 (three pulses) and a code 14, or 23, or 32, or 41 (five pulses). You should also have gotten a code 55 - End of Message.

How did the car behave?
 

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was running fine and then power loss light came on for a second it seemed like the car was going to stall but then kept running also about a month ago was sitting at a light car stalled about 3 times but turned the key and started and ran fine after that. read on a couple of other sites that it could be the pickup ( hall effect ) in the dist that could be at fault.
 

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You might want to check the codes again to see if it really was a code 12 and 14. Code 14 is out of range or lost electrical signal from the MAP sensor, and could occur if the MAP sensor plug's connection is loose or intermittent. That would cause an instantaneous change in the air/fuel mixture, from which it might recover before stalling. Or it might have flooded and that's why it stalled 3 times before recovering.
 

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geraldg said:
where is the map sensor located ?
Look on the passenger's side inside fender or around the passenger's side strut tower under the hood for a module that has both a vacuum line attachment and an electrical plug. I had an 87 LeBaron non-turbo and that is where it was located on that car.
 

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Yes, late 86/early 87 was when they moved the MAP from inside the car to the passenger firewall.
 

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I was under the impression that the Hall (pickup) liked to fail warm. I don't know if that failing while the engine was running would throw a code, but it would on cranking. I would go after the MAP first, it sounds like you're having fuel problems. If the Hall fails, the engine shuts off instantly, just like someone turned the key off.
 

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OK.Code 23 - Air charge temperature sensor out of rangeThis is a small thermistor (variable resistor) that is mounted in the throttle body, and it's used only on cold engine starts. It senses the cold air and adds a little extra bit of fuel. There are two wires running to it. Check the wires to be sure it's connected and the connection is clean. If it fails, it should cause no harm.
 

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Bob Lincoln said:
OK.Code 23 - Air charge temperature sensor out of rangeThis is a small thermistor (variable resistor) that is mounted in the throttle body, and it's used only on cold engine starts. It senses the cold air and adds a little extra bit of fuel. There are two wires running to it. Check the wires to be sure it's connected and the connection is clean. If it fails, it should cause no harm.
Hi Bob
I know you know alot about these cars, I have a question I have 4 brand new bosch super spark plugs the number is 7522 ( new number is 7922 ) would these fit this engine ?
 

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Amazon lists it as fitting, but superseded by another part (doesn't say if it's 7922). But I have found that Bosch plugs give a slightly rough idle in these cars and don't perform well. The best plugs for these engines are the OEM - Champion RN12YC copper plugs (a.k.a. Champion 404).
 

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OK now here is a dumb question, does this car have 2 ( one ignition and doors one trunk ) or does it have 3 one ignition,one doors and one trunk ? I ask because I only have 2 one fits the ignition ( it is broken but still works ) doesn't work on doors and one for trunk ?
 

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You're talking about keys, right? In that vintage, for most Mopars, there was one key for the ignition and doors, and one for the glovebox. The trunk key would be either the glovebox key or the ignition/door key, not sure which in your case.
 
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